Buying a lathe?

[nigelmercier]

I've never used one, but I'm thinking of buying a small lathe; there are so many times it would be handy.

I've got a choice:

Mini Lathe - Brand New 7x14 Machine with DRO & 4" Chuck

•Power 550W
•Distance between centres : 350mm
•Swing Over Bed: 180mm
•Swing Over Cross Slide: 110mm
•Taper: MT3
•Tailstock Taper: MT2
•Chuck diameter: 100mm
•Spindle Speed: 50 - 2500rpm
•Spindle Bore: 20mm
•Cross slide Travel: 65mm
•Chuck diameter 100mm (Integral spindle plate is 100mm no adapter plate required)
•Range of Metric Threads: 0.5 - 2.5mm.
•Range of Imperial Threads: 12 - 52 TPI.
•Spindle Accuracy: 0.01mm.
•Size with packaging is L: 81cm W: 30.5cm H: 31.5cm
•Operating instructions enclosed.
•American circuit board
•230v 50Hz motor
•Actual dimensions of lathe - 29in.x 10in.x 9½ in.
•Net weight/Gross weight : 42/45Kg.
•Includes dead centre, set of external jaws, tray, rear splash guard, set of allen keys, spanner, oil can.
•Several other accessories available


Clarke CL250M Metal Lathe

•150W motor, 230v with variable speed control 100 - 2000rpm
•Sturdy construction with main components & base built from solid cast iron
•Distance between centres 259mm
•Swing over bed 153mm
•Spindle Taper MT2 - Bore 10mm
•Tailstock taper MT1
•Dimensions (LWH) 630x280x210mm Weight 23kg


The latter is quite a lot cheaper: there is no carriage, and MM are doing VAT Free in a few days.

Any thoughts from mechanical types?

 

[Tugw]

You may be better going for a Myford.At the end of the day it depends on what your going to use it for.I always found the Myfords more versatile and better built than any other(for small jobs and model making) if your looking for something a bit bigger i would look at the colchester student ranges,Like most things you have to decide what you want it to do,screw cutting,Milling,taper turning,Face Plate work.ect ect.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

The extra swing and distance between centres is always worth it long term.

 

[penfold]

The IT stasi are preventing me from seeing, but from the specs the latter is literally half the the machine the former is; weight is a useful thing to look at when considering machine tools. 150w isn't a lot of power for a 3.5" lathe.

Broadly speaking I'd agree with the Myford comment, but that's a whole different price bracket; to get a reasonable one with even minimal tooling you are looking at £500+, and you need to know what to look for to avoid buying a boat anchor that will turn tapers when you want parallel and vice versa.

 

[Dipper]

The first one is a mini lathe and the last a micro lathe. I bought a micro lathe from Axminster Power Tools a couple of years ago and it looks identical to the Clarke micro lathe except that it doesn't have the milling switch. When I researched these, it seemed that many of the micro lathes available are made by the same Chinese manufacturer but are rebadged by the sellers.

I had no previous experience of using a lathe and have so far only used mine to make plastic items for my boat (and other boats) such as rudder bushes and bow rollers. The micro lathe does struggle with power and it cuts out frequently but it may be better with metal. I also found the accuracy is a bit suspect but it could easily be that I haven't set it up properly since I have very little idea what I'm doing. Overall, I've quite enjoyed making things for myself. I bought all my plastic rods (nylon, acetal, Tufnol) from Direct Plastics.

The mini lathe seems to be a similar price (but with carriage charges) so I would go for that. Don't forget you will need tool sets and a tailstock chuck.

 

[Norman_E]

I have owned lathes for years, and built a miniature steam locomotive, so have a perspective based on experience. Firstly you need to define what you are going to use the lathe for, then I can advise you. There are many importers of the Chinese mini lathes, but all of those lathes (which appear to be of two slightly different designs) have defects for serious use. The two speed ones use plastic gears. All have electronic speed control with a bottom speed too low, and with too little torque for serious screwcutting. There are many better options. New Myford lathes are serious money. Although I have a Myford Super 7, the lathe I use most is a WW2 vintage 9 inch Southbend (American 4.5 inch centre height.)

Let us know what you actually intend to use it for. If the library has a copy, read "The Amateurs Lathe" by LH Sparey. It was written about 1950, but will still teach you quite a lot.

 

[dash300]

Try Axminster Tools. They have a wide range to fit most budgets.

 

[Poignard]

Myford is probably the best buy if you want to take up model engineering, clockmaking etc. There are so many attachments available for the Myford lathes that you can do almost anything with it.

 

[srp]

Like Norman E I have used lathes most of my working life. To be honest, you're best forgetting either of the two you've linked to. There is no doubt a Myford (secondhand) would be a better bet, as you could sell it for what you paid for it. Even better in my view would be a small Boxford, preferably a model B or even a C if possible. As well as the swing and distance between centres, the other useful dimension is the diameter of bar which can be fed through the headstock (on the Boxford it is 3/4" and 19/32" on most of the Myfords).

As for uses, I've made a lot of plastic fittings including cutless bearings, sheaves for blocks, as well as bronze and stainless work - turning propshaft tapers, bronze bushes, special thickness washers, reboring pulleys etc etc.

Schools are a good source for used machinery of this sort - it helps to know a few technology teachers to get a foot in the door. Most school equipment has only had light use - on the down side they are often a bit cosmetically challenged and are nearly always 3 phase, but you can easily change to a single phase motor.

 

[penfold]

Two points about Myfords; they are no more and when they were going they were overpriced, and for every reasonable used Myford there's a lot of smartly painted dross with silly asking prices on ebay. You need to be able to tell the difference, which given the OP has no experience of lathes is a tall order.

 

[ProDave]

Although I have a Myford Super 7, the lathe I use most is a WW2 vintage 9 inch Southbend (American 4.5 inch centre height.)

I also have a WW2 vintage lathe, but it's a Drummond round bed like this one http://www.lathes.co.uk/drummondroundbed/

I bought it for £25 from a farm machinery sale in a very sorry state, but it cleaned up well and thankfully the head stock bearings were okay.

I wouldn't regard it as a precision tool by modern standards but for the few times I need a lathe it suits my needs. I have it hooked up to a 1HP motor via a variable speed drive.

As already stated the lathe you buy will be determined by what you want to use it for.

 

[VicS]

There is an Atlas lathe on ebay at the moment. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/metal-lat...werTools_SM&hash=item27c5d9af9a#ht_500wt_1202

Virtually the same as my Sears Roebuck but sadly in nothing like as good condition



Keep watching. Mine will be for sale one day.

 

[Stoshak]

When I retired I bought a Chinese lathe from Chester UK. A 'Coventry'.

http://www.chestermachinetools.com/Default.aspx.

I had first looked into used British machines, Colchester, Myford etc. but they were too expensive. Then the choice is between Chester and Warco for the more serious machines. Both Companies are helpful and knowledgeable.

I also have an Atlas which is occasionally pressed into service, but it is rather unrefined.

 

[Norman_E]

I did not know that these were still available. Though they lack back gear for very low speeds this type of Chinese lathe is much better than any of the mini lathes, and once you take account of the equipment supplied, it is far better value. If I had one I would forget screwcutting under power and make a crank handle to turn the lathe when cutting threads. I have made a crank for use on both my lathes even though both have good low speeds.

EDIT: Warco used to list this type and I always thought that their machines were better finished than Chester ones, though they probably came from the same Chinese Factory.

 

[Dipper]

When I retired I bought a Chinese lathe from Chester UK. A 'Coventry'.

http://www.chestermachinetools.com/Default.aspx.

I had first looked into used British machines, Colchester, Myford etc. but they were too expensive. Then the choice is between Chester and Warco for the more serious machines. Both Companies are helpful and knowledgeable.

I also have an Atlas which is occasionally pressed into service, but it is rather unrefined.

The Chester Cobra lathe is another rebadge micro lathe but at their special offer price of £260 + VAT + delivery (cost unknown) it might be a good price.

 

[dgadee]

If you've never used one get a copy of Sparey, The Amateur's Lathe. Old but best introduction available, in my view.

 

[Norman_E]

If you've never used one get a copy of Sparey, The Amateur's Lathe. Old but best introduction available, in my view.

Is this a Lakesailoring?

 

[doug748]

I have been thinking about this myself. These machines are little more than toys to the tradesman but they have got to be better than mucking about with a pillar drill and files. You will need some turning tools, and one extra you cannot do without is a chuck for the tailstock.

For an extra £100,or so, option 1 seems to buy a so much better machine.
So if you have the space I would say go for that one, bear in mind the limitations pointed out by the others though.

Let us know what you decide.

 

[Norman_E]

Sorry to say it, but I think that all of the "mini lathes" have very serious drawbacks. I believe that they were designed originally just to be used to teach the rudiments of turning in Chinese schools, but found an export market for hobby use. Fine if you are making small parts but they just don't have enough metal in them for serious work. Other drawbacks.

1) The chuck is fitted to a flange on the spindle with three bolts. A real fiddle to change chucks.
2) The gears in the Headstock are plastic.
3) Variable speeds achieved by electronics, and the circuit boards are prone to failure.
4) Headstock bearings are ballraces, a very poor idea indeed. Either plain bearings or taper roller bearings with adequate preload are required for any serious use.
5) Distance between centres is only 14 inches (some makes 10 or 12) which is a big limitation for drilling once you subtract the length of a chuck and its drill.
6) All the ones I have seen have plastic change wheels and a lot of them have a very small tailstock casting, though some have one with a longer base and lever locking.

 

[CoVianna]

Myford or similar would be better.

Have a look on here.

http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

The Myford ML10 from 19-04-12 looks good value.