Coppercoat, ultrasonic etc.

[ip485]

I was just reading the current thread on ultrasonic antifouling.

I find myself returning to - do I coppercoat, do I add ultrasonic or do I just get on with another couple of coats of tried and tested and haul in two years time.

The trouble I find is every time I read these threads someone says "works for me, big improvement" or "complete waste of money".

It was good to see the recent report on ultrasonics by one of the mags with two control boats. At least you feel that is a fair test and should be persuaded by the results, but then it doesnt stack up with some of the reports on the current thread.

With a bit of a scientific background I just find it odd how different the results seem to be. I fully appreciate it depends on the type of fouling, and there are a fair few variables but I still wouldnt expect such a dramatic range of results.

Its all very odd and leaves one thinking of snake oil which would be ok were it not for the fact that we would all like a better solution but at least in the case of Coppercoat it is a pretty serious financial committment to something that may not working.

- sorry, not trying to reignite the debate - well it works for me, just venting my frustration!

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I will just reply re my comment that it worked for me on a longish keel V34. Two self completed Jaycar units, I took great care in potting the transponders and fixing them to the hull. They operated effectively 24 / 7 over 9 months including a spring, summer and autumn. The boat when lifted had just a light coat of slime which wouldn't have needed a pressure washer to remove. But do not expect it to protect acoustically isolated parts like props or outboard legs. If there is anything to say it is there are no shortcuts to the installation and I suspect it has to run permanently.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Coppercoat works for me BUT it was applied to a new boat that had never been in the water.

The prep to get an old boat ready for CC and dried out might be dissuasive.

OTOH, the joy of just lifting it, washing off the slime, and putting it straight back in sure beats paint rollers and toxic gloop once a year.

 

[oldvarnish]

With a bit of a scientific background I just find it odd how different the results seem to be.

I'm afraid this is no place to come for research results that will satisfy a scientist.

These places are like pubs. Someone rolls through the door, orders a pint, and says ' hey, anybody 'ere got that Coppercoat stuff?'

He then half listens to all the replies and draws his own conclusion.

That's the best you can hope for. There's nothing on here that will satisfy the Fellows of the Royal Society, but there's a lot of interesting opinion.

 

[KAL]

Some more fact/opinion FWIW:

1. I've never lifted out a completely clean hull.
2. There's always been slime.
3. There've always been a few barnacles.
4. There has always been a mussel colony on the prop shaft tube.
5. The prop has always been fouled; covered in crustaceans and grot.
6. The hull was significantly worse at the end of last season than ever before.
7. The only variable changed was the lack of availability of Jotun Seaforce30 last spring.
8. I had a small amount of Seaforce left in a tin, which I painted in one coat on a few random patches.
9. Those patches were completely clean on lift.
10. Our boat is 35 this year. She needs the old antfoul layers taken off as it is now too thick.
11. I loathe antifouling, especially the preparation beforehand and a renewal of the epoxy coat won't do any harm.
12. We're therefore going for copper-coat. It will be professionally applied and properly abraded prior to launch.

Not particularly scientific, but a reasoned decision...

 

[snowleopard]

Coppercoat et al are a good solution provided you accept the limitations. They are more sensitive to faulty application than conventional types, they are less effective in the tropics and they are killed completely by drying out in mud (but then so are all antifouls). The evidence for their efficacy is pretty extensive.

Ultrasonic antifouling works according to anecdotal evidence but you need to add up the amp hour requirements which make it feasible only for marina users with power supply - that's a simple calculation and not a subject for debate unless the manufacturer's specifications are lies.

 

[pathfinderstu]

Have tried them both at large expense in a high fouling area probably as high as it gets, Fethiye and the only thing that works for the season is the most expensive top of the range antifouling paints unfortunately and that is only for 6 months not up to 2 years for three coats as they say. so horses for courses. The annoying thing is the tecknoledgy is there in paints for hugely better results but its all down to money in high places.