geem
Well-Known Member
If a cell shorts in your lead starter battery then you can only produce 10V if you are lucky. You won't be starting your engine. The DC/DC charger will be working flat out to raise the voltage.I'd change the electrical system.
My view is that the starter battery should only be used for starting. Normally this will only take a few joules of energy ( a fraction of a kWh or a few amp hours .... which isn't really a unit of energy unless you know the voltage)
I connect all the charging circuits to the LiFePO4 battery bank, through appropriate charge controller and fuses). Because LiFePO4 batteries are far more effective at storing energy that lead acid.
The starter battery is charged by a B to B with the correct charging profile. That way the starter battery is always fully charged. The single point of failure is the B to B.
This can always bypassed with a mechanical switch, which brings you back to Paul's original question. The answer to which is it depends on the specific electrical system he has installed. There's no general answer to the question.
It's a how long is a piece of string question.
However, by using a B to B to charge a dedicated starter battery, you are much less likely to have a "dead" starter battery.
For the record, I have 4 @ 105 amp hr at 12v LiFePO4 batteries, connected in parallel. Each battery has an internal BMS which limits the maximum discharge current to 200 amps, so 800 amps total.
With DIY batteries, you can bypass the BMS fairly easily in an emergency to start the engine. I suspect leaving the bms in the system but bridging from the battery -ve and the NH fuse live side with jump leads to the starter wires would work fine.
Whether your system will start the engine through the BMS will depend on the inrush current of your starter motor. I have heard predictions of up to 10 times the run current but the only way to know is to try it.