Cleats and use of

capnsensible said:
Easy way. Once you have got the anchor cable or lazy line correct and sternlines on, simply put the engine astern to bring the fendered transom to the dock. One at a time, change dock lines to a knot that wont chafe through. Opposite when preparing to slip. Easy peasy.

Lots of West Med marinas have rings and staples embedded into the concrete dock. Have seen the metal staples wear through, let alone lots of rope. Simple cure and takes just a few minutes. :encouragement:
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Exactly. With the end tied off in a seamanlike way on the quay you can still adjust from on board.

Otherwise you’ll be ‘freshening the nip’ frequently to preserve your lines. (And I’ve got better things to do...)
 
In the Netherlands it is standard practice to take the mooring line around the cleat and then back to the boat - I reckon 90% of the boats in my marina are tied up this way. I use OXOL for the free end - never had any problems releasing the L.
 
neil1967 said:
In the Netherlands it is standard practice to take the mooring line around the cleat and then back to the boat - I reckon 90% of the boats in my marina are tied up this way. I use OXOL for the free end - never had any problems releasing the L.
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Bad habits are catching. Just because lots if people do something doesn’t make it right.

But each to their own and if you’re happy to wear the consequences, then who am I.... etc. (Pun intended...)
 
Although I can see the merit of adopting standard approaches to cleating etc. if there are likely to be different crew members involved, as a single-hander I can do what I like when I like. For example, I can use a locking turn or not depending on whether jamming or slipping would be more of a problem in a particular case, and how I attach my warps to pontoon cleats is influenced by the state of the cleats, the conditions and how long I expect to be staying.
 
capnsensible said:
Easy way. Once you have got the anchor cable or lazy line correct and sternlines on, simply put the engine astern to bring the fendered transom to the dock. One at a time, change dock lines to a knot that wont chafe through. Opposite when preparing to slip. Easy peasy.

Lots of West Med marinas have rings and staples embedded into the concrete dock. Have seen the metal staples wear through, let alone lots of rope. Simple cure and takes just a few minutes. :encouragement:
Click to expand...

Why change the rope? I bought four warps when i first entered the med in 2005. I still have two of them, replaced the shorter two last year as they were a bit worn and a size too big.
 
LittleSister said:
That's rather radical isn't it? The Forum would grind to halt if we all took that sort of attitude! ;)
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No I would have thought the opposite, if there is an accepted ‘correct’ way then nothing to argue about, If you go down the ‘there isn’t a correct way’ then everyone who thinks they are right will put in their penny worth.
 
Never had a locking turn jam on me and don't see what's wrong with them. My berth, my rope my cleat my boat. Me who has to undo it. (normally).
My biggest gripe is with dinghy owners who tie up to pontoon cleats on a short painter and wrap their 10 metres of line around the cleat so no-one else can get close and if they do, there's no room on the cleat for their line. Now that's something we should be complaining about and maybe raising awareness with forum members.
 
greeny said:
Never had a locking turn jam on me and don't see what's wrong with them. My berth, my rope my cleat my boat. Me who has to undo it. (normally).
My biggest gripe is with dinghy owners who tie up to pontoon cleats on a short painter and wrap their 10 metres of line around the cleat so no-one else can get close and if they do, there's no room on the cleat for their line. Now that's something we should be complaining about and maybe raising awareness with forum members.
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First time I have ever +1d. Dinghy painters should be left longer than the dinghy.
 
vyv_cox said:
Why change the rope? I bought four warps when i first entered the med in 2005. I still have two of them, replaced the shorter two last year as they were a bit worn and a size too big.
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Put the knot in the same line.

We first got to Gib in 1999. I knew the staff quite well at Marina Bay. I pointed out the state of the rings and staples. They spent a lot of money replacing them.

Have seen ropes wear through in very short time in bad weather when just passed around a ring or bollard. Whats the point of not doing the job properly?? It takes very little time.
 
flaming said:
I've always cut the painter so that if it falls out of the dinghy the end of it is 6 inches shy of the outboard prop....
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That's how I determine the length of my bow and stern lines, which are interchangeable. The bow line can't reach the prop and the stern cleats are well aft of the prop. It worked great until I was going astern and the stern line escaped... :ambivalence:
 
capnsensible said:
Put the knot in the same line.

We first got to Gib in 1999. I knew the staff quite well at Marina Bay. I pointed out the state of the rings and staples. They spent a lot of money replacing them.

Have seen ropes wear through in very short time in bad weather when just passed around a ring or bollard. Whats the point of not doing the job properly?? It takes very little time.
Click to expand...

In those circumstances I would use my chain loops and springs, and have done this year in Greece. Warp to the quay and back to the boat is used by virtually everyone in the Med in average conditions. Absolutely nothing wrong with it and i consider it to be the 'proper' way.
 
Stemar said:
That's how I determine the length of my bow and stern lines, which are interchangeable. The bow line can't reach the prop and the stern cleats are well aft of the prop. It worked great until I was going astern and the stern line escaped... :ambivalence:
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I used to restrict the length of my dinghy and boat lines but got fed up with not having enough from time to time, so my boats main lines are 2m longer than the boat and the dinghy painter long enough. I have just learned to be careful. Even the Volvo instructions tell you to check for lines before engaging gear.
 
vyv_cox said:
In those circumstances I would use my chain loops and springs, and have done this year in Greece. Warp to the quay and back to the boat is used by virtually everyone in the Med in average conditions. Absolutely nothing wrong with it and i consider it to be the 'proper' way.
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So you change your lines for something that doesnt chafe through then. Like Im saying. :rolleyes:
 
All very interesting this and glad i started it.

As i've previously said i taught sailing for some 7 years and I've done my time crossing the channel at 6 knots so ive moved to the 25 knot side of things.

One thing i have found interesting in the the three years I've had a big motorboat is how different rope work is. For example on a yacht yes i might run the line to a pontoon cleat and back to the boat so i can easily use it as a spring is needed.

But on a motor boat..36ft...this just is not needed. I hold the thing in place while the Mrs takes off all the lines and steps onto the stern platform...i then drive away.

I've learned a hell of a lot more since being on a motorboat than i did in a yacht...not better things just different...i now know how hard it can be to park a motorboat for example!
 
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