Choosing threaded eye for forestay/toggle

[chris-s]

Have new standing rigging for the new season all sorted, except for the forestay toggle assembly which incorporates the fixing for the furler.



I’m getting a new toggle made up, slightly heavier built, and went ahead and ordered a new threaded eye for the assembly, but it wasn’t until I put them beside each other that I noticed the new sta-lok eye has a lot less metal around the eye itself.

Whilst the sta-lok might be perfectly good enough, I’d like to at least see what other options are out there if there might be one with more ‘meat’ around the eye. Suggestions?

(1/2inch fittings, 7mm wire, 32ft Beneteau, masthead rigging)

 

[penberth3]

Have new standing rigging for the new season all sorted, except for the forestay toggle assembly which incorporates the fixing for the furler.

View attachment 170312

I’m getting a new toggle made up, slightly heavier built, and went ahead and ordered a new threaded eye for the assembly, but it wasn’t until I put them beside each other that I noticed the new sta-lok eye has a lot less metal around the eye itself......

Amount of metal is irrelevant. You have to consider the strength of the material, Is it the same? TBH the new eye doesn't look a lot less across the pin.

 

[bluerm166]

Other option WICHARD and compare stated SWL for the differing manfr. unless your eye (sight) is calibrated.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I would be concerned about the bending load on the eye bolt posted.

I would use with a U Bolt of a proper bracket and backing to spread the loads.

 

[chris-s]

Thanks guys.

I also found a Hamma Regatta eye which has more metal around the eye like the original. It’s actually heavier built in all dimensions. These are forged 316 just like the sta-lok and ‘resemble’ the original more closely.

 

[Dantp]

The hamma definitely has more meat on it, and is very nicely made. Although I wouldn't be concerned about the strength of the stalok.
I think the weakest point is the thread.
Just to be aware they are also slightly different lengths, which may affect your turnbuckle adjustments max/ min slightly.
We did something similar last year and looked at all the options.

 

[rogerthebodger]

The hamma rigging screw as specified is designed to be loaded in tension only and belding is eliminated with the toggles in the rigging.

If I have this correct you wish to used this bolted through the deck between the deck and the toggle you will be introducing a bending force in the threaded portion of the rigging screw

 

[Fantasie 19]

The hamma rigging screw as specified is designed to be loaded in tension only and belding is eliminated with the toggles in the rigging.

If I have this correct you wish to used this bolted through the deck between the deck and the toggle you will be introducing a bending force in the threaded portion of the rigging screw

My understanding is that the threaded end is for the bottom of the furler, not for a deck fitting, but you have me wondering if my assumption was correct now...

 

[rogerthebodger]

My understanding is that the threaded end is for the bottom of the furler, not for a deck fitting, but you have me wondering if my assumption was correct now...

Well if you are right then my interpretation would be wrong so e need clarification from the OP

 

[chris-s]

It is for the bottom end. The toggle connects to a very very substantial rod that in turn is connected to the hull/chain plate etc.

I have gone ahead and ordered the Hamma one, it is much more substantial and a better length, a little longer, where as the sta-lok was a little shorter so it can be cut down if needed which should avoid any length issues when the rigging is all put back up.

Next job will be to get my local fabricator to make me a new toggle.