I applied Coppercoat in 2014. The boat had been out of the water all winter, but not undercover. The old antifoul was removed by professional grit blasting. As others have said, applying it isn't difficult - but mixing and stirring the resin was a full-time job. We had three people; two applying it and one mixing and stirring. Barring a beard at the waterline, we get little growth; mainly slime. I have never abraded it, and the one time I was considering it, AMC said not to. Their reasoning was that as long as it was a nice green colour, it was working and didn't need further attention. Rust had started to come through on the keel, and last year that was antifouled, but the hull is fine.
I think most failures arise from not keeping the resin very well stirred before application. It is absolutely essential, as the copper rapidly falls out of suspension.
We did use the AMC supplied thinner; I think that it would have been difficult to apply otherwise.
Whether you need to abraded may well depend on the level of fouling. When we first sailed to the Caribbean in 2004 we had Micron Extra antifouling. It was totally useless. We had to lift out and replace with an antifouling tailored for the Caribbean. When I went to lift a tin of the antifouling off the shelf in the shop I couldn't believe how heavy it was. Totally different stuff and way more toxic. We sail predominantly in the Caribbean. All antifouling has to work hard in that environment. If you sit still and don't move antifouling seem to perform less well than when you are moving a lot. I think this explains a lot of the differences people experience with the same a antifouling the same area when for one it doesn't work and for another its fine. If we don't move much our CC grows more slime and red blotchy growth. That then becomes a base for barnacles if left long enough. Its why we scrub once a month as it super easy to do when it's just slime. We found Scrub Dadies an excellent scrubber that is easier to use and more effective than the 3M type pads under waterAgree with every word of this.
Seven years and you haven’t had to abrade (except pre first launch).
You may need to in the next year or two but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Anyone else have usb microscope images before/after burnishing?Some experience here about burnishing >
Slightly off topic but I am not convinced that slime comes off after a good lively sail. A power boat moored a few berths from me seems to confirm this. He re- engined his boat but it would hardly get up off the plane. An engineer was sent to investigate . Despite a short period of relaunch and fresh antifoul, he found lots of slime on the hull after rocking the boat about. The boat was held in the slings and the slime was removed. The boat then was able to get on the plane easily. The owner now regularly uses a proprietary type of manual hull scrubber. Perhaps it has something to do with the boundary layer ? My own yacht seems to confirm this. The only bits that come off are the "hairy" bits on the waterline area after a sail.Whether you need to abraded may well depend on the level of fouling. When we first sailed to the Caribbean in 2004 we had Micron Extra antifouling. It was totally useless. We had to lift out and replace with an antifouling tailored for the Caribbean. When I went to lift a tin of the antifouling off the shelf in the shop I couldn't believe how heavy it was. Totally different stuff and way more toxic. We sail predominantly in the Caribbean. All antifouling has to work hard in that environment. If you sit still and don't move antifouling seem to perform less well than when you are moving a lot. I think this explains a lot of the differences people experience with the same a antifouling the same area when for one it doesn't work and for another its fine. If we don't move much our CC grows more slime and red blotchy growth. That then becomes a base for barnacles if left long enough. Its why we scrub once a month as it super easy to do when it's just slime. We found Scrub Dadies an excellent scrubber that is easier to use and more effective than the 3M type pads under water
I use a Scrubbi brush every now and again. You can see that the slime etc. comes of very easily.The beauty of coppercoat for us is that you can get pretty physical with the brush. Most other antifouls get scrubbed off with the slime.
If you move a lot you still get slime but not as prolific. We also don't get the other stuff that comes from not moving such as the red and brown hairy growths that are common in the Caribbean. Move a lot and we can reduce cleaning to about every 6 weeks instead of 4.Slightly off topic but I am not convinced that slime comes off after a good lively sail. A power boat moored a few berths from me seems to confirm this. He re- engined his boat but it would hardly get up off the plane. An engineer was sent to investigate . Despite a short period of relaunch and fresh antifoul, he found lots of slime on the hull after rocking the boat about. The boat was held in the slings and the slime was removed. The boat then was able to get on the plane easily. The owner now regularly uses a proprietary type of manual hull scrubber. Perhaps it has something to do with the boundary layer ? My own yacht seems to confirm this. The only bits that come off are the "hairy" bits on the waterline area after a sail.
Hope you're enjoying yourself Sam.My coppercoat does not perform anywhere near as well as the manufacturers claim & I have had endless discussions on this forum. I have had an earlier version by Wessex ( copperbot, NOT coppercoat)that did not work. 2 applications of Coppercoat that only partially works & requires jet washing after a few weeks & another make( forgot the name) which I have on my Squib which lasts about a week longer than professionally applied Coppercoat on other Squibs sitting on adjacent trots. That still rarely lasts 4-5 weeks before heavy slime build up.
But to get a real answer to your question on how effective it is I suggest that you go to the area where your boat will be predominantly used. Then go & speak to the people who do the jet washing.
I have to have my boat lifted mid season and have had it done in St helier ( where the ex lifeboat captain Billy hibbs told me it was useless) in Cherbourg where the bloke shrugged & waved his hand as much as to say "not worth the effort", I Dover where it got the Thumbs down. In Inverness where it got the thumbs up - possibly due to the fresh water in the Cally canal. In Shotley where they say it is not as good as antifoul paint & quote owners going back to conventional products.
as far as I am concerned this year it was useless with 2 inch weed under the hull ( not the waterline) after a few weeks whereas the Shogun applied to the keel ( I am now getting rust) was pretty good in comparison. I think that the hot weather may not have helped. I do not know.
However, I am going to have another application soon as after 8-10 years I have abraded most of it & I want to have it applied by a professional co. rather than do it myself.
I will do it because I want to avoid the hassle of antifoul painting which makes me ill every year& the cost of haul out is compensated by the paint & gear cost if one ignores the cost of coppercoat.
The mid season scrub gives me a nice clean hull as well
Even if you are disappointed with it , it's much better then AF when all you need to do is haul , wash and back in rather then that sanding and re AF plus the cost .My coppercoat does not perform anywhere near as well as the manufacturers claim & I have had endless discussions on this forum. I have had an earlier version by Wessex ( copperbot, NOT coppercoat)that did not work. 2 applications of Coppercoat that only partially works & requires jet washing after a few weeks & another make( forgot the name) which I have on my Squib which lasts about a week longer than professionally applied Coppercoat on other Squibs sitting on adjacent trots. That still rarely lasts 4-5 weeks before heavy slime build up.
But to get a real answer to your question on how effective it is I suggest that you go to the area where your boat will be predominantly used. Then go & speak to the people who do the jet washing.
I have to have my boat lifted mid season and have had it done in St helier ( where the ex lifeboat captain Billy hibbs told me it was useless) in Cherbourg where the bloke shrugged & waved his hand as much as to say "not worth the effort", I Dover where it got the Thumbs down. In Inverness where it got the thumbs up - possibly due to the fresh water in the Cally canal. In Shotley where they say it is not as good as antifoul paint & quote owners going back to conventional products.
as far as I am concerned this year it was useless with 2 inch weed under the hull ( not the waterline) after a few weeks whereas the Shogun applied to the keel ( I am now getting rust) was pretty good in comparison. I think that the hot weather may not have helped. I do not know.
However, I am going to have another application soon as after 8-10 years I have abraded most of it & I want to have it applied by a professional co. rather than do it myself.
I will do it because I want to avoid the hassle of antifoul painting which makes me ill every year& the cost of haul out is compensated by the paint & gear cost if one ignores the cost of coppercoat.
The mid season scrub gives me a nice clean hull as well
Have I indicated otherwise. I just want people to understand that manufacturers claims are not all they seem to be & many have found to their cost.Even if you are disappointed with it , it's much better then AF when all you need to do is haul , wash and back in rather then that sanding and re AF plus the cost .
Hey my posting was a polite reply just saying it's better then AF, even if it's not working how you would like it To doHave I indicated otherwise. I just want people to understand that manufacturers claims are not all they seem to be & many have found to their cost.
But do not take my word. Do as I suggest & ask the people who have to wash it down. They see far more than an individual owner & generally have no axe to grind.