It’s a pain this, isn’t it. We’ve got the same problem, replacing approx 10mm teak so the recesses are far too deep for any fake teak (and we’d prefer to use a cheaper variety from Treadmaster that’s only 3mm).
On second thoughts you're right. I was more concerned with how flat it will end up but as you say I could this away from the boat. Its just a lot more hassle than bonding a pre made panel if I can find locate something suitable. It's definitely on the short list though;-)
On the face of it that looks ideal, assuming there aren't any bonding issues. After all the "teak" is PVC and I imagine the adhesive will stick as well to this as it does to Gelcoat. I'd want to check this out first though. Nice and cheap too
I don't have a picture I'm afraid but it's standard production boat stuff. The existing 6mm decking panels (teak veneer on plywood) used for the cockpit seat and sole sit in a recess / rebate in the fibreglass and I want to ensure the new faux teak panels which are 5mm high sit a mm or two above the surrounding fibreglass so water doesn't pool on them
This is what I'm now thinking. I can also use the PVC as the template for cutting the "teak". I like the simplicity of using spacers but I think it would be difficult to ensure the surface is both level and well bedded down without using thousands of the things as the "teak" is quite flexible. The extra adhesive will also cost as much as the PVC.
On reflection, glass probably does make more sense than fairing compound only, especially given the large/flat area(s). Having recently had to lay up glass on hatch surrounds and inside recessed window frames on the coachroof, I’ve built a bit of confidence protecting/masking so as not to ruin surrounding gelcoat. I reckon a few layers of 650g or - better still - thick combi mat would raise the level neatly.