Can anybody walk me through some transom re-instatement issues?

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johnnyboy

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I have started to replace the rotten old transom in my boat as I have a heavy 140hp motor to fit ready for sumer. I've had to remove the outer skin of my twin skins. It is very similar to a boston whaler or a dell quay dory. I hope you can see my link to my shareaproject pages, but am new to the site so it might take me a few goes to get it displayed.
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O.k, no link came up, never mind, I am sure some kind person will help me out with that, please Dan, lol. So the big problem for me is that I am not quite sure what I'm doing with the ply and I've never done any fibreglassing before. What I really need is a comprehensive list of materials and tools needed to complete the job, as well as step by step instructions. I did buy a book from amazon called the fibreglass repair manual but it really doesn't cover my situation at all. ANy help much appreciated.
 
[ QUOTE ]
O.k, no link came up

[/ QUOTE ] Just try typing, or copying and pasting the url. If the forum software recognises it as a url it'll convert it into a clickable link anyway. Sometime links don't work but then we can copy and paste into the address bar.
 
Try this

I would be very carefull about the amount of weight you are building into this craft and the height of your console is IMHO much to high. I have been in these boats in a seaway, and one of the main reasons that it is acceptable to go out in deep water is the "unsinkable" nature, so even when (not if) they top up with water, you have a chance of bailing them out again (been there done that!) Increase the weight significantly + wet foam between the skins = not good news!

They are designed for the passengers to be sat below the level of the hull. That way you are less likely to be thrown out /tip over in a tight turn.
 
This style of boat ie high performance open 17ft or so are extemely popular hear in west oz. (usually aluminium or f/g) Unfortunately they can get you int a lot of trouble. They can capsize fairly easily in a broach in big waves or even end for end if you hit a big wave front with lots of power.

We seem to have similar tragedies almost monthly. So be very carefull of the horsepower when it comes up rough.
This style of boat was probably instrumental in the government here bring in the mandatory Recreational Skippers Ticket in a bid to reduce tragedies. Along with mandatory boat registration and radio carriage. Just cos it has a steering wheel doesn't mean you drive it like a car.
Sorry I hope I don't sound too rude but do be carefull. olewill
 
G'day John and welcome aboard as a newie to the forums.

Took a look at the pictures and have to say what a pity you did not ask this question 'before' you took to it with an axe.

Too late now, but the job is less work if the transom is replaced from the inside.

You will have to measure the thickness of the existing ply for replacement material, at least as thick as the original providing the engine is within specification for that particular boat, otherwise you will have increase the thickness.

After you have removed all the old ply you need to thoroughly clean the area and then sand it, then wipe with some Acetone to remove the last of the dust and any other contamination.

Make a template of the transom for cutting the ply out, leaving a 10 mm gap on the sides and bottom. Drill the newly cut transom with a 6 mm drill every 50 mm in a grid pattern, then mix some Epoxy resin and hardener in a wide shallow container (About half a cup full), now add one third of a cup of Methylated Spirits to the mix and stir till thin, roll or brush this all over the ply, the edges will suck it up so will need a few coats, keep applying the mix till you have a glossy finish and the resin no longer soaks in. Then add a coat of resin that has not been thinned. Do this wet on tacky. If at any stage the resin goes off and cures, you must wash off the residue with a running hose and a plastic scotch-brite kitchen scourer, start at the top and rub till the water no longer forms beads. Do this BEFORE you do any sanding on cured resin.

Next, mix more renin (about a cup fill) and add some Micro-Fibres to the mix till it's about the consistency of peanut butter. Spread thin on the forward side of the ply and place it into the hull with some off cuts holding it off the bottom and sides, use some timbers on the inside and clamp the inner skin to the new ply, any excess mixture will be squeezed out through the grid of holes along with any trapped air;

Use this material to fill in around the bottom and sides, take care not to clue the support bits you have under and around the sides of the ply.

Clean up as much of the micro fibre mix left whilst still wet because it's very hard to sand off after it has cured.

When cured (24 hrs +) wash as above and sand with a 200 grit, just enough to flatten any highs and remove the high gloss; do this with the sand paper on a block not your hand.

Preparation to glassing:
Start with a grinder and go right round the transom at the point the old glass finishes and grind a bevel so the old glass finishes as close to flush with the new ply as practical and taper back at least 150 mm, also round off the corners on both sides and under the hull, then taper back 150 mm.

There will no doubt be some areas with voids left around the transom, like the after removing the support wedges that held the transom off the sides and bottom. You must fill them prior to applying any glass, in structural areas use the micro-fibres and in areas that just need a bit of building up use "closed cell" micro-balloons, micro spheres or 'Q' cells mixed with epoxy resin to a paste that can be spread and is very easy to sand (With a block in hand at all times).

When this has cured and you have washed and sanded as above:

You will need to pre-cut your fibreglass cloth, note when using epoxy resins, only use cloth designed for epoxy not chopped strand mat.

Use crow’s foot or bi-directional cloth, around 300 gram should make easy work of it for a beginner. 250 gram is also ok, also some rovings around 250 gram. Plan on a minimum of 6 layers, 2 x bidirectional layers and one of rovings then repeat.

You will also need a box of Latex rubber gloves, a small 50 mm steel threaded roller also called a consolidation roller, and this helps remove trapped air in the glass resin application. Spare mixing containers, I use 2 litre ice cream containers but any wide shallow container will do. You can use standard 10 mm nap rollers around 80 mm wide, buy the large rollers and cut them down to 80 mm, throw them away when finished for the day or if they start to break up.


Start by mixing small batches (a cup full) and apply a coat of resin over the area to be glassed, then place the glass onto the wet resin, use the resin ruler to wet out the glass, take your time. Once the first layer of glass in place and fully wet out (No light or whitish areas) add another, roll with the resin roller till wet out then apply the consolidating roller; this will not only remove trapped air but also some resin, this is normal as you do not want any extra resin in the glass, it will weaken it. Then apply the layer of roving without adding any resin, use the consolidating roller and it should wet out, add a little more resin if needed. Repeat this to get your 6 layers. Let this cure, then wash and sand as above.

Finishing:
Mix more resin and closed cell balloons and apply to the glassed areas, use a good straight edge from top to bottom of the transom to ensure it's nice and flat, you might even add some guide battens on each side for a smoother straighter finish.

Sand the flat transom area with a long board that has a strip of 200 grit sandpaper fixed to it, sand only with a figure 8 motion to avoid low spots.

Fitting on and through the transom:
The most common cause of transom failures is water getting into the ply. If you would like to avoid doing this again down the track do the following.

Outboard through transom bolts; drill the hole at least 20 to 30 mm oversize, fill with epoxy resin and Micro-fibres, after curing redrill the holes to the bole thread size and add some sealant when inserting the bolt. Screw on fitting, if is not possible to through bolt an item, drill a hole through one skin only oversize to at least allow 15 mm all around the new fixing screw (screw shank a the widest point plus 30 mm, fill with epoxy and micro-fibres, let it cure and redrill to required size and depth, leaving 15 mm or more past the deepest point, better if drilled though and filled.


I hope this helps.


Avagoodweekend......
 
How on earth have you got my link to work on your post? I thought I had tried everything! On another boating website that I have that exact link on my posts under a different name and it works fine. Can you tell me where I am going wrong?
 
That's an interesting point about the centre of gravity. What type of boat were you referring to regarding the trip you made and what sort of weather conditions were you in? I have been led to believe by several different groups of divers that they are extremely stable at anchor and an ex-navy helmsman has told me that they used to do wavejumping as part of their training in these boats. That said I am aware that they are known for having a wet ride as well as a very hard ride. This is why I built the console in this manner, as I have found from rough weather journeys in ribs, it is often far more comfortable to stand. The risk of falling over the side will be greatly reduced as I am at present designing a stainless steel handrail which will go round the entire boat at well above waist height. I would also use a harness if conditions got unexpectedly bad while out at sea. I do not intend to use the boat in any more than a force 2 or 3, although I do respect the unpredictable nature of the weather. The issue about the watelogged foam is a fair one. This console I am using is a temporary one that I have knocked up just for the season, and will be replaced with a lightweight fibreglass one during winter lay-up when I will be replacing the stringers, closed cell foam, and the floor. Thanks for your comments, I'll bear them in mind. I hope to post some more pictures soon including some of these features. Cheers
 
The difference appears to be that you have used commas (,) instead of dots (.) Look at the link and you will see that the link stops where it gets to the first comma.
 
oh don't be daft, you can't change a url by changing commas or full stops or the link will no longer work, the two links are identical. The reason is that the link worked was that recustant2 used the full instant mark up feature to post the link, so that the comma didn't screw it up the same way the auto feature does. If you go to recusant2's post, and do a Quote reply to it, you'll see that the full link has a url with a comment which is a copy of the url

PS Johnny, best way around a link that won't post correctly is to make it a clicky using the instant markup box - click on URL on the box to bottom left when you post and do this

Click here!!!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
The reason is that the link worked

[/ QUOTE ] Thanks for that explanation Brendan i suppose i sort of knew it. But not quite perhaps.

However if I may enter into the argument about why one person is getting a link that works and johnnyboy is failing to get his own link to work. It is largely that he has typed it incorrectly. The last comma is in the wrong place.
He has 19,300. where he should have 193,00.
Correct that and all the problems go away. Got to get the url correct in the first place or it wont work whatever method you use to post it!

copy and paste it from inside the squre brackets now but leaving out tthe url= bit as well

http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,193,00.html
 
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