Piers
Well-Known Member
The VDO engine instruments on the fly bridge have always suffered with condensation. Any suggestions to clear this problem?
Condensation in Fly Bridge instruments
- Thread starter Piers
- Start date
byron
RIP
I have never suffered this, however what about putting one of this little bag thingies inside. The one's you get when you buy anything electrical.
Piers
Well-Known Member
Re: Silica
Can't get inside the instruments themselves. But there is a large void beneath them. 1m x 1m x 0.7m. I suspect it would take a large bag of silica gel(?) to accomplish the task, and it would need drying out regularly!
It has been suggested that (for example) a small green house heater is installed. Seems a heavy handed method to me.
I always remember that saying - was it Brunel - "unless the answer is simple, it's not the answer."
Can't get inside the instruments themselves. But there is a large void beneath them. 1m x 1m x 0.7m. I suspect it would take a large bag of silica gel(?) to accomplish the task, and it would need drying out regularly!
It has been suggested that (for example) a small green house heater is installed. Seems a heavy handed method to me.
I always remember that saying - was it Brunel - "unless the answer is simple, it's not the answer."
peterandjeanette
Well-Known Member
Hello Piers
Had much the same problem on Picard - the F33 - and now on the Phantom. Seems a common complaint as it has been posted here before.
The only solution I have found - other than plenty of fresh air on a dry day - is to point SWMBO's hair dryer round the back of the instrument if this is accessible. However, this can be a bit like fog, the moisture only goes back into the air and gets deposited again when they cool down. So it's only a short term measure.
I would also be interested to hear any other remidies, short of stripping the instrument down, drying out and re-sealing.
Peter
Had much the same problem on Picard - the F33 - and now on the Phantom. Seems a common complaint as it has been posted here before.
The only solution I have found - other than plenty of fresh air on a dry day - is to point SWMBO's hair dryer round the back of the instrument if this is accessible. However, this can be a bit like fog, the moisture only goes back into the air and gets deposited again when they cool down. So it's only a short term measure.
I would also be interested to hear any other remidies, short of stripping the instrument down, drying out and re-sealing.
Peter
Wiggo
Well-Known Member
Re: Silica
leave the instrument lights on permanently?
leave the instrument lights on permanently?
mjf
Well-Known Member
As wiggo says run the instrument lights when you are using the boat. I find this works.
pheran
Well-Known Member
I presume the condensation is occuring because the moisture-proof sealing of the instrument is faulty. I cured this on my previous fly-bridge boat by removing the instruments, thoroughly drying them out (a month in the airing cupboard over winter) then spraying them with an automotive damp-proofer, the sort that sets like a lacquer that we used to have to use on the distributors on Minis. Can be a longish job if you have to do the front as well as the back as you need to mask them up, but it seemed to do the job and was still working when I sold the boat.
ps the instruments do need to be dried thoroughly. Using a hair-dryer to speed things up is OK but tends only to move the moisture around and it settles again once things cool down.
ps the instruments do need to be dried thoroughly. Using a hair-dryer to speed things up is OK but tends only to move the moisture around and it settles again once things cool down.
tcm
...
Good ideas here.
Obvioulsy the main aim is to reduce the humidity in the dials, and stop damp air re-entering. This is going to be easier with dismantling and using air cupboards and dehums, then various sealants before refitting.
The slightly over-enthusiastic option but still on board a boat might to dry it out in a dehummed cabin overnight, then perhaps heating and a bit of hairdryers to warm it up, and then "pump out" the damp air in the unit with a pela pump into any orifice of the thing and the whole thing and pipe wrapped tight in clingfilm to suck out an damp air still in the unit. Then on with the sealing concoctions.
Taking the boat to the med might be another cure.
Obvioulsy the main aim is to reduce the humidity in the dials, and stop damp air re-entering. This is going to be easier with dismantling and using air cupboards and dehums, then various sealants before refitting.
The slightly over-enthusiastic option but still on board a boat might to dry it out in a dehummed cabin overnight, then perhaps heating and a bit of hairdryers to warm it up, and then "pump out" the damp air in the unit with a pela pump into any orifice of the thing and the whole thing and pipe wrapped tight in clingfilm to suck out an damp air still in the unit. Then on with the sealing concoctions.
Taking the boat to the med might be another cure.
pelicanpete
Well-Known Member
Don't use the boat in or near water /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
tcm
...
that would be even better, he's just asking for trouble really.
mjkinch1
Well-Known Member
...I have the same problem with my flybridge Raymarine unit, the combined plotter/radar device also gets condensation in - and the boat is located in Majorca, so moving the boat from the UK to clear the condensation hasnt worked so well /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I think that you are right, the seal has broken at some point, and no matter how many times you dry it out, as soon as you get a wide temperture variation, it will happen again. I had a watch with a similiar problem, and it always came back.
I am hoping the extreme temp variations of 6c to 15c in March will go away soon, and everything will dry out proper /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Martyn
I think that you are right, the seal has broken at some point, and no matter how many times you dry it out, as soon as you get a wide temperture variation, it will happen again. I had a watch with a similiar problem, and it always came back.
I am hoping the extreme temp variations of 6c to 15c in March will go away soon, and everything will dry out proper /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Martyn
MedDreamer
Well-Known Member
Welcome back, are you having withdrawal pangs?
Was the boat dry internally Martyn?
Was the boat dry internally Martyn?
Piers
Well-Known Member
I am told the instruments are not sealed "to let them breath". If only they were sealed using an inert gas....
tcm
...
ah, praps it's only the VDO (Vaguely DOdgy) ones?
Piers
Well-Known Member
Anyone know a contact tel number for VDO?
Ships_Cat
Well-Known Member
I am told the instruments are not sealed "to let them breath".
Is the case with many instruments, except, of course, the weather facing side should be watertight.
The answer is usually simple, leave them turned on whenever on the boat. If the instrument is a powered one (ie has power to it and electronic gubbins inside) then just have it turned on, if not powered (ie is just a moving coil meter, for example) turn the illumination on.
We leave our instruments on for at least 24 hours continuous run a week when able and never have a problem. We also give all other electronics such as radios even if inside the boat a run, when able, weekly.
John
Is the case with many instruments, except, of course, the weather facing side should be watertight.
The answer is usually simple, leave them turned on whenever on the boat. If the instrument is a powered one (ie has power to it and electronic gubbins inside) then just have it turned on, if not powered (ie is just a moving coil meter, for example) turn the illumination on.
We leave our instruments on for at least 24 hours continuous run a week when able and never have a problem. We also give all other electronics such as radios even if inside the boat a run, when able, weekly.
John
