Chain Marking
- Thread starter Neeves
- Start date
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
There's some light rust appearing on a few of the links this year (Maggi Aqua7 chain, new 2017, direct from Maggi so definitely genuine). Perhaps I should paint the whole chain!
We never drop piles of chain in one spot, that'd be a silly thing to do. The clutch lever provides far better control than the down button, because it's a clutch, so you can adjust the friction and thus the speed the chain pays out. We drop the anchor in freefall, because once we've decided where to drop it, we want it in that spot quickly (e.g. when aiming for a small patch of sand surrounded by Posidonia). We instantly know when the anchor has reached bottom, as the weight of it is removed from the equation and the chain payout speed slows down considerably or stops. I then continue to control the friction and payout speed, laying out chain on the bottom as the boat drifts back (or gently reverses on calm days), until it reaches the desired scope and is snubbed to set it.
The only thing is the friction brake on the clutch needs maintenance about twice a season, which takes maybe 15 minutes (take off clutch cones, wipe off dirty grease and replace with new grease). I've met people who do not use their clutches because they're seized up from lack of maintenance (which is also bad as the clutch protects the windlass gearbox). I suspect most simply never tried and don't know the advantages of it (which is why they would think it causes piles of chain, when in fact it provides much finer control than downwinching).
I reiterate that I'm delighted that your system works for you. It appears that you recognise the dangers and mitigate against them through careful deployment using the clutch and free fall. I remain just a little bemused that you should highlight how you ridicule those who lower their anchor on the windlass. (And I can assure you that my windlass clutch is maintained and greased and does work as designed.) Lowering own the windlass is a perfectly acceptable and seamanlike way of anchoring and just because its isn't your way doesn't mean that your way is better. I also don't make a habit of missing the patch of sand I want to lower our anchor onto....
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Yngmar,
We too are bemused that we never see anyone deploying chain by gravity/using the clutch. It does seem as if most people simply do not know it might be possible. The idea that this results in a big pile of chain is odd as most times vessels are moving, commonly backwards, and some people do then drift back until the anchor bites and power set. If the anchorage is dead calm - there will be a big pile of chain whether you power drop or gravity drop and if people do not power set we would tend to be very wary of their anchoring ability anyway.
We might not ridicule their deployment techniques - but power deployment in a stationary yacht, no power setting - we might not ridicule - but we might move if the offending yacht is upwind.
The idea that by simply observing a yacht deploying chain, under power, and define how much chain they have deployed and thus calculate their scope is a complete fallacy - windlass speeds vary - it is impossible to tell amount deployed.
The only way to determine amount deployed is counting marks (hence the thread) or using a chain counter.
Sorry to hear you see initial signs of rust. Do not paint the chain, it will not last (as your marks do not last) and when you come to regalvanise there will be a significant issue from the residual paint on the rode, see a post previous. It is quite safe for you to re-galvanise - the chain will be returned to you with the same strength as you have now. Try to find a galvaniser who will re-galvanise without acid washing/pickling - so grit blast - as this will minimise any risk of hydrogen embrittlement. Some galvanisers will have grit blasting on site - but you might need to search about.
Jonathan
We too are bemused that we never see anyone deploying chain by gravity/using the clutch. It does seem as if most people simply do not know it might be possible. The idea that this results in a big pile of chain is odd as most times vessels are moving, commonly backwards, and some people do then drift back until the anchor bites and power set. If the anchorage is dead calm - there will be a big pile of chain whether you power drop or gravity drop and if people do not power set we would tend to be very wary of their anchoring ability anyway.
We might not ridicule their deployment techniques - but power deployment in a stationary yacht, no power setting - we might not ridicule - but we might move if the offending yacht is upwind.
The idea that by simply observing a yacht deploying chain, under power, and define how much chain they have deployed and thus calculate their scope is a complete fallacy - windlass speeds vary - it is impossible to tell amount deployed.
The only way to determine amount deployed is counting marks (hence the thread) or using a chain counter.
Sorry to hear you see initial signs of rust. Do not paint the chain, it will not last (as your marks do not last) and when you come to regalvanise there will be a significant issue from the residual paint on the rode, see a post previous. It is quite safe for you to re-galvanise - the chain will be returned to you with the same strength as you have now. Try to find a galvaniser who will re-galvanise without acid washing/pickling - so grit blast - as this will minimise any risk of hydrogen embrittlement. Some galvanisers will have grit blasting on site - but you might need to search about.
Jonathan
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
We have watched countless times as boats did exactly that. Our clutch lever is not a lever, it's a winch handle on a vertical windlass, not very easy to operate. Motoring it down is perfect for us and I can even do it singlehanded from the cockpit, although I rarely do except when berthing stern-to, when I always do.
AntarcticPilot
Well-Known Member
Paint that will last on an anchor chain is also plastic . Oil based paints wouldn't last very long! And even oil-based paints polymerize to a form of plastic. I suspect (can't prove it either way) that paint wearing off might well put more plastic into the oceans than the wear on a cable tie. But I don't think this is a basis on which to choose one method over the other.
GHA
Well-Known Member
:encouragement:
One knot - 5m, up to 25m/ 5 knots then 30m is 2 bits string back to 1 knot.
Same bits string for must be over a decade now.
D
Deleted member 36384
Guest
I am a bit of string man as well.
I use doubled over string, with a small cable tie to choke it on the chain link. 1 yellow at 5m, 2 at 10, 3 at 15, 4 at 20. I then moved to orange twine for every 20m and add the yellow as required. At 80m it is 4 x orange. I regalvanisd the chain about 2 years ago and a similar system was in place which had to be removed and was at least 10 years old.
I use doubled over string, with a small cable tie to choke it on the chain link. 1 yellow at 5m, 2 at 10, 3 at 15, 4 at 20. I then moved to orange twine for every 20m and add the yellow as required. At 80m it is 4 x orange. I regalvanisd the chain about 2 years ago and a similar system was in place which had to be removed and was at least 10 years old.