Clear polycarbonate cover raw water pump

[DownWest]

+1

what you really need is a seawater pressure sensor after the pump and a suitable display/warning/whatever which is what I did a couple of weeks ago for the main engines
But just checking the exhaust outlet for water flow is much easier...

Or just a temp sensor after the mixer elbow connected to a loud alarm.
With respect, a clear pump cover is an answer to a rarely asked question. More people will glance over the transom to check water flow than will open the covers/hatches to look at a pump; Esp as it might not give an easy answer.

As an e.g. I looked at an outboard cooling impellor. Appeared fine, no big signs of wear, but no 'piddle' from the tell-tale. After going through the rest, I changed the impellor. Worked OK.

 

[DownWest]

Tempered glass actually sounds like a bulletproof idea. I'll get some out of a scuba diving mask and try to find somebody to cut it. Will update.

Once it is tempered, you can't cut it. Just shatters.

If you really want to do it, cut the glass and drill the holes, then send if off for hardening. I did this for a non marine application. But it seem a bit of a faff for little result.

 

[Robert Wilson]

Or just a temp sensor after the mixer elbow connected to a loud alarm.
With respect, a clear pump cover is an answer to a rarely asked question. More people will glance over the transom to check water flow than will open the covers/hatches to look at a pump; Esp as it might not give an easy answer.

As an e.g. I looked at an outboard cooling impellor. Appeared fine, no big signs of wear, but no 'piddle' from the tell-tale. After going through the rest, I changed the impellor. Worked OK.

I'm inclined to agree with that observation.
My question(s) would be (and I'm sure lots of folk have pondered this):-
Why is the pump so often/always faced backwards so that the removal is made more difficult?
Why are the bolts so bruddy small and fiddly to remove/replace?
Why is the whole assembly placed so precariously so that these fiddly little bolts are liable to disappear down into the engine bilge and be all but impossible to retrieve?

I speak from frustrated and miserable experience

For such an important piece of machinery, one which the OP has so eruditely questioned, surely someone would have realised the potential for improvement?

 

[Plum]

I'm inclined to agree with that observation.
My question(s) would be (and I'm sure lots of folk have pondered this):-
Why is the pump so often/always faced backwards so that the removal is made more difficult?
Why are the bolts so bruddy small and fiddly to remove/replace?
Why is the whole assembly placed so precariously so that these fiddly little bolts are liable to disappear down into the engine bilge and be all but impossible to retrieve?

I speak from frustrated and miserable experience

For such an important piece of machinery, one which the OP has so eruditely questioned, surely someone would have realised the potential for improvement?

Completely agree but many have already modified their pump by either fitting the Speedseal coverplate using slots and thumb screws or, for example, fitting short stainless studs to slip the cover plate over then use wing nuts or similar that can be fitted without tools.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Robert Wilson]

Completely agree but many have already modified their pump by either fitting the Speedseal coverplate using slots and thumb screws or, for example, fitting short stainless studs to slip the cover plate over then use wing nuts or similar that can be fitted without tools.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Ah Ha! Salvation is at hand :encouragement:
Thank you!

 

[RichardS]

Ah Ha! Salvation is at hand :encouragement:
Thank you!

And possibly was in post #6? :encouragement:

Richard

 

[Robert Wilson]

And possibly was in post #6? :encouragement:

Richard

Yes, correct.
I was thinking of the suggestion to modify the bolts/nuts; I think it ought not to be terribly difficult.
(What a stupid thing to think )

 

[PCUK]

I have made one from stainless steel , quite easy to copy ,almost zero wear .

Isn't it a bit opaque though?

 

[AntarcticPilot]

wouldn't tempered glass be the solution?
or simply a 10mm piece of glass?
cutting and drilling will be "interesting" though

V.

You just need to cut and drill before tempering.

Any local glazing company shoudl be able to cut, drill and temper glass as required. They'll also bevel the edge.

 

[vyv_cox]

Any local glazing company shoudl be able to cut, drill and temper glass as required. They'll also bevel the edge.

I found with my windscreens that there are a few rules that might raise problems. One I remember is that hole diameters cannot be less than the glass thickness. I am guessing that the minimum thickness required would be 4 mm but from memory the set-screw holes are less than that.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I'm inclined to agree with that observation.
My question(s) would be (and I'm sure lots of folk have pondered this):-
Why is the pump so often/always faced backwards so that the removal is made more difficult?
Why are the bolts so bruddy small and fiddly to remove/replace?
Why is the whole assembly placed so precariously so that these fiddly little bolts are liable to disappear down into the engine bilge and be all but impossible to retrieve?

I speak from frustrated and miserable experience

For such an important piece of machinery, one which the OP has so eruditely questioned, surely someone would have realised the potential for improvement?

I totally agree with you - When I re-engined I dismissed immediately some engines because of the pump accessibility and only looked at engines where the pump was easy to get at. (Beta 25) Replaced the silly little screws with Knurled SS screws from ebay, easy to fit and handle.

 

[miha90]

I totally agree with you - When I re-engined I dismissed immediately some engines because of the pump accessibility and only looked at engines where the pump was easy to get at. (Beta 25) Replaced the silly little screws with Knurled SS screws from ebay, easy to fit and handle.

The main reason I decided to repower my sailing boat with Beta was ease of service. Pump on the front, sump pump on side, filters easily accessible. Basically they are user friendly.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

I found with my windscreens that there are a few rules that might raise problems. One I remember is that hole diameters cannot be less than the glass thickness. I am guessing that the minimum thickness required would be 4 mm but from memory the set-screw holes are less than that.

I didn't know that, but it sounds plausible. I have never measured them, but I imagine that the bolts on the SpeedSeal on my Volvo 2003 are about 4 mm. ISTR that the minimum thickness of toughened glass on patio doors or similar is 4mm (up to an area of 2.5 square metres); and that thickness is enough to stop someone falling through it.

 

[vyv_cox]

I didn't know that, but it sounds plausible. I have never measured them, but I imagine that the bolts on the SpeedSeal on my Volvo 2003 are about 4 mm. ISTR that the minimum thickness of toughened glass on patio doors or similar is 4mm (up to an area of 2.5 square metres); and that thickness is enough to stop someone falling through it.

I bought windscreen glass in 4 mm thickness. This was based on the glass used in the sliding door in VW vans, which have a fairly hard life.

 

[SvenH]

I was told that the glass used for checkout scanners in supermarkets is diamond coated.
That is probably the best option, if you can get it cut somewhere with a water jet?