Cabin lining repair

[Bee Friend]

We have a Fairline Squadron 55 (2004).
Some of the wall linings are starting to bubble up and come away. They appear to be a foam-backed vinyl material.
I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem and how you were able to repair it.
We'd like to try doing this ourselves.
Bee Friend

 

[Refueler]

Generally Foam Backed Vinyl - once it starts to come away - its done ... people try injecting glue but in the end it all comes down and needs replacement.
Surprised its al;ready failing ... usually lasts a few more years than that ...

You could buy better quality FBV ... or various other materials can be used - even van lining which I used.

A Sq 55 ..... not exactly a DIY boat ...

But search threads on here - Head Lining etc. Youtube videos are plenty ...

 

[Tranona]

We have a Fairline Squadron 55 (2004).
Some of the wall linings are starting to bubble up and come away. They appear to be a foam-backed vinyl material.
I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem and how you were able to repair it.
We'd like to try doing this ourselves.
Bee Friend

Welcome to the forum

This is the go to place for such things, both materials and help on how to do it hawkehouse.co.uk Quite possible to DIY but not an easy or pleasant job. Labour intensive so costly for professional.

facebook.com/groups/FairlineClub/ Also worth visiting here

Lots of Fairline owners on the Motor Boat forum on this site.

 

[jrudge]

The linings on a 2004 squadron ( I have one ) will have been shot 10 years ago.

The only solution is replace. The foam dissolves over time. The only very short term fix for some panels is to tighten them and staple the edges. This won't work for anll panels and won't last long.

 

[harvey38]

Contrary to Tranonas comment, I found it quite a simple and very rewarding project, I preferred a vinyl with no texture and purchased it from -

https://www.cjmarine.co.uk/

I was able to remove the panels and take them home to do them in the comfort, warmth and space. Do not use spray contact adhesive as it doesn't have the strength to hold the vinyl on ceiling panels. If you click on my signature, there are quite a few before and after photographs of when we did the saloon and dinette.

 

[jrudge]

Spray adhesive is fine but you must use the high temp version or it all falls off.

I have done my s58. A small part was done by someone else. It is a huge huge job. The ceilings are simple. The rest ranges from ok to bugger to £))k that.

 

[petem]

Welcome to the forum

This is the go to place for such things, both materials and help on how to do it hawkehouse.co.uk Quite possible to DIY but not an easy or pleasant job. Labour intensive so costly for professional.

facebook.com/groups/FairlineClub/ Also worth visiting here

Lots of Fairline owners on the Motor Boat forum on this site.

Thanks for the link.

The one thing I'd say is that a professional won't faff about like an amateur does. The guy who looks after my boat (ex Fairline) is pretty brutal when pulling the old panels off because he knows he can make a new ply one very quickly.

 

[jrudge]

I only had one panel break a bit coming off and that was one above the curtains that could only be removed by breaking it ( adhesive) but even then it was a quick fix.

The main issue is walls that don't have panels on - but straight on the GRP. They the have to tuck into door frames etc and this becomes very tricky. The professionals will remove the frames but fixing a gloss frame will be really tricky.

 

[PaulRainbow]

If sticking to ply, whether removable or not, waterproof PVA has worked well for me, as recommended by Hawkehouse.

1988 P45 guest cabin, refurbished to original spec:

 

[jrudge]

would be ok with vinyl but fabric I suspect would bleed through. It is also slow setting compared to contact adhesive.

Clearly it works as you have used it but It would seem to be a nightmare to use compared to contact adhesive.

 

[petem]

I only had one panel break a bit coming off and that was one above the curtains that could only be removed by breaking it ( adhesive) but even then it was a quick fix.

The main issue is walls that don't have panels on - but straight on the GRP. They the have to tuck into door frames etc and this becomes very tricky. The professionals will remove the frames but fixing a gloss frame will be really tricky.

Good points as ever !

 

[PaulRainbow]

would be ok with vinyl but fabric I suspect would bleed through. It is also slow setting compared to contact adhesive.

Clearly it works as you have used it but It would seem to be a nightmare to use compared to contact adhesive.

I did some on my previous boat with contact adhesive and it was generally easier with PVA. For removable ply panels i did the plat surface with PVA and left to partly dry, then folded the edges round and stuck them with contact adhesive, on some small ones i stapled the edges (stainless staples).

The play around the portlights is fixed, but the slower drying time made it easier to get everything perfectly in place. It helped with some edges to temporarily stitch the edges in place with some 2" Sellotape, a small roller kept everything nice and smooth.

The small vertical panels have no foam backing, these were stuck on with contact adhesive.