Contact breaker location on Quick electric windlass

[clipperman]

My Quick windlass has heaved in the anchor chain bar tight without crew intervention and now the winch will not operate either in or out. I am told this may be due to the contact breaker operating to save the motor from burn-out. However I cannot find the contact breaker to reset it. Any idea where it should be located please? Any other info along why the winch has failed would also be appreciated.
Thanks
Clipperman

 

[duncan99210]

The circuit breaker is likely to be near the switch panel, push button or small lever to reset. The probable cause of the winch malfunctioning is likely to be a short circuit in the control wiring which led to the winch trying to take in chain. The circuit breaker then tripped which is why your winch isn't working just now. Once you've identified and reset the circuit breaker, you'll need to sort out the problem with the control wiring, which is probably down to either a sticking switch or a broken wire.
For further help in sorting out the wiring you'll need to let the forum know what sort of switches you have.

 

[Neeves]

Solenoid switches can lock open or closed - but I have no idea if a, or your, Quick has one. They are easily rectified but it can be a continuing problem. You might have 2 problems, the first that triggered the auto-retrieve and secondly a locked solenoid. If you re-set the circuit breaker the solenoid might be locked. Unlocking the solenoid will not necessarily solve the fundamental issue. Solenoid switches are easily disassembled (but they are 'sprung' so watch out as to how it is assembled). Before we replaced ours I used to hit it hard, with the heel of my hand, to make sure it was 'free' to operate. There might be a more professional approach than belting it!

Duncan's comment should be taken seriously. I once helped an owner find his yacht after an identical problem, his windlass retrieved the anchor and set the yacht adrift (I happened to be coming into the anchorage and 'met' his yacht drifting out, he was ashore at the time).. 2 nights later his yacht caught fire and sank (he ended up in hospital, smoke inhalation) - though the fire and the auto retrieve might have been different issues - I'd moved on by then

edit, the circuit breaker would logically be with other circuit breakers for the yacht. You ought to have a bank of them (all neatly labelled ). But if the windlass is a later addition then the circuit breaker can be anywhere on the wiring for the windlass. Logically (but its a yacht and that's not a sensible assumption) it will be in the dry (so not in the windlass locker) but on the power circuit for the windlass. The windlass should have its own wiring and they should be hefty cables. Follow the cables 'back' and you should find it. It might, incorrectly, share a circuit breaker - see if you can find one that has tripped. It might not have a circuit breaker, which is why you cannot find it! , it needs to be added - and it might be the solenoid switch that is stopping it operating).

I'm interested in the outcome. close edit

Jonathan

 

[sailaboutvic]

My Quick windlass has heaved in the anchor chain bar tight without crew intervention and now the winch will not operate either in or out. I am told this may be due to the contact breaker operating to save the motor from burn-out. However I cannot find the contact breaker to reset it. Any idea where it should be located please? Any other info along why the winch has failed would also be appreciated.
Thanks
Clipperman

Hi
Quick have a circuit breaker has Duncan have said , it look very much like the type you would have in an house , normally house near the switch board if you follow the red lead back it will lead you to it .
Before resetting it find the problem or at less remove the chain from the windlass .
There a good chance the problem lies in the control unit .
Good luck .

 

[Neeves]

The fact Quick, should, have a circuit breaker does not mean it was installed

What do you mean by 'control unit'? Normally if the 'up' switch does not work, the 'down' switch can still work - or that's how our Muir and Maxwell operate as they are separate circuits and wires. If the solenoid is stuck - nothing works. But I don't know Quicks (but thought most of these devices were very similar).

Jonathan

 

[sailaboutvic]

The fact Quick, should, have a circuit breaker does not mean it was installed

What do you mean by 'control unit'? Normally if the 'up' switch does not work, the 'down' switch can still work - or that's how our Muir and Maxwell operate as they are separate circuits and wires. If the solenoid is stuck - nothing works. But I don't know Quicks (but thought most of these devices were very similar).

Jonathan

You're quite right J , it may not be installed , he will soon find out if he trace the red lead back , on the other hand it could be a black lead if it wasn't installed correctly ,
(Control unit ) ? ! I should had said , hand control unit or up down switch also known as hand remote unit .
"Normally if the 'up' switch does not work, the 'down' switch can still work - or that's how our Muir and Maxwell operate as they are separate circuits and wires. "
Yes but , if the up part of the unit had a fauit , that would had been the cause of the chain being bar tight and jamming , which would had trip the breaker ( if one was fittered ) so by resetting the breaker all he will be back to sq one , why I suggest removing the chain from the windlass before resetting .
Hope that makes senses .
By the way clipperman , the solenoid is a sealed unit if it an quick make unit , you won't be able to get to the points ( contact) unless you break the casing.
Once again good luck .

 

[Neeves]

Sailaboutvic,

The solenoid on a Muir is accessible - but when you open it up if you are not careful the springs throw the pieces everywhere - and then you do not know how to put it back together correctly. Good to know the Quick is sealed. I'm not sure on Maxwell, I'd need to check but I think you can get into it.

I've never had a hand remote

The rest makes sense and good sense.

Jonathan

 

[duncan99210]

The Quick winches, from a rapid glance at their on line manuals, all use a double solenoid control box (that is, up and down have their own solenoid) and thus three power cables (up, down and common return). Their remote control/deck buttons/up/down switches all also use three wires. Given the symptoms described by the OP I suspect that either the up solenoid has jammed in which case a new solenoid box is required or there's a short circuit in the low current control wiring to the switches, leading to the uncommanded winching.
There is another option for the OP to check about the protection for the winch. We don't have a circuit breaker but have a large capacity ceramic fuse to protect the winch, which is well buried behind the saloon cushions. He may have that rather than an easily resettable circuit breaker.

 

[bigwow]

Our Quick windlass has the circuit breaker mounted next to the up/down switch. It has the little lever switched off all the time unless being used when it's switched on.

 

[clipperman]

The circuit breaker is likely to be near the switch panel, push button or small lever to reset. The probable cause of the winch malfunctioning is likely to be a short circuit in the control wiring which led to the winch trying to take in chain. The circuit breaker then tripped which is why your winch isn't working just now. Once you've identified and reset the circuit breaker, you'll need to sort out the problem with the control wiring, which is probably down to either a sticking switch or a broken wire.
For further help in sorting out the wiring you'll need to let the forum know what sort of switches you have.

To duncan99210; Many thanks for the advice! Once this rain stops I'll follow your instructions and see if I can get it working again,
yours gratefully, Clipperman.

 

[catmandoo]

I have a Quick windlass . I fitted the recommended thermo/ electric circuit breaker near the Battery selection switch for the engine so even if the circuit breaker is jammed shut I can still isolate the power by putting the selector switch at off .
First step then would be to cut of power and then disconnect either faulty circuit breaker or up /down solenoid , take to test bench and apply 12V to test each one to find if faulty and then replace . If not that then check wiring for faults wwith continuity tester . one for testing burglar alarms quite effective can be set for normally open or normally closed to give a warning buzz and red light

 

[clipperman]

Dear Jonathan,
thank you for your helpful post I shall follow up and let you know the outcome when the rain here stops! Wettest December on record in UK, January now almost as bad. Lucky you in the sun!
Chris

 

[Neeves]

I've mentioned I'm not familiar with the Qiuck windlass, but they, horizontals, all seem to have the same basic features. When you get back to the boat and you are digging around in the anchor/windlass locker - have a look at the state of the electric motor metal casing (if it does not need a coat of paint you are very attentive (or its new)) and maybe think about looking at the interior of the gearbox. (Some?) new models have a sightglass on the gearbox, so you can see the condition of the oil. We were enjoying the weather between Xmas and New Year and were up the coast. I helped someone else look at their gear box, he and partner had come down the coast. He was deploying his anchor, 40lb, and chain by hand, because the windlass did not turn and the anchor deployment took multiple attempts as he could not get it to set (that's another story - but he was providing entertainment and then concern for his anchor stability). We took the gearbox apart, it was lubricated by seawater and finely ground mud (the bearings were very corroded). It was a 1999 yacht and I suspect the windlass not touched since installation - so they suffer amazing abuse, and still work - but will give up eventually.

Disassembly for servicing can be easy (if its been installed correctly). They unbolt and 'sort of'' fall apart (everything slides down the shaft). If the bolts are corroded insitu - it will be a nightmare (think blow torch and angle grinder).

Jonathan

 

[Laundryman]

If it's a horizontal windlass the top of the gypsy may have a winch handle fitting sunk into it. If you get a winch handle and turn it anti clock it will disconnect the clutch and free off the chain. I fitted the safety cut out on mine next to the operating solenoid. Telling us the make and model of boat may help you further. You should perhaps put more info in your profile page. Good luck. Alan