Changing running rigging on a Kingfisher 22ft

[pij27]

I need to change the rope halyards for the main sail lift. The rope has frayed and the outer has separated from the inner. Can I just secure the new rope to the old, but the ends and wrap in tape and then slowly pull the new through? Or should I either get the mast stepped or have someone climb the mast to replace the rope?
Also anyone know what sort of size I should be using and any particular type of rope to use? I have had the boat for a little while but not assessed these ropes before and the owners club info doesn't have much information except for basic dimensions.

 

[B27]

I would sew the ropes end to end with whipping twine then tape over.

What size of rope depends on your fittings, cleats, sheaves etc.
If you can find a good deal on a length of dyneema, the reduced stretch is nice IMHO.

 

[Refueler]

I would sew the ropes end to end with whipping twine then tape over.

What size of rope depends on your fittings, cleats, sheaves etc.
If you can find a good deal on a length of dyneema, the reduced stretch is nice IMHO.

Yep ... only need to add ... make sure that the joint is not so stiff that it cannot go round the sheave at top os mast ... AND its not bigger diameter than rope ... if its too much - it will stick in mast sheave and then its a pain ...

Personally I prefer to use a light line to be pulled through by old halyard ... then new halyard pulled through by the light line ... this then helps avoid those two factors ...

 

[LittleSister]

There's little advantage to going/sending someone up the mast. If you are careful (e.g. see the tips above) you can replace it from deck level. Do be very careful, though, because if the joints between the lines, or the lines themselves, part, then you are into a lot of pain and will probably need to have the mast unstepped in order to thread a new halyard through.

You can probably find pics/advice on line about how to stitch lines together for this job. Use thick strong thread, or whipping twine as suggested above, not ordinary dressmaking cotton. Stitch through the ropes a decent length (1/2") from the ends of each rope, so the thread doesn't tear out. Do several, but not too many, say 3?, stitches so its secure but not bulky or rigid. Insulating tape will do to 'fair' the completed join so it doesn't catch on anything yet remains sufficiently flexible to pass over fittings.

Basic cruising braid on braid polyester rope will be fine. In my view you certainly don't need, and would probably see negligible advantage with, dyneema for a boat and rig of that size and type. You'll find recommendations for halyard diameter sizing on the Jimmy Green and various other yacht rope supplier's websites. Off the top of my head I would guess (but do check) that 8mm will be adequate, but 10mm will likely be easier to handle, amply strong and be perfectly acceptable in terms of stretching.

Look at what diameter the current halyard is (note old ropes tend to fluff up and measure slightly more than their nominal size), and follow that, or at least take it as a starting point. You may find that your pulleys and cleats will struggle to accommodate anything much larger.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

I've done this several times; replacing running rigging is a routine maintenance task. I agree that butting the old and new together and using a few stitches of whipping twine to secure them is good. I'd seal both the ends of the ropes first (if not already sealed with a flame or a hot knife) so the stitches can't pull through. I usually put a few turns of electrical tape over the join to reduce the chance of snagging.

Main thing is to be gentle as you pull the new halliard through, and stop and investigate any places where there's resistance. It shouldn't be necessary to use force; it might catch slightly going round sheaves, but it shouldn't jam solid. If it does, investigate first; use force last! Your join is not very strong, and a big heave can break it. In my experience, the usual cause of a jam is failure to make sure the join is smooth enough to pass through sheaves; hence the electrical tape.

 

[Refueler]

When I remove mast from boat - I usually remove halyards using the light line etc. Mast stays through winter with the light lines in place and halyards get a clean and stowed away ready to pull through start of season by the light line ...

 

[wallacebob]

If similar lengths, swap old topping lift with main halyard. They are usually same Then get new halyard; that’s the more important bit of string. Don’t stress about dyneema in your case. ( sorry , do the main renewal first!) Mousing is often easier, for reasons stated.

 

[Fantasie 19]

I need to change the rope halyards for the main sail lift. The rope has frayed and the outer has separated from the inner. Can I just secure the new rope to the old, but the ends and wrap in tape and then slowly pull the new through? Or should I either get the mast stepped or have someone climb the mast to replace the rope?
Also anyone know what sort of size I should be using and any particular type of rope to use? I have had the boat for a little while but not assessed these ropes before and the owners club info doesn't have much information except for basic dimensions.

As the others have said though I don't bother taping over the butt/join... as to size, on my 20 footer (so much the same size) I use 6mm braid on braid..

 

[William_H]

it is not clear which line you are replacing. The halyard lifts the head of the main sail up the mast track. I would suggest using dyneema here. It has much lower stretch than polyester. When you haul on the main sheet you are effectively pulling the sail down against the halyard. The other line you may be referring to is the topping lift. A rope that goes to the end of the boom to hold the boom up. Not so critical and polyester will be fine.
Just to make sure you under stand the stitching of ends together to pull through. Make sure the ends of the ropes are sealed and not fraying. Lay the 2 ends touching one another end to end then using a needle and whipping twine pass the needle and twine through from one side of one rope to the other about 1cm from end. Take that needle then to a point 1cm in from the end of the other rope and p[ass it right through side ways. Then take the needle back to the first rope end and push through the rope at a point around the circumference by 90 degrees. Go back to the second rope end. Do this 4 times. Tie threads together. You may end up with a gap between rope ends not a problem. Ther important part is to get the join to flex like the rope itself when going around pulleys with the join not fatter than the ropes. ol'will

 

[Daydream believer]

I have stitched loops in the ends of my lazyjacks. I have done this using whipping twine which has then been bound round the rope.. Then any time I want to join on a mousing line ( I have a pair which also have loops fitted) I can just join the loops easily & cut the joining cord when finish, leaving the loops in place.
I remove the lazyjacks every years so it is worth the effort.
On my dynema main & jib halyard I removed some core & tucked the outer covering back inside itself. I then put a couple of stitches to secure it. This makes a lovely loop to pull on & finishes the rope off very neatly.

 

[Refueler]

I have stitched loops in the ends of my lazyjacks. I have done this using whipping twine which has then been bound round the rope.. Then any time I want to join on a mousing line ( I have a pair which also have loops fitted) I can just join the loops easily & cut the joining cord when finish, leaving the loops in place.
I remove the lazyjacks every years so it is worth the effort.
On my dynema main & jib halyard I removed some core & tucked the outer covering back inside itself. I then put a couple of stitches to secure it. This makes a lovely loop to pull on & finishes the rope off very neatly.

All my halyards had such twine loops ... but over the years they broke ..... thought about remaking them - but never got round to it. When I replaced all running lines .... I just stitched / taped without.

When using loops ... I still needed tape as the rope end without would catch as it tried to go over sheave ....

 

[pij27]

Thanks for the advice. It is the halyard I am changing. Will get some whipping cord and a needle to attach the two together.