Can you get a chop saw with detachable saw?

My Dad lent me a cheapo Screwfix own-brand mitre saw, because he had bought another one from Lidl. The Screwfix one died within a week of me getting it. Made a noise as though the gearbox had swallowed a bag of gravel. His Lidl one is still going strong!
I replaced it with a second-hand Makita from eBay, £70, and it has been brilliant. Considerably more accurate cutting and I am much more confident that it is not going to act up.
IME you need to have a bit of confidence in tools that are as scary as this!
I used to buy a new one via ebay every couple of years, it came in a nice box that i could use to send the old one in, when i had sold it on an ebay auction. i generally got 1/2 the price of the new one. i always had a compound saw in good accurate condition
 
No.1 son, a cabinet maker, worked in Oak for many weeks making a large job 3 years back.

He started a new job in Ash. The two have a different 'feel' to their sawdust. Oak is a little 'grippy' whilst Ash is quite 'slippery'.

The Ash enabled his left hand to slip on the work piece whilst he was passing it along and it shot under the guard of the still rotating blade.......

= minus one left index finger top joint.

Guards should stop this happening ideally and blades should have a brake on them, but there are some situations where it is possible to beat both

defences.
 
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As someone who is more than capable of decapitating themselves with a roll of electrical tape, I will take the warnings seriously.
I've decided to stick with the hand saw and mitre block for most of the bits I'm going to do, but the circular saw will be useful for cutting the straight lengths. I'll be extremely careful!
 
As someone who is more than capable of decapitating themselves with a roll of electrical tape, I will take the warnings seriously.
I've decided to stick with the hand saw and mitre block for most of the bits I'm going to do, but the circular saw will be useful for cutting the straight lengths. I'll be extremely careful!

Manufacturers guards are usually more of a hindrance than a help on a saw bench.

I usually remove a top guard from a circular saw bench (not permitted if there is an insurance liability by an employer or if you wish to be covered by any other

form of accident insurance), but I do encourage the use of a riving knife, the curved fixed blade behind the saw.

This helps to prevent the lifting of a timber when passed through the saw and stops the timber from closing up after the saw.

Always try to use a push stick or similar device..... Youtube has many good videos on how best to use a circular saw bench and most other tools and machinery.

S
 
As someone who is more than capable of decapitating themselves with a roll of electrical tape, I will take the warnings seriously.
I've decided to stick with the hand saw and mitre block for most of the bits I'm going to do, but the circular saw will be useful for cutting the straight lengths. I'll be extremely careful!
Maybe something like this would be safer and almost as quick... http://www.tooled-up.com/product/draper-550mm-precision-mitre-saw/136434/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CNmClYzcprsCFZLKtAod6TQA5w
 
The most versatile saw I ever had was a radial arm saw like this but bigger - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEWALT-RA...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2586881851 It would cross cut up to 600mm and the blade can be swiveled 90 degrees for ripping or cutting 8 x 4 ply sheets. Blade also can be set horizontal. Dado head & router accessories etc. Problem is that even second hand they're not cheap.

Now have one of these as space is restricted - http://www.einhell.com/com_en/shop/4862/4891/4892/4893/4895/sliding-mitre-saw-rt-sm-430-u.html - quite accurate and adequate for most jobs except large panels where I use hand held circular saw.
 
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