Clevis pins substitute?

[ducked]

Shackles are 'different' and split pins or rings don't come into the equation - so Thinwater's mention and my detail is a bit of thread drift. For shackles, anchor shackles, I'd be happy with Loctite - but Loctite really is not a replacement for a split pin - different requirement. Loctite can replace wire (or used as well as wire)

For a discussion on split pins/rings then a simple bolt and nut comes into the equation - with the nut being a Nyloc nut or secured with Loctite.

Jonathan

Not recommending this, but 4WIW, which yáll can decide for yourselves, I seem to have done OK using polythene sheet on threads as a nyloc substitute.

On, for example, a lugnut, the (optionally greased) polythene comes off like a thread formed shed snakeskin.

This started as antiseize and threadlock substitute (both of which I found very hard to find in Taiwan) on cars and motorcycles. Havn't so far done it in a marine context, but it might have utility as a barrier between disimmilar metals in rigging.

 

[Stemar]

Thank you, Jonathan.

I'll have a look next time I'm on board. I’m a bit limited in what I can use as the anchor chain channel is also the forestay chainplate, and there isn't a lot of width as the anchor comes in (no roller, everything just slides on the metal). I'm pretty much limited to an Allen key D shackle.

 

[Neeves]

You can take a standard shackle, one I list as being reputable, and chop the end off the shackle pin, angle grinder or hacksaw. You then smooth it off a bit, so that it does not catch. Then cut a slot in the cut surface, sufficient in size to take your largest screw driver. You can secure the modified shackle pin with Loctite. If you use blue Loctite it will be strongly adhered - if you use red Loctite - you may need a blow torch. Personally I would use red, we have a blow torch for the creme brûlée and its handy.

The only note of caution - there is usually a shoulder on the shackle pin, which stops the shackle pin being scewed too deeply into the eye - stops it coming out the other side. Don't cut that shoulder off! for, hopefully for obvious reasons.

If you are twitchy - go buy a shackle from a hardware store and try it.

I think Jimmy Green sell Alan keyed shackles, from a French source. The French company, Chaineries......? are now owned by one of the big European lifting companies Pewag or Rud etc. They should be reliable - but I have never tested the product - I have tested all the ones I mention.

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

Thank you, Jonathan.

I'll have a look next time I'm on board. I’m a bit limited in what I can use as the anchor chain channel is also the forestay chainplate, and there isn't a lot of width as the anchor comes in (no roller, everything just slides on the metal). I'm pretty much limited to an Allen key D shackle.

Sorry I missed that you have to use a "D" shackle. This then means the shackle does not rotate and you are more like to stress either the anchor shank or the shackle - because the effective lever length of the shank is longer. Some anchors were designed to take 'D' shackles, CQR and Manson's Ray, are 2.

Try the idea of cutting the lug off the shackle pin. As I mention bow shackles all look the same. Buy a cheap one that fits the chain and anchor - and try it. They don't cost much - just remember when you have finished mixing and matching - throw it way. To reiterate - they all look the same - easy to use the one that's good to secure a dog mistaking it for something a bit more robust (if you bin it no dangers

Take a pic or 4 of the anchor in the 'bow roller' - it may spark some ideas.

And let us know - you are not alone.

Jonathan

 

[Roberto]

I can't imagine any circumstances where any part of a mainsail, or mizzen, would touch a backstay.

Though a spinnaker could, don t ask how I know

 

[Poignard]

Though a spinnaker could, don t ask how I know

Fair point!

 

[zoidberg]

Though a spinnaker could, don t ask how I know

He's sussed me - good and proper!

 

[Stemar]

Yet another reason why I don't do spinnakers

 

[zoidberg]

It's just a couple of weeks back since we first looked here at backstay rigging plates, then clevis pins and their variants. I illustrated a Blue Wave offering at circa £86, which some thought was good VFM.

In the interim I've had these made up, in 5mm stainless, which came in at about 1/3 the above price.

My thanks to DinghyMan at #5 for pointing me to the excellent Lasermaster company in Redruth, and their charming, efficient and tolerant BO who had a smart-as-paint CAD drawing sent to me inside half-an-hour of my clumsy verbal explanation of what I thought I wanted. Almost all the intervening time was taken up, wrangling with DHL. She managed that, too, with aplomb.

The unit is drilled for M12 fasteners. No, I haven't quite decided yet.....

And the smaller 6mm holes? They're there to confuse gawpers in my s'club and just in case I want to fasten something else on there - like a stern light.

 

[ducked]

CD 25 Standing Rigging

This seems to be pretty close to the minimal lines I've been thinking along, except they use stainless wire and dyneema to make the “deadeye” substitute (its not really a deadeye) lanyards. I'd think this should work with galv wire and cheaper chordage.

Perhaps the fittings could be aluminium, or there might be a possibility of laying them up in fibreglass. but with the addition of some HDPE I suppose a SS upper fitting as shown could be isolated from galvanised wire.

They make a Flemish splice, and mention seizings (referencing Toss) but don’t appear to use them, apparently substituting SS hose clamps. This seems a bit inelegant and of doubtful strength, and I'm unclear why they do it. Nicopress is considered but Talurit apparently not.

 

[zoidberg]

Perhaps to round off this thread, and as it's dank, grey and cold outside today, I though to share the (nearly) final iteration.

and

I could use Nyloc nuts 'with extra threadlocker', or I could drill and tap these domenuts for a small grubscrew.

Thots?

 

[rogerthebodger]

Perhaps to round off this thread, and as it's dank, grey and cold outside today, I though to share the (nearly) final iteration.

and

', or I could drill and tap these dome nuts for a small grubscrew.

Thats what I did when I needed to lock some eye nuts onto the stanchion fitting when I found someone had unscrewed my eye nuts

 

[DinghyMan]

I could use Nyloc nuts 'with extra threadlocker', or I could drill and tap these domenuts for a small grubscrew.

Thots?

Or just get nyloc dome nuts?

 

[ducked]

Perhaps to round off this thread, and as it's dank, grey and cold outside today, I though to share the (nearly) final iteration.

and

I could use Nyloc nuts 'with extra threadlocker', or I could drill and tap these domenuts for a small grubscrew.

Thots?

Certainly looks rounded off
For Nyloc substitute, polythene sheet trapped in the thread seems to work pretty well.
At an appropriate thickness, it increases the torque on the nut as you make a thread-formed snakeskin.
Oh wait, repeating myself. Apologies.

I did at one point try vegetable oil on the threads but it makes too strong an adhesive and made it VERY difficult to get my wheels off. In combination with polythene it might be OK but not tested it.
Very hard to find Loctite, antiseize, etc in Taiwan.

 

[zoidberg]

One thing's for sure....

Those new plates are a darn sight stronger than the thinner one I'm replacing - provided I 'don't spoil the ship for a hap'worth of Locite.'

 

[rogerthebodger]

One thing's for sure....

Those new plates are a darn sight stronger than the thinner one I'm replacing - provided I 'don't spoil the ship for a hap'worth of Locite.'

This is exactly why I make fittings myself so I can design to the job to be done and not down to a cost by reducing the thickness of te material to the bear minimum