Can anybody walk me through some transom re-instatement issues?

Full thread drift here, but many people link to threads that don't work, and often news links on Guardian or similar. They won't work if you post them direct, as the first comma in them screws them up. So you post them using the markup facility gets around that. Can't be bothered to forensically diagnose each of them, I just repost them normally, as working links
 
[ QUOTE ]
I just repost them normally

[/ QUOTE ] You missed the point. Johnny boy had the url incorrect. you must have picked up the correct url that Moodysabre found by a bit of detective work.

No matter how you had reposted the url that johnnyboy posted it would not have worked because it was incorrect!
 
Thanks oldsaltoz, nice clear instructions. Unfortunately I started this thread in the motorboat section and have had a big reponse there, meaning I have given a lot of background info there already, but in order to help you better understand how I've gotten to this point I'll give you a brief summary. I would value your opinion on some related matters. The reason I started this transom replacement in the first place was because I was unable to resist the urge to buy the biggest motor the boat would allow. I told myself (I think quite sensibly) that I could comfortably hang a 70hp on this boat without replacing the transom, because the transom seemed very solid. Then the exact engine that was most commonly used on this boat came up for sale 10 minutes from my house and the guy called me to see if I was interested, I knew I was pushing things to the limit if I put this on, as there is definitely water in the foam and I would imagine the stringers/crossbraces will need replacing, along with the closed cell foam. That is why I made the decision to go for no more than a 70hp. I cannot explain why I went to look at the motor, knowing all of this but what can I say...I'm just that kind of idiot.LOL! Anyways, once we managed to get this lump home I knew the transom was gonna need re-doing, so I looked at the options and found out about the american product "Seacast". Do you know of an equivalent english product and what are your thoughts on this? Anyway, I measured up the aea where I thought the transom timber would start and finish and costed up the materials and shipping. Since the pound is so strong, It looked like it would cost me about £500 for the materials which I know is quite a lot, but it had the added value for me of limiting the amount of fibreglasswork to the cap of the transom. Also, as I am in civil engineering I am used to working with timber shutters and casting things out of concrete, so this was an option i was comfortable with. It wasn't till I started chainsawing the ply out from between the skins that I got into difficultys. Firstly I couldn't get all the way to the bottom with an electric chainsaw I had bought to minimise the noise as I was doing this on my drive and I live in a nice quiet neghbourhood. I intended to finish the job with my dads much longer petrol saw, but when it came to that I found that due to the position of the exhaust, as I got to witin a few inches of the drain plug level, the exhaust gases were being forced between the skins and up into my face. There was nothing I could do to prevent this, and in addition, I had by now discovered that the ply went much further out to the sides of the boat than I had originally allowed for. I spent at least 12 hours trying to remove the rest of the old ply with a variety of crowbars, drills, corebits, chisels etc, but to no avail. Due to the design of the inner skin where it meets the gunnels I decided it would be very difficult to re-instate. I am not sure if any of the shots on my shareaproject page show this view, but I will try to add some by tuesday. I'm sure you will agree once you see these that it would not have been easy from the inside either, although I respect it may have still been the better option. When I went back to review my options I recalculated the volume of Seacast I would have to buy and re-calculated the costs (including shipping), so this this method became uneconomically viable. I WAS GUTTED! It was time to accept that I was gonna have to go back to ply and laminating method that I had spent by now about 20 hours trying to avoid. I am gonna take some shots of how the stern is at the moment, as it is actually cut out a litle farther than the shots you have seen already, and of the inner skin from the helm position. They willl hopefully be on here by monday night assuming I can upload them. The other issue I am getting a lot of negative feedback about is the design of my console/helm position. I am sure you will appreciate that it is sometimes ery difficult on these sites for people of my understanding to know when to listen to advice and when to ignore it. This boat is designed to carry 1000kg. That console weighs possibly 100kg. In your opinion, am I causing myself a problem with this design, because I am going to be replacing that console with a fibreglass one when I do the stringers/floor/foam during winter lay-up? Thanks for your advice so far anyway, I apologise for the llength of the post but what the hell, yours was pretty long too! Cheers.
 
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Link Test

[/ QUOTE ] Well you have got the URL right now but as Brendan says the commas bu$$er it up if you try to to it automatically.

Using Reply, not Quick Reply, Click URL in the Instant mark up box, paste your url into the box that opens, click OK, Type in the name that you would like to be visible, and OK again.

To get it into your signature you will have to construct it by hand I think.

Open the square brackets, type in url= then without leaving a space paste in your URL and close the square brackets. Then type in the name you want to appear as a link and finally [/URL]

So that it looks like this
{url=http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,193,00.html} My Project {/url}
but with square brackets instead of curly ones
 
Yep. That console is much higher than the original in your first pic of a military version.
I suspect you have made it to be easy to stand at when helming.
Try incorporating a longitudinal bench seat (to straddle) behind it and reduce the height by as much as 18".
Many people who build superstructures on existing boats get the proportions out. It's probably a purpose-before-form problem. Instead try to design something that "looks" right and then get the measurements to work afterwards.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Link Test Doh!

[/ QUOTE ] For your signature
Copy the what I wrote with the curly brackets and paste that in, change all four curly brackets to square ones and it'll work

You can change the words "My Project" to something else but not the full url with commas

This works though

shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,193,00.html

Test it using the preview facility until you get it correct. Then post it.
 
Provided the exterior ply is construction rated you should be fine. The main difference between marine and construction ply is:

Marine ply has no voids, so no woody knots.

Construction ply on the other hand will have some small voids. Both use the same glue.

If you intend to use this inside the transom you should epoxy treat it before it's installed.

Avagoodweekend......
 
New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

How about if I grind along the joint between the hull and the stern, and laminate from say 100mm above that joint right across the width of the stern. Wouldn't that give the same surface area as the bevel you suggested? Or am I seeing what I want to see? Please check out the new pictures (last 4 on rigid raider link)
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

Checked out the new pictures, you look to be very close to the outside edges and bottom of transom, this has left you with an area too small to get a good joint or bonding.

You will have to remove the bulk of the glass from the back edge and extend along the sides and bottom to get the area for bonding, remove all the glass from the top edge of the transom and extend the grind area inside the the transom.

When grinding old glass off make sure you have well rounded corners, this will make it stronger and avoid problems with getting the glass around right angles later when laying up the new glass.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

Forgive me oldsaltoz, I am a little confused by your explanation. Is there anyway you could show me a picture of what you are suggesting. I admit I sometimes have trouble visualising things when I have never seen them done. I appreciate it's a big ask. I am not sure whether this site has facility to attatch stuff to posts, but my e-mail address is johnmaskem@aim.com.
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

G'day John,

Take a look at the new pictures you posted and note that the cut on the back of the transom close to the outside edge is only an inch or so from the corner between transom and side of hull.

To get a strong bond between the transom and the hull, you will have to increase the area to be laminated (glassed) to get enough strength.

The only option is to continue the glassing; starting on the transom and continuing around the corner to side of the hull.

To avoid a lump on the side we need to remove enough of the old glass to make room for the new glass. As fibreglass will not go around tight curves you will have to round the corner off and continue grinding along the side of the hull for at least 5 inches.

Also note, I would advise you only use epoxy resin for this project as strength is going to be critical.

I hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......

PS ANZAC day here in Oz so the day started around 4 am for most of us.
 
Re: New Transom Pictures showing full width cut out !! !!

Thankyou very much for the time and detail you've gone into. I now feel I have a good understanding of what needs to be done. I am gonna get the materials from west systems and hope to post new pictures showing progress real soon.
 
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