Cable size to masthead light

[barnaclephill]

There was lots of discussion previously about using LED in tricolour lenses, has this been sorted out now?

I have my tricolors (separately) at deck level, so can't help there. For the all-round white I use one of these: http://www.ledshoponline.com/BA_15_D_LED_masthead_bulb.htm
at about 13 pounds plus postage. You will find similar ones locally.
It consumes 4 Watts at 12V. 5nm visibility. I fit it inside a clear lens, the lens having a fresnel-type grooves on the inside, as a replacement of the bulb only.

My current catalogs have no affordable combination anchor/tricolor in LEDs.

 

[nigelmercier]

Thanks, once again, for all your advice especially VicS.
I didn't like your conclusion, but am now convinced it's absolutely correct.
I can only find two suppliers of 2.5mm 3 core tinned cable...

Vic is spot on, as usual. But why do you need 3-core cable? Why not use single wires, so you can buy a reel. You can put it in a sheath if required.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Just something more to think about:

I replaced the mast head cable for a client in December, worn through the insulation.
Look for a cable with thicker insulation, that wire swinging inside the mast will not last long with only a thin soft covering.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[DanTribe]

Vic is spot on, as usual. But why do you need 3-core cable? Why not use single wires, so you can buy a reel. You can put it in a sheath if required.

I did consider that, but was trying to keep it simple, so didn't want to have to manufacture a cable if one already existed. Also space is restricted and pulling a bundle of wires through the mast could be tricky. Thanks for the idea though.
Considering that there are a few boats around with 13 metre masts, several of which have masthead lights, this is proving to be more problematical than I thought.

 

[savageseadog]

There is of course a way of wiring the two lights with two core and separately operating them

With diodes.

 

[earlybird]

There is of course a way of wiring the two lights with two core and separately operating them

With diodes.

And then you have a voltage drop across the diodes!

TBH,I wonder if this concern for voltage drop in the wiring is really an issue to get so hung up about.
2.5sq. mm. is very heavy.
My tricolour wiring is no more than 1 sq. mm. and my 25 watt light looked bright enough, brighter probably than the LED that I have replaced it with.
The perceived brightness of a light, to the eye, is not, I guess, anywhere near proportional to its wattage.
If I start my engine with the nav. lights on, that means an increase in voltage from around 12.5 v. to over 14 v.
The lights do brighten, true, but not by much, and that's with a voltage change of well over 10%.

 

[nigelmercier]

Why not use single wires...

Like this.

 

[savageseadog]

And then you have a voltage drop across the diodes!

TBH,I wonder if this concern for voltage drop in the wiring is really an issue to get so hung up about.
2.5sq. mm. is very heavy.
My tricolour wiring is no more than 1 sq. mm. and my 25 watt light looked bright enough, brighter probably than the LED that I have replaced it with.
The perceived brightness of a light, to the eye, is not, I guess, anywhere near proportional to its wattage.
If I start my engine with the nav. lights on, that means an increase in voltage from around 12.5 v. to over 14 v.
The lights do brighten, true, but not by much, and that's with a voltage change of well over 10%.

Scottky diodes will do it for far less drop and it might be possible to perform the same function with Transistors/Fets with a little thought.

10% voltage drop translates to a 20% power loss (assuming a linear power/resistance characteristic, which it isn't) which will translate to an even higher light fall and drop in colour temperature thus reducing the green and white output. In reality the fall in light out put will be higher.

 

[DanTribe]

Ideally the proper red LEDs in red lights, green in green and coolwhite in white lights.

I have fitted an LED light in my Aquasignal tricolour light that has three coloured sectors to match the lenses. Many chandlers sell the ECSmith one http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/info_ES100167.html

Mine came with a special replacement holder so that the LED could be properly orientated with the coloured sectors of the tricolour.



Apparently an acceptable compromise is a warm white LED assembly. It gives reasonable colors in the red and green sectors and although not as bright as a cool white is acceptable for the white light

Thanks again, the 3 colour lamp seems to be the way to go for me. I like the idea of the adjustable gadget, does that come with the E C Smith lamp?
BTW the illustrations seem to show green to stbd, red to port and white forward. I assume that is not how they are actually made?

 

[Dipper]

I fitted the same bulb as VicS after I realised my 1.5mm² tinned wire wasn't thick enough.

I tested the bulb off the boat first to confirm the correct orientation. The bulb and adapter take up more space (height) than the original bulb. My Force 4 tricolour/anchor light is shorter than Aquasignal or Hella lights but it still just fitted.

 

[VicS]

Thanks again, the 3 colour lamp seems to be the way to go for me. I like the idea of the adjustable gadget, does that come with the E C Smith lamp?
BTW the illustrations seem to show green to stbd, red to port and white forward. I assume that is not how they are actually made?

Yes the special holder came with the bulb. I was not expecting it. I expected the bulb to be correctly orientated if fitted to the original holder but it was not.. I tried it .. it was a long way out.

Yes the bub has the red and green sectors the correct way round.
The bulb was not marked however and the LEDs all look the same so the first job was to power it up and mark the front.

I cannot comment on the height of the bulb but the terminals on the new holder are different and probably stick down lower than those on the old one.

My light is a tricolour only so no conflict with a white which has been mentioned as problem before. If the design of the holder is a problem then I guess new holes could be drilled in the mounting flange of the old one to get the orientation correct.