Could someone advise on washing expensive “Goretex” jackets salopettes and drysuits

A Guy who works for a well known mountaineering clothing company said basically wash as little as possible but hose off with fresh water regularly. He added that no matter what product you use for washing or reproofing you will never regain the waterproofness of the original. I think he may be right.

David MH
 
A Guy who works for a well known mountaineering clothing company said basically wash as little as possible but hose off with fresh water regularly. He added that no matter what product you use for washing or reproofing you will never regain the waterproofness of the original. I think he may be right.

David MH

Now this is getting interesting. I believe I do own quite a number of that company’s products, and I have owned and used some of them regularly for more than twenty years. I think I trust them.

But climbing gear never seems to get as dirty as sailing gear does. Illogical, but that’s my experience. Maybe because climbing is a matter of standing up or lying in a sleeping bag and sailing is a matter of sitting crawling and being chucked about in contact with unfriendly surfaces. (Climbing gear does not come with reinforced backsides and knees!)

So if we want breathable sailing kit, we have to resign ourselves to it getting dirty and having to buy new pretty often.

Hmmm...
 
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If you can tell me where the washing instructions on my H-L drysuit are, I will buy you a pint.

I've just checked and it isn't actually a requirement, but is very strongly advised. However, it IS a requirement to have a label stating the materials and their percentages. I am sure that the manufacturers can provide instructions either through their web-site or through a customer support line. Musto certainly do; I have experience of asking their customer support how to remove diesel from one of their jackets (unfortunately the answer was that you can't!). Henri-Lloyd have a contact page (https://www.henrilloyd.com/contact-us), though I must admit that their web-site seems a bit minimalistic!
 
My grandfather had a bottle of something called Dabitoff which was very good for spot cleaning oily stains. I inherited the little bottle but unfortunately it's now run out.
 
I think back in the day, Dabitoff was simply dry cleaning fluid or Carbon tetrachloride.

However, I think it would damage Goretex as it says 'no dry cleaning'. But it disappeared from our lives in that formulation as the fumes were highly damaging to your liver, they were also highly damaging to the atmosphere as a greenhouse gas and if it got hot enough (I believe like leaving your dry cleaning in the sun in a closed up car in summer) if was transformed into phosgene gas.
 
I think back in the day, Dabitoff was simply dry cleaning fluid or Carbon tetrachloride.

However, I think it would damage Goretex as it says 'no dry cleaning'. But it disappeared from our lives in that formulation as the fumes were highly damaging to your liver, they were also highly damaging to the atmosphere as a greenhouse gas and if it got hot enough (I believe like leaving your dry cleaning in the sun in a closed up car in summer) if was transformed into phosgene gas.

Crikey! I remember that stuff, and the smell of carbon tet drifting out of dry cleaning shops.
 
I've just checked and it isn't actually a requirement, but is very strongly advised. However, it IS a requirement to have a label stating the materials and their percentages. I am sure that the manufacturers can provide instructions either through their web-site or through a customer support line. Musto certainly do; I have experience of asking their customer support how to remove diesel from one of their jackets (unfortunately the answer was that you can't!). Henri-Lloyd have a contact page (https://www.henrilloyd.com/contact-us), though I must admit that their web-site seems a bit minimalistic!

I took your advice and H-L replied very promptly:

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for the enquiry and glad you are enjoying the product. Normally there is a wash label in an inner pocket or if the dry suit has braces inside its around there.
However as rule all waterproof products can be washed on a 30 degree wash using non bio washing powder. Leave it to dry hanging in a fairly warm room.
Also a rinse with fresh water after each wear will help prolong the life of the product and making sure the item is fully dry before being packed away.
Hope this helps answer your question.
Kind Regards
Henri Lloyd Customer Services Team



I never thought to look at the braces. I owe you a pint!
 
I took your advice and H-L replied very promptly:

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for the enquiry and glad you are enjoying the product. Normally there is a wash label in an inner pocket or if the dry suit has braces inside its around there.
However as rule all waterproof products can be washed on a 30 degree wash using non bio washing powder. Leave it to dry hanging in a fairly warm room.
Also a rinse with fresh water after each wear will help prolong the life of the product and making sure the item is fully dry before being packed away.
Hope this helps answer your question.
Kind Regards
Henri Lloyd Customer Services Team



I never thought to look at the braces. I owe you a pint!

You're on whenever you're at Titchmarsh!
 
I've just re-done my Goretex suit. Wash as delicates at 40 deg C using soap or detergent. I use Woolite, but have used Nikwax Techwash before with the same result. Let drip dry and If water doesn't bead off once dry then I spray with Nikwax TX Direct, spread around and leave to dry. This is all according to garment labels and Nikwax instructions. I've been doing this over 20 years reliably.
 
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as others have said we used wash the by hand in the bath with washing up liquwid and let them drip dry the proplem is it takes some time to dry them complete I never trusted the tumble dry in case of shrinkage . regards andytwo.
 
Nikwax system is the best and most economical. Use it for all my outdoor gear. Originally bought it for doing kayak fishing drysuit so had to be up to the job.
 
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