Your usual throwaway comment, based on zero knowledge of the OPs circumstances.Why would you want to charge the starter battery by solar when it gets charged in short order by the engine every time you start up?
This is a typically sensible optionHave you considered a Voltage Sensing Relay switch?
Input voltage >13.8 volts and the solar charges both banks. <13.0 volts and the starter battery does not receive any charge.
and link the house and starter batteries together via a manual parallel switch so that if the worst happens you can start from the house battery... switch clusters incorporating isolating & parallel switches and a VSR are readily available.Have you considered a Voltage Sensing Relay switch?
Input voltage >13.8 volts and the solar charges both banks. <13.0 volts and the starter battery does not receive any charge.
As you asked.Why would you want to charge the starter battery by solar when it gets charged in short order by the engine every time you start up?
Why would you want to charge the starter battery by solar when it gets charged in short order by the engine every time you start up?
And if it's low it won't "gets charged in short order by the engine". So you end up with a constantly undercharged battery, leading to a very short life.As you asked.
In the UK the weather can be sh1te. From time to time it can be weeks or even months between starting the engine. In that time, for all sorts of reasons, the voltage in your starter battery can go from an at rest voltage of 12.7 volts to 12.2 volts and might not have enough energy to start the engine. To mitigate that issue you trickle charge it.
But isn't the voltage changed after the controller? In my mind at the input side of both the mppt and the pwm , the voltage will be the raw value the panel gives at the moment, for example 16,5 volts. The mppt just reads a voltage it isn't aware a pwm is connected also. Or am I wrong?It would be an interesting experiment to try, but I don’t think the MPPT controller will work correctly.
The MPPT controller needs to adjust the output voltage of the solar to select the maximum power point. The PWM does not have the ability of the MPPT controller to change the voltage. Unfortunately, the solar panel cannot be at two voltages at the same time.
In short, the connection of the PWM controller will prevent the MPPT controller from working correctly, and you will end up with the equivalent of two PWM controllers, or in some situations, the PWM controller may prevent the MPPT from reaching its start-up voltage (+5v over battery voltage).
Sounds good! I assume the only drawback is that temporarily the house battery will also feed the starter motor as it will be connected to the starting battery ? Until the voltage drops bellow 13?Have you considered a Voltage Sensing Relay switch?
Input voltage >13.8 volts and the solar charges both banks. <13.0 volts and the starter battery does not receive any charge.
That's not normally an issue.Sounds good! I assume the only drawback is that temporarily the house battery will also feed the starter motor as it will be connected to the starting battery ? Until the voltage drops bellow 13?
I have the same. It has been in use for well over 20 years, completely reliable. Lower output than an MPPT controller would give but that is rarely a problem in Greece. Dual battery charge controller, by SunWorks. For motorhomes and boats.I have a Dual Output Controller on one boat .... which works fine, been installed nearly 2yrs ... its PWM - so nothing expensive ...
A MPPT controller works by adjusting its input voltage (the voltage of the solar panel) to the optimal value where the panel can deliver the maximum power. It then converts this higher panel voltage to a lower voltage suitable for charging the battery.But isn't the voltage changed after the controller? In my mind at the input side of both the mppt and the pwm , the voltage will be the raw value the panel gives at the moment, for example 16,5 volts. The mppt just reads a voltage it isn't aware a pwm is connected also. Or am I wrong?