checklist for KAD32 engine service - anything missing?

[RIN]

I hope to service my KAD32's this weekend as the boat will shortly be coming out of the water. This will be the first time I have done this so would be grateful of any omissions, advice or observations

Here's my list:

1) warm up engines
2) remove oil by via dipstick hole
3) replace oil filters
4) fill up with new oil (can anyone recommend a cheaper substitute for volvo oil? SAE 15W/40)
then either
5) replace fine diesel filters on the engines, will I need to bleed the high pressure nozzles or is it just a case of bleeding the fuel pump?
OR
6) replace fine filters and the Racor course filters. The course filters were replaced in May 06 . Do I need to replace them every year? (they are quite expensive) and then bleed the entire fuel system up to the HP nozzles
7) check oil in the compressors
8) fresh water cooling system - replace the coolant - do I need to use the volvo inhibitor or is there something cheaper as good
9) run engines to check all ok

Plan then is to do the raw water bits when the boat is out of the water. Do I need to replace the impellers every year?

Also are there any engine anodes on the KAD32 that need replacing?

Finally will this cheap oil extractor work? oil extractor Is it man enough for the job and is there any danger the tube stuck down the dipstick hole will melt if the engines are hot? Probably a dumb question but then I have only ever changed engine oil in my cars via the sump plug

Thanks in advance for your comments

Richard

 

[bdsweeting]

No comment on the engine bits as I don't know it but on the oil extraction I'd go for one of these..
http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetails/m...6c-0353556ce11a

A vacuum pump, the pump you picked would work but have to say that the abrrel get very hot to hold as you pump out the oil. I have one on my Ford but now use the vacuum pump.

Almost forgot... Impellor

Friend of mine just changed his on a VW turbo as part of the 100hr service. Old impellor was 'set' in shape and he now has superior water flow.
Is the cost of an impellor worth scimping on compared to a blown engine?

 

[No1_Moose]

I don't think you will need to replace the coarse fuel filters every year. Take the old filter out and have a look at it, it will either be fairly obviously clogged up with nasty bits of black goo in which case replace it or it will be nice and clean. Easy.

You don't need to put inhibitor in the fresh water system if you are putting coolant in (I guess you are) as the coolant already contains rust inhibitor stuff.

And yep, you need to get a proper Pela oil pump as above. Not only are they great for sucking oil out but you'll spend weeks crawling around the bilges getting rid of tiny pools of water with it, what fun /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. You won't melt the pipe but for super speedy oil changes don't use the narrow black pipe, get a longer bit of clear flexible pipe that just fits down the dipstick.

You can use any oil that conforms to the Volvo spec, I think Texaco stuff is cheapest but if you want to use something with "Volvo" written on the label then go to your nearest friendly Volvo truck place and buy the same oil in the same blue bottles for a lot less. Same goes for Volvo coolant.

 

[gimmesunshine]

you can use that pump but will take ages, wont melt pipe, talking from experience !
no engine anode to replace
comma supa oil conforms to the volovo spec and is about £42 for 25 litres
havent yet done fuel filters myself
still learning this bit !

 

[Peanuts]

I agree with all about the oil change. I assume that you have Racor fuel filters, I would check the bowl for dirt/water and drain off, (just like you do on your routine maintenance)visually examine the filter itself,if OK refit and top up with clean fuel. Remove the engine mounted fuel filter and replace with new one but first fill up with clean fuel, doing this will save you having to bleed the engine - it does work, its the way I always do it. I would also at this point check all of the drive belts, if needbe remove to inspect then refit or replace. I have cross refered the Volvo part numbers at the local car shop, they are a lot cheaper. I would also grease the steering nipple, on my boat it is easist to remove the crankcase breather filters ( just unscrew) turn the steering to port and it gives good access to the grease point, then refit breather filters.
It is a good idea to drain off a small amount (1/2 litre) of antifreeze from the rubber pipe by the supercharger, its the brass bung with the blue marking on the tube, the reason is that it traps the sludge and if left over a long period (2 - 3 years) it becomes solid and is a real pain to remove. Refit the brass plug and top up with antifreeze mix.
Always check your impellers each year.
There are no engine anodes, not that I know of.
Where is your boat in Poole - not at Cobbs Quay is it? If you do you own maintenance do you have any of the workshop manuals. Give me a shout if you require any further info.

 

[RIN]

Thanks for your help everyone just about to jump into the car and do the 3 hour trip to the boat
Steve - Actually we are next door at the excellent Davis's Boat Yard.
If you can recomend a place to get a Haynes type workshop manual that would be great - also if you can PM or post the list of belt cross references that would be good as well

cheers

Richard

 

[spannerman]

When were the valves last checked/adjusted? its every 200 hrs on these engines, let me know if you want the procedure.

 

[RIN]

Yes please spannerman post or PM I have done 250 hours on the KAD32s so I guess I should adjust the valves

thanks

Richard

 

[Peanuts]

How did you get on with your engine servicing, did it go to plan? I saw your question about oil.
I enclose the list for all the belts as used on the KAD32, I hope it makes sense

Power steering Belt - Volvo No. 973487
Car shop - 6375MC or MBF1013

Alternator Belt - Volvo No. 977542
Car shop - 6469MC or MMB987

Primary Belt - Volvo No. 861564
Car shop - 7PK925 78359 or MMR7925

Compressor Belt - Volvo No.3581460
Car shop - 68376 6PK1138 or MMR61150

Air Filter - Volvo No.463505
Car shop - Champion U531 (As used in 240 1.7DL.GL B17A 1979 onwards)

The cheapest place for decent oil and fuel filters I have found is Keypart and the same goes for the crankcase filters.

I hope this is of some help, if you require any further info give me a shout or pop round next door to CQ (boats on F)

 

[RIN]

Steve
thanks for the info will get these as spares

Not much luck with the service - Saturday was a washout - it took nearly 5 hours to get top the boat and since we were going out to meet relatives that night we didn't start until Sunday morning then found out I had only one oil filter so spent a good deal of the morning trying to get the second one. so all I have done is the oil change.

boat is coming out of water next monday so will need to finish off this week end.

Here is some info for KAD32s given to me by John on Castanet II
Fram filters , air CA4365, oil PH 2861B , diesel P5770.

Richard

 

[Peanuts]

Sorry to hear about your lack of progress, bit late now but if you popped round to see me I could of helped you out as I carry full set of all filters/belts (with tooling) on board.
I'm back in water (went in on Weds) but down all weekend if you need anything, might be round to Davis's to see a mate about servicing his outdrives for him - I'll keep a lookout for you.

Steve

 

[Elza_Skip]

I recently did my KAD32.

I tried the same pump as you suggested but useless and bought a Pella.

I bought all the spares and Volvo oil from Volspec- this is actually cheaper than the GTX I put in the car

I also changed the Air filter- this was suprisingly dirty and the engine breather. Both easy subject to access

I have not done the fuel filters yet, was going to do them at the start of the season in case of any diesel bug growing over the winter

One tip I tried for the first time was to put a plastice sandwich bag over the oil filter as I changed it- worked a treat.

Good luck!

 

[RIN]

Steve
Have got all spares now. Do say hello if you come round as I will be there all weekend. We are the only Princess 286 at Davis's

Richard

 

[RIN]

more or less finished now but one point - volvo wanted to charge me £75 for the two crancase breahers - did you manage to get cheaper than that?.
I wish I had put a plastic bag round the oil and fuel filters _ had a real mess to clean out of the bilge - and coolant too

 

[Elza_Skip]

Ah- I only found out about the plastic bag after the first time I had done a service!

As for the breather- I believe it was about 15-20 quid each. I suggest you call Volspec. They supply genuine Volvo parts for a fraction of the chandlery prices.