Can anybody walk me through some transom re-instatement issues?

Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

Okey dokey guys, progress report with questions!:-
I have bought all the stuff I believe from your input I will need to put this baby back together. I got the stuff from west systems. I have also cut a piece of 3/4 inch ply the whole width of the transom, made a template and cut it to size. I have left approximately 10mm around the edges all the way around. I have drilled holes at 2" centres and am ready to rock. My first question is a simple one. I want to know the best way to bevel the edges (according to oldsaltoz a minimum of 5" all the way round the sides and the underside) Should I use an orbital sander/discsander(and if one of these do I use 60 or 80 grit) or grinder (and if a grinder what size and type of disc) Also, I have some microfibres for the structural filling which I intend to use around the transom but will this be too hard to sand where the hull sides turn round the transom??? I also have some LOW DENSITY FILLER FOR THE FAIRING (407 I believe) Shouuld I use part microfibres and part low density filler to make the shaping easier or is this a no-no??? And how about rounding the edges of the fibreglass to make laying the cloth easier? Do I use the same tool for this??? Also, I have bi-axial cloth and roving woven. I will not be able to use one piece to come round from the sides, across the transom, back round the other side and under the underside of the hull due to the shape. How do I best get round this or is it not important??? (i.e does it matter if each layer is made up of several cuts butted together, with each next layer laid like brickwork (i.e with the joints staggered so you never get one joint the full depth of the laminate) or do I have to laminate each layer as one piece and somehow cut a slit wherever the angle dictates it??? How about the width of the transom, since I have already cut the back off of the boat would it offer any benefits if I made the transom ply thicker and used more layers of laminate??? And one more thing (forgive me, I know I ask a lot of questions, lol!) I bought the west systems how to dvd which I have watched several times, and one thing I noticed was the suggestion that during a repair, the largest piece of laminate should always be put in first. Does this apply in the case of my repair, or is that only when doing patches??? I have already stated that I feel it would be difficult to re-instate each layer in one piece, hence the question!
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

<<<I have cut a piece of 3/4 inch ply the whole width of the transom, made a template and cut it to size. I have left approximately 10mm around the edges all the way around. I have drilled holes at 2" centres and am ready to rock.>>>

Well done, some progress being made.

<<<My first question: I want to know the best way to bevel the edges (according to oldsaltoz a minimum of 5" all the way round the sides and the underside) Should I use an orbital sander/disc sander(and if one of these do I use 60 or 80 grit) or grinder (and if a grinder what size and type of disc)>>>

An orbital will be slow work but doable with a 40 grit, I use a grinder with disc designed to grind concrete available from good tool supply shops. east to control and will not clog.

<<< I have some micro fibres for the structural filling which I intend to use around the transom but will this be too hard to sand where the hull sides turn round the transom>>>

Not if you use the grinder.

<<< I also have some LOW DENSITY FILLER FOR THE FAIRING (407 I believe) Should I use part micro fibres and part low density filler to make the shaping easier or is this a no-no>>>

If you mix the two you will weaken the structure, use the 407 for filler when shaping only.

<<< And how about rounding the edges of the fibreglass to make laying the cloth easier? Do I use the same tool for this?>>>

Yes.

<<< I have bi-axial cloth and roving woven. I will not be able to use one piece to come round from the sides, across the transom, back round the other side and under the underside of the hull due to the shape. How do I best get round this or is it not important??? (i.e does it matter if each layer is made up of several cuts butted together, with each next layer laid like brickwork (i.e with the joints staggered so you never get one joint the full depth of the laminate) or do I have to laminate each layer as one piece and somehow cut a slit wherever the angle dictates it?>>>

Lay the cloth over the as big an area as you can and slit if you have to get the right shape, make sure you get an overlap when slitting, or add a small strip.

<<< How about the width of the transom, since I have already cut the back off of the boat would it offer any benefits if I made the transom ply thicker and used more layers of laminate?>>>

If the ply is strong enough for the job making it thicker and adding extra layers will only add weight.


<<< I bought the west systems how to dvd which I have watched several times, and one thing I noticed was the suggestion that during a repair, the largest piece of laminate should always be put in first. Does this apply in the case of my repair, or is that only when doing patches? I have already stated that I feel it would be difficult to re-instate each layer in one piece, hence the question! >>>

There are many advantages to placing the largest sheet first for repairs and new work, the only one that really matters is the fact that after rolling you have a much better surface to work on, the rolling will help flatten the small high spots and fill the lows, as each layer builds up it will bet better. If you start with small bits they may be high spots when you finish.

When laying up don't forget to add a layer of roving's between 2 or 3 of cloth layers and always finish with roving's to ensure no exposed ends on last layer.

Also remember to roll out any excess resin, you are looking for a one to one ratio of resin and cloth by weight with epoxy. Not 3 resin to one cloth like standard poly resins.

I hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

What grinder would you use oldsaltoz, 4" or 9" and I imagine you would use grinding discs, but having tried this with a dust mask and glasses, I wondered if you could give me any tips that would enable me to actually see what I am doing?! My glasses/goggles steam up as soon as I use a dust mask? How do the pro's get around this? Do use use some sort of anti-mist windscreen spray or wet your eye-protection or something else? Cheers geeze!
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

A 4 inch or 105 mm grinder is fine, If you are right handed use the wind by keeping on left, the dust from the whell will go to the right and away from you.
If no breeze set up a fan

Goggles fogging means you are using the wrong mask type, don't use the silly paper jobs, get a proper mask that fits closer over your nose and you will have no fogging problems and your lungs will be happier too.

Work from top to bottom, you will have more control this way.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......
 
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