cleaning crusty pee

clyst

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hi anyone know of a quick and easily obtained chemical that softens the crud in loo pipes ?

cheers
 
assume that would only be used when can be immediately sea discharged. ie not into the holding tank?

Yes, I would think so. It froths up in a most spectacular way, so there must be an open end. You probably wouldn't want to have the possibility of an exploding holding tank.
 
hi anyone know of a quick and easily obtained chemical that softens the crud in loo pipes ?

cheers

An alternative to using chemicals is to remove the pipe and bang it on the ground to break up the crud. You may find it worthwhile replacing the pipe with the latest type from Lee or ASAP that is more flexible and smoother which some reports suggests does not bung up so quickly. Also completely flushing each time reduces build up.
 
B&Q Brick Cleaner comes highly recommended. It's hydrochloric acid.

Not all brick / patio / masonry cleaners are HCl based... therefore necessary to read the label or the safety data sheet to choose one that is.

The Cementone one is.
 
As others have said, Hydrochloric acid will do the trick.

PLEASE note that when you pour it into the heads, there is a very good chance that it will emit some very nasty gasses as a result of the chemical reaction. Wearing a mask will NOT help and you do need to remain in the heads while you pump it through the pipes.
 
It is simply not possible to treat all of a looped toilet pipe with HCl. We dose ours regularly but at best you can fill the upward side but not the downward. After two or three years we took our hose out about a month ago to whack it on the dock wall. A remarkable amount of brown salt came out.
 
To be honest, mine is still a work in progress. It blocked in the Spring, and I have since discovered that Jabsco, (mine is a Jabsco) recommend giving seven full strokes of the pump for every metre of pipe. Well, in total, Mine is six metres, and I certainly hadn't been giving it forty-two strokes.

I do not put the acid into the toilet. I know that the pipework is all clear to the first diverter valve. I am able, easily to disconnect at the first Diverter valve, where the hose is feeding down into the bilge, on its way to the seacock, further aft, and on the other side of the boat. The boat is afloat, but by using a dinghy pump, and a second person to shut the seacock, I am able to get nearly all the water out of the pipe. I can then pour in the hydrochloric acid into the pipe. I know, in my case that the problem is only a short length of the hose, at the lowest point, so I know that the HCl is getting to the scene of the conflict. I suspect that so far, I have not given the acid long enough to work. I am confident that with the use of the acid and a clever wire drain-cleaning "snake", from Aldi, I will get it all clear.

If you can easily get your pipe out, banging it up against the wall gives instant results, and a certain gratification, as you bash it. Mine is almost impossible to dismantle. I think the boat has been built around it.:(

However, replacing the piping is not the complete answer, adequate pumping, is.
 
Thanks all . Unfortunately the pipe work is hidden and a sod to get at.B rick cleaner seems to be the answer but is it safe on GRP gelcoat if splashed as there is a lot of it in the area ?

Cheers
 
Thanks all . Unfortunately the pipe work is hidden and a sod to get at.B rick cleaner seems to be the answer but is it safe on GRP gelcoat if splashed as there is a lot of it in the area ?

Cheers

No problem on GRP
 
The acid is the way to go, most Europeans use this as it is freely available in any supermarket for about €1.00 a liter. We used in the holding tank and in the pipework, no problems.

We do have access to the both pipes to and from the holding tank easily, so pouring the acid into the pipes was easy, and we used to leave a few liters in the holding tank as well. We also pumped it from the toilet end as well. Leave it to froth and clean and settle down then pump it all out; don't forget to close the sea cock first - and remember to open before you pump out!!!
 
The acid is the way to go, most Europeans use this as it is freely available in any supermarket for about €1.00 a liter...

Agua Fuerte in Spain - damn good stuff! Also clears shell growth on the prop/dynaplate/any other underwater metallic surface
 
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