Circumnavigation of Britain: Clockwise or counter clockwise?

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Our thoughts at present are that we are most likeley to go clockwise from Portsmouth.
We're happy to have a 'barge' of a boat for the rough stuff, but sad to miss the rivers and backwaters that Dylan shows us.
We may just go up and then back through the Caledonian so that we can see more of Scotland.
Someone said to me 'why don't you just swop boats with Dylan for a month or two half way round'... 'yeah right'.
No offence Dylan but my excuse is swmbo wouldn't.

 

[westhinder]

Try to leave earlier than June, especially if you decide to go clockwise. I left on 15 June from Belgium for a clockwise trip, which proved too late for the period of Norteasterlies that we normally get in May or June. I had to shelter for five days in Dartmouth to let a depression blow over and was held up for a week in Falmouth due to the next stormdepression.
I had to abort my attempt there due to an illness in the family. So I have unfinished business and when I come back to finish it, I plan to go clockwise again but leave around 15 May at the latest.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

I went round in 60 days going clockwise and over the top. It doesn't matter which way you go, the wind will be against you most of the way anyway. Or so it seemed at the time.

 

[sailingjoy]

Hi Johan, Nice to meet a Belgian neighbour!
Stiekum even in het Nederlands/Vlaams: Mooie boot, van een Rival 34 naar een Starlight 39! Je hebt dus dezelfde strijd als ik om tegen de heersende westenwind in naar Engeland te moeten kruisen.
Sorry, back to English:

Try to leave earlier than June, especially if you decide to go clockwise. I left on 15 June from Belgium for a clockwise trip, which proved too late for the period of Norteasterlies that we normally get in May or June.
.... and when I come back to finish it, I plan to go clockwise again but leave around 15 May at the latest.

We won’t be able to leave before June 15, so we will probably miss these nice Northeasterlies. But I think we will change our plan. See next post.

 

[sailingjoy]

Sorry, as you now know The Caley is slang for the Caledonian.

The most dramatic part of the coast is Wester Ross and further north which is the north west part of Scotland, roughly level with Syke and upwards. Mountains fall in to the sea and you are further north than Cape horn is south. Orkney is also unforgettable, Yes it's a slog to get there around the part of the coast, but it really is breathtaking, and everything else seems a bit lame afterwards.

Snooks, you and a few others convinced me it is a sin to miss Orkney. So I think we will change our plan to a circumnavigation of the north of Scotland: from Holland to Inverness, through The Caley, then the Hebrides and clockwise to Orkney and back along the (flattish…) East Coast.
Do you or anybody who has been there have suggestions for anchorages in The Orkneys in the “must see” category?

 

[sailingjoy]

If you go right round the top the Pentland Firth is easier West to East but that can be avoided by going via the Orkneys which really are a must see if you are travelling almost that far anyway.

Any suggestions for anchorages in the Orkneys?

 

[sailingjoy]

If I had 8 or 9 weeks to sail in the UK I would go from Holland to Inverness, through the canal, up the West Coast of Scotland, round Cape Wrath to Orkney then back fairly directly down the North Sea to Holland. Just a thought but those are the best bits. Shetland is worth a visit too.

As you have seen I think I will follow your advice. Since you seem to live in and/or sail from Aberdeen, do you have suggestions for not-to-miss anchorages in that area?

 

[snooks]

Do you or anybody who has been there have suggestions for anchorages in The Orkneys in the “must see” category?

When you get there, either Kirkwall or Stromness take time out and hire a car, there is so much to see and do around the mainland, from Skara Brea to various other neolithic settlements, it's really is a treasure trove of archaeology. From there head to some of the more remote islands like Westray or Papa westray, and don't miss the walk to the Old Man of Hoy. Also visit Highland Park, the most northerly of Scotland's (legal) Distilleries. Oh and don't miss the Italian Chapel, or the Orkney Wines Strubarb.

I could go on but I won't

 

[westhinder]

Snooks, you and a few others convinced me it is a sin to miss Orkney. So I think we will change our plan to a circumnavigation of the north of Scotland: from Holland to Inverness, through The Caley, then the Hebrides and clockwise to Orkney and back along the (flattish…) East Coast.
Do you or anybody who has been there have suggestions for anchorages in The Orkneys in the “must see” category?

Sounds like a very interesting and also challenging project. No suggestions for the Orkneys, I'm afraid, but do not miss the Farne Islands and Holy Island near the Scottish border. North of the border Eyemouth and Stonehaven are also quite nice. Further south Whitby.
Best of luck!

 

[Seagreen]

I am going for the slowest

so that might take a long time...

...I reckon I have done about a quarter or the journey

Dylan

Loving your East Coast films as i do, Dylan, you will lose yourself for decades in the Hebrides, the Irish sea, and the South West.

 

[Fascadale]

As you have seen I think I will follow your advice. Since you seem to live in and/or sail from Aberdeen, do you have suggestions for not-to-miss anchorages in that area?

Edinburgh, almost Aberdeen (if seen from far enough away)

I think you may have made the right decision.

Having sailed all round this island the best bits are definitely at the north end: Devon and Cornwall are nice, the East Coast rivers are charming but the real magic lies in the north and the north west. (Fighting words, I know)

Were I sailing to and from The Netherlands I would begin and end my cruising at Peterhead. The south coast of the Moray Firth has nice little harbours, Whitehills and Lossiemouth, then Inverness and through the canal. After Fort William you are spoilt for choice.

This thread may help you with the West Coast of Scotland

My favourite place on the west coast is Coalas Mor, Loch Skipport, South Uist in the Outer Hebrides, 57 19 25 N 7 15 08 W

In Orkney, Stromness is wonderful. Very pretty little town, very very good little museum, loads of history in the hills around and under the waters of Scapa Flow. Great walking on Hoy. Easy bus to Kirkwall.

If you get as far as Orkney and you have the time then Fair Isle is a very special place to visit

On the way south from Orkney I would go directly back to Peterhead and then just keep going south.

Do not expect to find the same level of facilities in the north. Not many marinas, though there are now pontoons in Kirkwall, Stromness, Kinlochbervie and Wick. Plenty of anchorages, plenty of space, and sadly some rain and midgees. Well worth spending the rest of the winter reading the Imray pilots for the West Coast.

There are really too many good places to make it worth making a list. The weather is very changeable so you have to be very flexible in your passage planning but here are some other places worth a visit

Loch Scavaig, Skye

Soay Harbour, Soay, south of Skye

Lunga in the Treshnish Isles

Rhum

Enjoy. If you happen to be in Stornoway between the 11th and 14th July you will be able to go to the "Hebridean Celtic Music Festival" If you are there then come and say hallo.

 

[sailingjoy]

Thanks very much for all the tips, Snooks, Westhinder and Fascadale. I love this forum!

Fascadale, sorry about Aberdeen… ;-) , your pictures make me want to leave right now! But then I’ll be too early for the Hebridean Celtic Music Festival, so I’ll try to wait till June…
Looks like Peterhead is indeed an good starting point.

And we will certainly try to make it to the Festival, that’s exactly what we were hoping for. I’ll let you.

 

[awol]

Fascadale et al are making the cruising grounds of the truly discerning and cultured sailor sound far too appealing. Putting out the idea that Nederlands to P'heid is but a wee hop, skip and and a jump might put notions into the heads of our southern neighbours and then we will get a return of the "Scotland is nice, but why don't they build more marinas?" posts. Where are the posts extolling the virtues of Dover, Brighton, Fawley and that quiet haven of rare aquatic wild life, Studland Bay?

Sailingjoy, I still recommend the return south via Norway/Denmark. Our side of the North Sea has little to commend it other than being a weather shore most of the time, and a totally unwelcoming lee shore with the wind out of the east.

 

[snowleopard]

Sounds good. I'm starting to lean towards anti clockwise

I have done it both ways, via the Caledonian Canal in both cases. By taking the canal you cut out the problem of headwinds between Wick & Cape Wrath so my deciding argument would be to avoid what is almost always a long upwind slog from Dover to the Lizard.

Another vote for anticlockwise.

 

[sighmoon]

Loch Scavaig, Skye

Cor! What a beautiful anchorage!

It looks pretty steepsided though; what sort of depth are you anchored in? Also I've heard that weed is a problem in some bits of Scotland; is there anything you can do (i.e. sharpen the anchor) or just keep setting it until it holds?

 

[Fascadale]

Fascadale et al are making the cruising grounds of the truly discerning and cultured sailor sound far too appealing. Putting out the idea that Nederlands to P'heid is but a wee hop, skip and and a jump might put notions into the heads of our southern neighbours and then we will get a return of the "Scotland is nice, but why don't they build more marinas?" posts. Where are the posts extolling the virtues of Dover, Brighton, Fawley and that quiet haven of rare aquatic wild life, Studland Bay?

As ever the perceptive gentleman from Port Edgar is correct.

It is a trek to P'head, but it takes you past wonderful Grimsby, home of the yacht club with what maybe the cheapest pint around the entire coast and a very friendly little marina.

I should redress the north south balance with images of "The Beautiful South". High quality facilities, warmer weather, no midgees and many friendly people.

Bonny Brighton

Eastbourne

Cor! What a beautiful anchorage!

It looks pretty steepsided though; what sort of depth are you anchored in? Also I've heard that weed is a problem in some bits of Scotland; is there anything you can do (i.e. sharpen the anchor) or just keep setting it until it holds?

Its not too deep, my 35m of chain gave me enough scope. The pilot book warns of strong down draughts off the surrounding hills. This is what you go past on the way into Scavaig.
Weedwise, I have a 16kg Manson which seems to do the job.

 

[westhinder]

Loch Scavaig

Loch Scavaig in itself justfies the voyage, even if there was no other point of interest between it and our Low Countries. Ever since I stood on its shore for the first time, now over 30 years ago, I have dreamt of anchoring there under the Cuillins. The practicalities of life have not made it possible yet, but I'm confident I'll get there eventually.

 

[snooks]

Some (more) pics to whet your appetite:

Orkney:
Stromness

Sound of Hoy

Skara Brae

Papa Westray

Broch of Gurness

Holm Sound

Italian Chapel

Puffins on (and off) Birsay

A couple of other bits of Scotland:

Scavaig (again...But it is breathtaking, just watch for the rock in the middle of the entrance)

Kylesku

and again

See much more fun than a circumnavigation of Britain, a circumnavigation of the top half of Scotland

There are 10 pages of hints and tips about cruising Scotland in the May 2011 issue of Yachting Monthly - on zinio

 

[rib]

hi sailingjoy,ive been around 6 times the long way in sailing boat 5times rib 1time.in april/may and sept/oct anti clocks wise 5 times.the wind will b what it will b,b flexible. thou most of the advise you are getting is good.the south west coast of uk and the scilles are as good as anywhere in uk as is ireland and rathlin island.my sailing trips have allways been within 6 weeks my best with 33 stops my worst 19(thou i must admit to not giving the east coast much of my time)2000 miles iish the long way 50 miles aday get some long legs in to build in some storm bound days then slow down(i use between 3 to 5 days in reserve.then you can decide where is best and return for another trip!!

 

[sailingjoy]

Fascadale et al are making the cruising grounds of the truly discerning and cultured sailor sound far too appealing. Putting out the idea that Nederlands to P'heid is but a wee hop, skip and and a jump might put notions into the heads of our southern neighbours and then we will get a return of the "Scotland is nice, but why don't they build more marinas?" posts.

Don't worry about that, awol, we love to anchor and we avoid marina's if at all possible. I've got a windgenerator to be more independent of shore power. For exemple, I was going to ask Fascadale if it is allowed to anchor in Peterhead inside the outer breakwaters without going into the marina.
And many years ago I've sailed from Holland to Inverness in one go, so I know it is not something to take lightly.

[/QUOTE]Where are the posts extolling the virtues of Dover, Brighton, Fawley and that quiet haven of rare aquatic wild life, Studland Bay?

Sailingjoy, I still recommend the return south via Norway/Denmark. Our side of the North Sea has little to commend it other than being a weather shore most of the time, and a totally unwelcoming lee shore with the wind out of the east[/QUOTE]

I love the South Coast, I've enjoyed Dover, Eastbourne, Brighton en Fawly and all the rivers in the Southwest.
And I would love to do the Norwegian coast, but I want to save something for the coming years.