Crane Attack!!

[hlb]

A few weeks ago Long John attacked Mucky with his crane. I think Mucky won cos she smashed his crane to bits with only superficial damage owing to the back stanchion being lifted out. Trouble is it got dragged out a few years ago when a thoughtfull crew member threw the rope over the guard rail instead of under and dragged on it against a F8 gale.

Anyway result is I've got about 6mm holes in the deck, so to big for the self tappers. Last time I got away with plugging the holes. Do I just fill them with that white plastic padding stuff, or wot... Or do I sue the bloody crane driver..../forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

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Haydn

 

[Talbot]

can you get to the underneath, if so you could consider through bolting. Plastic padding will not be strong enough to rebed the stanchion. I would consider one of these new epoxy mix sticks that mixes up rather like a stick of plasticine, and force that into the holes (matchstick makes quite a good tool for tamping it in, then you should be able to drill and retap.

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[deborahann]

No. Cant get underneath else I'd have bolted it down. Need super sreangth though cos it's the anchor for the rails.

<hr width=100% size=1>deborah on delft.
Nothing to do with Mucky Farter or hlb in drag

 

[hlb]

UUpps!! that wont me cos I'm the one that can shpel!!

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Haydn

 

[BrendanS]

Ah!, not you realise the probs I had repairing silly little self tappers that held windscreen on, and still haven't got around to fixing permanently.

Oldsaltoz gave me this advice, though I've still to do it (this winter maybe):

=========

G'day Brenan,

As a rule screws in Fibreglass is not a long term solution; if it is at possible replace the screws with bolts and Nylok nuts, after filling the holes as detailed below.

Many decks have a filler of foam or balsa end grain wood, so the screw has only a single layer of glass to grip, any movement at all will result the hole enlarging and the screw becomes loose.

If you have no option but to use screws, remove the windscreen and re drill all the holes though the upper skin only; make the holes the same size as the windscreen track so they will not show when the track is replaced.

Put a small Alan key or bent wire into a variable speed drill and use his to remove the deck fill material. You need to create a larger hole under the top layer of glass to form a plug, as deep as possible.

Fill the holes with a mixture of epoxy resin and micro fibres, they look like white dust, mix to a consistency of honey and slowly fill each hole ensuring no air is trapped; if you can not get micro fibres you can cut some fibreglass cloth into very very small bits that will flow in resin.

Let this cure for 24 hours and drill new holes just a little less than the screw shank in the threaded area, measured between the threads.

This will last a lot longer than just a bare screws into glass and longer than just resin.

I have made some assumptions here, so if your situation is not as detailed, please send more information.

I hope this helps. Andavagooweekend........




<hr width=100% size=1>Me transmitte sursum, caledoni

 

[Chris771]

Haydn,

A method for the same problem I have used in the past, for holes which cannot be accessed from below, is as follows:-

(Obviously one for each screw hole)

Decide what size bolts you need to go through the stanchion base M5, or M6. For each hole get a Hex headed setscrew about 10-12mm longer than you need and a pair of stainless nuts, plus a slotted head setscrew of the correct length. (If you have access to welding equipment and can put both nuts onto the bolt and weld them together so much the better, as you gain thread length). Enlarge each hole so that it is just a little too small for the nuts to fit into, if you can get a good 50mm depth so much the better. Clean out holes with cottonbud swab and acetone to ensure good adhesion. Well away from the fibreglassing area coat the entire threaded length of the setscrews (just a fancy name for bolts with thread along the entire length) with thick consistency silicon grease (vaseline at a push, not KY!) and screw so that the tip is about 6mm through the nuts. Now with a cloth or tissue wipe all the excess grease off the nuts and setscrew threads. You do not want grease on the inside of the nice acetone cleaned and degreased holes or the epoxy will not adhere. Make sure that all grease is off your fingers and setscrews.

Now use a hammer to drive the setscrews with nuts attached fully into the holes leaving the setscrews at least 10mm proud of the deck. Now carefully remove the setscrews, taking great care not to touch the sides of the holes on the way out, or they will get contaminated with grease.

Next mix your epoxy and microfibresand fill the holes one at a time, using a plastic cotton bud shaft to ensure that you tamp it well down and get all air out. Now one at a time, replace the setscrews, wiping away all the excess epoxy which is forced out. Screw the setscrews into the nuts till you have about 10mm standing proud.

Leave the epoxy to set for 24 hours. Now you will appreciate the benefit of the hexagon heads as you use a ring spanner or socket to rotate them out. If properly greased, this will act as a release agent and they will unscrew all the way out without difficulty. Rock back and forth on the spanner if reluctant to start turning so that you do not snap the screw. Once all the setscrews are out they can be replaced with slotted head screws of the correct length to hold down the stanchion.

Now you will have lovely strong anchors for the stanchion, with thread along the entire length of the epoxy and also the pair of stainless nuts at the bottom to ensure it is now several times stronger than it was originally.

You can also use slotted screws and stanchion onto the excess epoxy when initially doing the job if you are sure that you never want to move the stanchion again.

I prefer to make it removable just in case....

This approach can be used for a variety of fixing points where enhanced strength is required.

Why did I use Hex Setscrews which were too long? If they are not properly greased and will not come out, at least you can cut off the heads and use domed nuts and washers to hold down the stanchion, that's why. It pays to think ahead.

Hope this helps.

Chris

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[Talbot]

Would suggest that this <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.iboats.com/products/7/5219_evercoat_epoxy_stick_.html>epoxy stick</A> would do the business

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[hlb]

So my raw plugs must have done a good job then. By the way is it not time I got them back!!!

Loads of good advise. Suspect it will be all down to whats available when I get to Plymouth on Wednesday. Or what I can beg or borrow. Dont seem to matter how many tools I take, always got the wrong ones!!

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Haydn