Cost of Saildrive Diaphragm replacement

kevinmo

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I am thinking of buying a yacht with a 50hp Volvo MD22 (I think) and Saildrive. I would like to know what I should plan for in terms of the cost of having the Saildrive diaphragm replaced which I believe should be done every 7 years.

Hope someone here has had experience of this and can produce the numbers.

Kevin.
 

AIDY

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depending what's replaced and who does it between £700 - £1200 pounds. some people will quote you for a new metal locating ring and engine mounts.

I did mine myself in the end for £200 that's just parts. it's not a hard job if you are practical... did mine over two weekends took the saildrive home to do in the week. spent most of the time repainting the engine bits.

did mine for a bit of peace of mind.. bit of a waste of time really did not need replacing even after 10 years
 
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Diaphragm kit itself costs in the order of £130ish from someone like keyparts.

If you do it yourself - there is very little additional cost other than some time

If you pay someone to have it done - then I have heard stories of £1000 +

Probably largely depends on the access you have to the engine and sail drive- and how far (if at all) the engine has to
be taken out

I have reasonable access - and would reckoon on a day to take it out - take it home split the leg to change the seal - clean it all up - and then a day to put it back. Actually having done it a couple of time and having good access - its more like 0.5 a day each way
 

fdmarsden

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Re: Life of Saildrive Diaphragm

I had to remove my Nanni Saildrive, due to gear engagement problems caused by fitting the wrong type of single lever control.

Went round LIBS, (two years ago) checking out the five year/seven years life stories.

Results:-

Volvo
'we said five years when they were first made, increased later to seven; we now have no recommendation, as the only replacement we ever sold was due to accidental damage'

Nanni

'No regular replacement recommendation'

Beta

Same

Yanmar

'Indefinate life'

As the one I removed had no signs of any deterioration, it was put back.

However, the two clamping rings (cast aluminium) were both broken, due to excessive tightening, replaced them with laser cut rings of 316 S/S for less cost than the replacement aluminium ones
 
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The engine mounts on the cat I helped with, were the non-safe type. i.e. if the rubber metal joint goes the engine moves around independent of the boat.

In our case 2 of them had gone on one engine and all on the other. Since these are the only thing holding the engine from ripping the diaphragm out I would quote to replace them also.

I would also make sure the new ones are the captive type so that any failure is not a sinking situation.
 

DaveS

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Re: Life of Saildrive Diaphragm

The Volvo comment is very interesting indeed and would certainly seem to tie in with most people's actual experience, i.e. the "old" seal looking just as good as the new one.

But, given the fears often expressed on this form of insurance companies wriggling out of claims if something isn't maintained "by the book", has anyone seen an official statement in writing from Volvo that a change at 7 years is no longer necessary?
 
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Re: Life of Saildrive Diaphragm

No - though I did try that route when I bought the boat. Surveyor said Volvo recommended 7 year replacement, so insurance insisted in having it done. Neither would accept that volvo no longer recommend this - mind you I didn't have anything in writing.

Of course the old one looked just like the new one once scrubbed in a bit of warm soapy water /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

widgeon

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I had mine replaced by the local Volvo agent for £1000 in March this year. I was confident that I could do it myself, but SWMBO said that she would never set foot onboard again if I did!

Twelve years old, but in entirely serviceable condition. Peace of mind can be costly.
 

mobeydick

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Re: Life of Saildrive Diaphragm

Maintenance schedule still says 7 years "by authorised Volvo dealer". So if you do it yourself, insurance company may still have a loophole....
 

DaveS

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The gearbox must be split from the leg to replace the seal - it's clamped between gearbox and leg. In theory the gearbox could remain attached to the engine, but in practice the job is a lot simpler if, as others have said above, the combined gearbox and leg is lifted out and most of the work then done at home.
 
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