Changing anode and fuel filters advice please!

[Richard_Peevor]

Hi -

I wonder if I can ask for your advice on a couple of things:

1) I would like to change the fuel filter on my volvo MD5. I have the correct filter but I was not sure what I have to do regarding the flow of diesel? Do I have to empty / shut off the tank? Any advice regarding pitfalls/ helpful hints would be most appreciated.

2) Likewise I would like to change the anode on the saildrive. I have the correct anode but have not yet had the chance to look at how the "conical bit" comes off to allow access to the anode. Again any advice would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Rich

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[JamesS]

Can't help you with the anode I'm afraid but I've got a Volvo 2003 so when changing the fuel filter I just switch off the main fuel tap and catch any spillage in an old oil container with a large square hole cut in the side.

Hope this helps,

Cheers

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[starboard]

I have an MD5B on my yacht. I shut off fuel at tank prior to changing filter. Dont forget afterwards you will have to bleed air out of system prior to starting engine. The large ring anode is held in place by 4 allen screws. However to acces these you will have to remove propellor. I am unsure which prop you have as I have a 2 blade Radice folding prop on my leg. If you need more info send me a PM.
Paul.

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[happychap]

While changing my fuel filter I spilt a little of the stinky stuff and the smell fairly lingers. I was then told to 1) use the drain cock and take the bulk away 2) loosen the filter then use a 'good' plastic bag over the filter and unscrew through the plastic ie plastic then removed complete with filter and inevitable spillage


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[philwebb]

Hi, I have an MD5b with saildrive and find it very reliable. I have 2 fuel filters, the one
nearest the fuel tank I have replaced with a CAV type with a glass bowl - you can get
the filters for this from anywhere eg Halfords. To replace this one I turn off the fuel at the tank and take it off with a small washing up bowl underneath. Have rags or kitchen towel handy. The filter on the engine is more difficult and so far I have not found a
substitute for the Volvo part. Undo the central bolt and remove the bowl complete
with the filter use rags to catch spillage. Clean out and replace filter. The large rubber
sealing ring is best replace although it is hard to locate. I have used a little grease
to hold it in place while you locate the bowl underneath. After changing the filters bleed
air out of the line starting at the filter nearest the tank, then the filter on the engine .
(Bleed screw on top) then bleed air at the injector by loosening the bolt holding the
banjo connector on the end of the injector. If your engine does not start, repeat the
bleeding (!) procedure and try again.
As for the ring anode, the plastimo part is much cheaper than the volvo one.
The cone is probably screwed on. I dont have one , my prop is held on with a large
split pin. Use a new split pin- cheaper than a prop. Clean the saildrive where it
meets the anode and check continuity between the drive and the anode when you put the new anode on. Use a multimeter on ohms x1 range. Reading should be low.
One other thing use loctite on the allen key bolts holding the anode on.
When you are servicing dont forget to look at the impeller!
Regards, Phil

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[tom52]

I asked the same question about prop removal last winter.

I the forumites came up with the answer for me.

If its a Volvo 120S Saildrive then the conical thing is the prop nut. Remove the the allen bolt in its centre then place a tommy bar through the holes in the cone and unscew it. It may need persuading with a hammer !

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