doug748
Well-Known Member
Or on the other hand, you could buy a good boat with a broken engine.
Fit a new one and luxuriate in the perfection.
Fit a new one and luxuriate in the perfection.
The man was telling you what you want to hear. Who is ever going to run 50000 hours. If these things were so brilliant how does that explain all the people posting on this forum asking what they should do with their knackered old Volvo which after 30 or 40 years good service and probably only 2000 or so hours has died and is beyond economic repair.>Why are you bringing out this old chestnut again. Scrapyards are littered with dead old style Volvos out of yachts, killed by salt water, neglect and failure of now unavailable or expensive ancilliaries.
If you neglect an engine what do you expect it applies to all brands not just Volvo.
>So how long can I hope my MD1 will last?
I asked Volvo what it would cost to build a new engine to the quality of an MD and they said 16,000 pounds which is why no engines are now made to that quality. To answer your question if you service it properly it will last 50,000 hours or more. At stages it will need a full service of pistons, rings, bearings, injector service and head gasket mainly to stop it burning too much oil.
The man was telling you what you want to hear. Who is ever going to run 50000 hours. If these things were so brilliant how does that explain all the people posting on this forum asking what they should do with their knackered old Volvo which after 30 or 40 years good service and probably only 2000 or so hours has died and is beyond economic repair.
Nobody would buy an old style Volvo now and for the last 30 years or so Volvo have been selling Japanese built Perkins engines instead. It's called progress.
Or on the other hand, you could buy a good boat with a broken engine.
Fit a new one and luxuriate in the perfection.
I cannot speak for all types of boats but for over 14 years now I do 'Pre Buying Inspection Visits' for people looking to buy a Colvic Watson and many say my report is better than the surveyors, You are right some surveyors just say the type or make of the engine, I want to see the engine start from cold despite if the boat is ashore or in the water, if the seller does not want to do this WALK AWAY!.
However If the owner is prepared to start an engine in a badly supported ie with suspect props not a cradle it says volumes about him RUN AWAY!
Lots of good advice but I will keep it simple. If you are buying an old boat buy one which has had a new engine. Someone else has taken the financial hit that you will have to take in a few years and you should have a reliable engine instead of an old one that will need work and will be unreliable.
BTW boats with new engines don't seem to go for much more money than boats with old ones!
>Why are you bringing out this old chestnut again. Scrapyards are littered with dead old style Volvos out of yachts, killed by salt water, neglect and failure of now unavailable or expensive ancilliaries.
I
I wish that was the situation. I have been looking for some time for a volvo 2030 which I can canibalise for spares for my own boat but no luck. Where are these scrapyards?
There's some useful DIY checks that can be done on good old VCs website http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Enginefaults.aspx I agree with what he says about extortionate cost of head gaskets. Price for my old single cylinder lump is £103 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In 1975 I had to buy a head gasket for a Ferrari Dino and it was £50. Then.
If you could a££ord a Ferrari in 1975, you couldn't complain about 50 quid for a head gasket.
You're lucky. In 1975 I was living in a cardboard box under a motorway flyover and living on raw root vegetables.And petrol was 3 gallons for a Pound. Boating was as cheap as chips.
You're lucky. In 1975 I was living in a cardboard box under a motorway flyover and living on raw root vegetables.