Cabin sole. replicating my earlier design

[steveeasy]

The cabin sole has to come up in my new boat as its tired. worn and the water tank is dreadful. I like A holy and Teak effect, but equally I really liked my previous boats cabin sole which was I suspect a veneered ply which was routed and filled with a black finish which was not level to the surface and gave additional grip.

So I am thinking id like to make my own. Id probably try to get a shop to rout a sheet of ply as otherwise it could end up costing me more in materials. is there a best type of ply to use for this,Dont want a veneer that will wear too quickly. Should I scrap this idea and just buy Teak and holly.

Cant sail for several weeks so nothing else for it but to crack on before winter sets in.

Steveeasy

 

[harvey38]

We got two sheets of the holly and teak laminate from Robbins - Marine Plywood & Panel Supplier UK

The saloon sole is made up of 12 ply panels, a real pain in a*rse to take up and like Jenga to put back down. The plan is to make some larger but manageable size panels then when cut and shaped, apply the 2mm laminate. It looks great and has a slight non-slip texture, there is a sloped part of sole in the galley and I'm confident I'll be able to heat the sheet to form it and bond it.

Maybe worth a look and fir your purpose

 

[KevO]

We went with Permateek mounted on the original boards.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I made my own from iroko and jacaranda wood by gluing to origional floor ply

https://flic.kr/p/VKo2Ax

https://flic.kr/p/WopiUN

https://flic.kr/p/VGCjFL

https://flic.kr/p/VGCjjU

https://flic.kr/p/VGCj4o

IMGP1593_zps8f8fbb8f

IMGP1596_zpse85f0196

IMGP1598_zpsbee4a488

 

[geem]

We did our own parquet using teak blocks about 7mm thick. Also added some matching shelf fronts as well. Was a labour of love but worked out really well. Before varnishing, we added two coats of clearcoat epoxy. Sand it flat then varnish with 3 coats. It's super hard wearing

 

[PCUK]

I made my own from iroko and jacaranda wood by gluing to origional floor ply

https://flic.kr/p/VKo2Ax

https://flic.kr/p/WopiUN

https://flic.kr/p/VGCjFL

https://flic.kr/p/VGCjjU

https://flic.kr/p/VGCj4o

IMGP1593_zps8f8fbb8f

IMGP1596_zpse85f0196

IMGP1598_zpsbee4a488

Great job but the cost of the clamps would be prohibitive!

 

[PCUK]

We did our own parquet using teak blocks about 7mm thick. Also added some matching shelf fronts as well. Was a labour of love but worked out really well. Before varnishing, we added two coats of clearcoat epoxy. Sand it flat then varnish with 3 coats. It's super hard wearingView attachment 160481View attachment 160482

I did the same but it was a disaster as they all swelled in the winter and cracked up, despite numerous coats of sealer.

 

[PCUK]

You could use Faux teak which will outlast the boat, although the routed method is good as my mate did the same and it is still good some 30 years later! If you seal the floor then you are walking on the sealer and not wearing the wood.

 

[Tranona]

Another alternative is to buy some teak constructional veneers like these
thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/collections/constructional-wood-veneer/products/teak-constructional-wood-veneer?variant=44529091969256

cut into 5mm strips. glue onto 15mm ply leaving a 5mm gap and caulk with sealant or tinted epoxy then either leave bare or oil with teak oil. I am doing my cockpit seats like this and have already done a section of the coachroof either side of the companionway. Works out and just over half the price of ready made sheets of teak and holly.

You could use ash veneer for the "stripes" but a bit tricky cutting 5mm wide strips and gluing them down. Depends on the time you are willing to put into the job.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Great job but the cost of the clamps would be prohibitive!

Been collecting G clamps for years. and reuse then all the time

The cross clmps were made from some left over steel so cost very little except the screws

 

[geem]

I did the same but it was a disaster as they all swelled in the winter and cracked up, despite numerous coats of sealer.

Mine have been down 3 years. Epoxy bonded onto existing worn out floorboards. Sealed with epoxy. No moisture problems if epoxied down. They look as good as the day we did it

 

[rogerthebodger]

Mine have been down 3 years. Epoxy bonded onto existing worn out floorboards. Sealed with epoxy. No moisture problems if epoxied down. They look as good as the day we did it

Mine I glued down with polyeurthene water proof wood glue and varnished with a local UV proof sealant.

Mine has been down and in use since 2009 and had engines and gearboxes worked without series damage.

 

[PCUK]

Just me then!

 

[rogerthebodger]

Just me then!

My old boat has the same type of flooring you fitted using the glue on the flooring tiles.

They like yours started to come unstick in a short time some got wet , so your are not alone