Whiskey Bravo
Well-Known Member
Anybody got any experience of Cape Verde Islands, I'm off there next week and would appreciate any advice/information etc.
Cape Verde
- Thread starter Whiskey Bravo
- Start date
Gazza
Well-Known Member
Hi,
I spent a week at Mindelo in November 2003 as part of a Transatlantic circuit. The harbour was just an anchorage at that time, although I understand that a small marina has now come into operation. The holding seemed good in the harbour.
Boat boys could be a problem. I was hailed by Alcinde who was around the entrance in a dinghy, and I used him without problems throughout my stay - he was a useful source in getting gas bottles refilled, etc.. I inadvertantly sparked a small boat boy war by going ashore in the dark to listen to music and foolishly took up an offer to take my painter at the dinghy dock. This individual then decided that I was "his" boat and fell out with Alcinde to the extent of throwing him into the harbour (or so I was told).
Had no security problems, people friendly and helpful. Reasonable for stocking up for the next leg, with a good market. Worth bearing in mind that I picked up the inevitable cockroaches from here, possibly from food from the market.
I went with a group of yachties on the ferry to the neighbouring island of Santa Antao where we were dropped off by taxi inland and then walked through some spectacular country back to the port (although the idiot taxi driver dropped us off in the wrong place and it took us some time to find the path).
I suspect that facilities have improved since my visit. Certainly worth a look, although some of the other islands are pretty bleak.
Hope this helps.
I spent a week at Mindelo in November 2003 as part of a Transatlantic circuit. The harbour was just an anchorage at that time, although I understand that a small marina has now come into operation. The holding seemed good in the harbour.
Boat boys could be a problem. I was hailed by Alcinde who was around the entrance in a dinghy, and I used him without problems throughout my stay - he was a useful source in getting gas bottles refilled, etc.. I inadvertantly sparked a small boat boy war by going ashore in the dark to listen to music and foolishly took up an offer to take my painter at the dinghy dock. This individual then decided that I was "his" boat and fell out with Alcinde to the extent of throwing him into the harbour (or so I was told).
Had no security problems, people friendly and helpful. Reasonable for stocking up for the next leg, with a good market. Worth bearing in mind that I picked up the inevitable cockroaches from here, possibly from food from the market.
I went with a group of yachties on the ferry to the neighbouring island of Santa Antao where we were dropped off by taxi inland and then walked through some spectacular country back to the port (although the idiot taxi driver dropped us off in the wrong place and it took us some time to find the path).
I suspect that facilities have improved since my visit. Certainly worth a look, although some of the other islands are pretty bleak.
Hope this helps.
Finbar
Well-Known Member
I sailed the Islands on a yacht chartered from Kai Brosmann in the Marina in Mindelo a couple of years ago and enjoyed it. The sailing is good and there are no facilities away from Mindelo, so it is unspoilt. The local people are laid back and friendly and the music they make, Morna which is somewhat based on Portuguese fado is haunting and beautiful, bit like latin american blues. Some of the islands are being developed for tourism, with mixed results and mixed local views. You will be expected to hire a boat boy everywhere, check the rate, about 10 Euros, and if you do this your dinghy will be safe and well looked after. Do not underpay or overpay! Water is a problem everywhere, generaly only available in 25l cans from the local standpipe which may have a queue of locals, so again the boatboys come into their own. Take enough diesel for your round trip. Do not rely on chartplotter navigation, there are significant local variations from electronic maps, and navigation lights may or may not be lit at night. I have memories of entering Tarrafal on Sao Tiago at night guided only by the lights and noise from a massive beach party when the plotter was putting us a couple of cables inland. Eat carefully and drink bottled water, and mind hygiene on board. There is still a fair chance of a dose of the runs before you acclimatise. Not to everyones taste, has been described before on this forum as the **** Merde islands. Good snorkelling, but lots of fish, some very big knocking around. Regarded as prosperous by the people in Senegal and Guinea Bisseau who attempt the passage in fishing boats to emmigrate, but undeveloped by our standards. Insure yourself and catch an aeroplane if you need medical care. Definitely an interesting place,
capnsensible
Well-Known Member
Only stopped in Mindelo, 2000 and 2005. Got to say we loved it. Hard work keeping your wits about you, be streetwise, great. If you are used to N. Europe all comforts, reasoning with people and hygene, you may not enjoy yourself. Keep it in context and then you will maybe enjoy too.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
dulcibella
Well-Known Member
Last spring we had six weeks there, stopping at Palmeira and Santa Maria on Sal, Tarrafal on Sao Nicolau and Mindelo on Sao Vicente. Brief comments on each:
Palmeira: Large anchorage off small fishing village adjoining a substantial commercial harbour. Very African in feel, local people friendly and helpful with none of the pilfering problems mentioned on Noonsite. Water (distilled and delivered by tanker) available at square blue structure in village (1 escudo - about one cent - per litre paid to the crocheting lady who supervises). Cold water showers for about 50 escudos on square behind fishing quay - pay the lady and be sparing with the water or she will tell you off. Tiny bakery and a little fresh stuff in village, but for real shopping (and diesel) catch an aluguer to Espargos. Port office is not labelled but has posh shiny doors and faces the police station across a side street - visit police then port office - very friendly.
Santa Maria - open anchorage off this tourist resort at the south end of the island. Like any other tourist resort but the beach is fabulous - indeed the only real attraction. Anchorage is rolly when the trades are blowing (i.e. nearly all the time). No obvious formalities.
Tarrafal: Anchorage on N side of outer part of harbour off stony beach and impressive mountainside. Slipway or beach in harbour for dinghy landing. Friendly and laid-back. Quite a lot of French spoken. Basic shops and a couple of restaurants (Alice's the best - huge quantities of fish at low price in what feels like an Edwardian household). Port office on hill out of main square. This is a high island which (unlike Sal) gets rain, so some valleys in the hills grow tropical fruits and distil grogue.
Mindelo: Kai Brosmann's marina is pretty much up and running - I gather that loos, showers and fuel materialised after we left. Moorings are med-style - stern-to on a pickup line for downwind berths and stern-to with bow on a buoy for upwind berths. Unless you need a lot of shoreside delights, the anchorage just west of the marina is probably more comfortable. Wide (ish) range of shops and restaurants - try Pica Pau, Chave d'Ouro, Cafe Mindelo and the cafe in the French Cultural centre - all enjoyable but completely different. Official on far side of bay before the commercial port, and clearance from an office within the commercial port complex.
Have a good time!
Palmeira: Large anchorage off small fishing village adjoining a substantial commercial harbour. Very African in feel, local people friendly and helpful with none of the pilfering problems mentioned on Noonsite. Water (distilled and delivered by tanker) available at square blue structure in village (1 escudo - about one cent - per litre paid to the crocheting lady who supervises). Cold water showers for about 50 escudos on square behind fishing quay - pay the lady and be sparing with the water or she will tell you off. Tiny bakery and a little fresh stuff in village, but for real shopping (and diesel) catch an aluguer to Espargos. Port office is not labelled but has posh shiny doors and faces the police station across a side street - visit police then port office - very friendly.
Santa Maria - open anchorage off this tourist resort at the south end of the island. Like any other tourist resort but the beach is fabulous - indeed the only real attraction. Anchorage is rolly when the trades are blowing (i.e. nearly all the time). No obvious formalities.
Tarrafal: Anchorage on N side of outer part of harbour off stony beach and impressive mountainside. Slipway or beach in harbour for dinghy landing. Friendly and laid-back. Quite a lot of French spoken. Basic shops and a couple of restaurants (Alice's the best - huge quantities of fish at low price in what feels like an Edwardian household). Port office on hill out of main square. This is a high island which (unlike Sal) gets rain, so some valleys in the hills grow tropical fruits and distil grogue.
Mindelo: Kai Brosmann's marina is pretty much up and running - I gather that loos, showers and fuel materialised after we left. Moorings are med-style - stern-to on a pickup line for downwind berths and stern-to with bow on a buoy for upwind berths. Unless you need a lot of shoreside delights, the anchorage just west of the marina is probably more comfortable. Wide (ish) range of shops and restaurants - try Pica Pau, Chave d'Ouro, Cafe Mindelo and the cafe in the French Cultural centre - all enjoyable but completely different. Official on far side of bay before the commercial port, and clearance from an office within the commercial port complex.
Have a good time!
