changing water pump belt on a kad 42 volvo engine

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captaindan

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evening
was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on changing water pump belts on kad 42 engine. which have snapped. i take it i loosen the tensioner to put them on is there a correct tensioner setting for the belt as it has broke a couple of times recently both times they have been fitted by volvo penta engineer

any help or advice is greatly apreciated

kind regards
Danny
 
Just you push it with a finger on the longest section and it should displace about 1-2 cm .
Sometimes the tensioner adjustment bolts knacker ,it's an eccentric pully ( from memory with a kad 300 ?) awkward thing .
Another thing could be alignment and corossion of the base metal pully wheels from salt water spilling out when you take the cap off the strainer ,
This abrades and shortens the life span .
I rubbed all the rusty pulleys down and applied waxoil when smooth after a similar spate of snapping belts .
Fixed the problem and stopped the black dust too .
The V belts grip from the V sides ,there's enough friction with a smooth pully ,but that soon turns into life shortening abrasion as they rust .
 
Last edited:
thanks thats probably what it is

the last time i went out it did both belts on port and starboard engine which i found really odd. how did you get the wax oil on it i ive got visions of standing over it with a lit candle:)

cheers dan
 
Are they 2 v belts or 1 multi v belt ? If there snapping you have alignment issue and or worn rusty pulleys which require replacement otherwise you will have this problem for ever .
 
release the belt tensioners, release the tension in the alternator belt /power steering belt
take off the supercharger belt
take the 4 bolts out of the big front pulley on the water pump and remove it
then you can fit/change the water pump drive belt
stick it all back together and I think the tensioner has to be set to between 35nm - 40nm (check the owners manual) which is pretty tight.
 
I took them all off
In the SoF ,summer waxoil melts and is v runny .
Wet n dry paper rub it -rust off ,prep it -takes time --windy day job for Mr while wife n kids go off to beach etc .
As ^^^ --sods law the water pump belt from memory on the port engine is the deepest of the 3 so you have to remove the other two .
Alternator s like a car ,normal adjuster rack .
Other two a silly a adjuster pully that the nuts /hex soon round off ,if that's had a "gorilla " on it then I think they are €80 a pop ?
I was lucky as VP .France ,s HQ with a sales counter is 3 mikes away from the marina ,It also has a little super market type shop .just walking round the shelve s for 9 years you get a feel for stuff that's "moving " so to speak .
Belts n belt tensioners never got dusty ,they were flying out .

I have to say I only go to the MAN "shop" once a year these day s at the annual .
The pulleys do not rust ,the inside metal is just gun metal Gray ,white paint in the outside .
One huge belt /engine it's toothed inside and adjusted by the rack on the alternator. Which is in a position were there is zero risk of it being soaked by any thing .
I have a spare belt in case with the boat --- they suggest a special tensioning guage as opposed to the VP finger guesstimate --- but you know Germans need to calculate everything .
 
kashurst said:
release the belt tensioners, release the tension in the alternator belt /power steering belt
take off the supercharger belt
take the 4 bolts out of the big front pulley on the water pump and remove it
then you can fit/change the water pump drive belt
stick it all back together and I think the tensioner has to be set to between 35nm - 40nm (check the owners manual) which is pretty tight.
Click to expand...

That's the procedure for the later engine with multi v belt not the early one with 2 single v belt
 
Portofino said:
I have a spare belt in case with the boat --- they suggest a special tensioning guage as opposed to the VP finger guesstimate --- but you know Germans need to calculate everything .
Click to expand...

The VP guesstimate you refer to is only for those that don't know how to do it properly as VP do give a torque setting in the manual for those not to lazy to set to correct tension, it's no surprise so many people have trouble with belts failing
 
yes mine is the one with two belts on it, should be fairly easy to get off as they have both been off in the last couple of years, well that is my theory any way. I have read somewhere that there is some kind of conversion kit available for this . has anyone got any info on this and the benefits .
 
captaindan said:
yes mine is the one with two belts on it, should be fairly easy to get off as they have both been off in the last couple of years, well that is my theory any way. I have read somewhere that there is some kind of conversion kit available for this . has anyone got any info on this and the benefits .
Click to expand...

The conversion kit is a fortune as you need.

New crank pulley
New water pump and pulley
Belt
Adjuster pulley
Bracket
Tooth gear
Bolt etc etc.

Done quite a few over the years , if your shredding belts your pulleys are worn.
 
Just taken it all off, the big pulley that you take the 4 bolts off of i have taken the bolts out could someone please tell me if this should just pullout now or if im to screw it out. Looks like pulleys are rusty so will be rubbing them all down too.
 
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