Building the Ultrasonic Antifouling Kit from Jaycar
- Thread starter Norman_E
- Start date
Norman_E
Well-known member
Yes, you adjust it with one of the IC and the fuse removed. The reason for the adjustment is that it sets the low voltage shut down threshhold. I have just re-read the technical descrition of the electonics, and the relevant piece reads: The 5V supply rail for IC2 is provided by a TL499A regulator, IC1. ..... Its output voltage is trimmed to exactly 5V using trimpot VR1. This is done to set the low voltage shutdown threshold.
There is a description before that of how the input voltage is split by a voltage divider consisting of 10K and 20K ohm resistors and the resulting voltage filtered and monitored at IC2, converted to a digital value and compared to a reference value in the software.
I infer from the above that regardless of input voltage IC1 will maintain 5V at IC2 and that the constant 5V input from IC1 is used by the software as a reference value and has to be accurately set in order that the software shuts the system down at the correct 11.5V input level and restarts it at 12V.
I may be wrong but the way to test the theory will be to try setting the 5V with a fully charged battery, and then sustituting a partially discharged one and testing to see if the output at the test pins is stll 5V. I have two garden tractors with batteries to use.
Norman_E
Well-known member
Voltage setting
I have now done the voltage setting and it is as I suspected. In the end I remembered that we have two jump starters in the garage, and on checking them I found one to be reasonably charged at 12.9 volts, and the older one down to 11.11 volts. I connected the good one as shown in the photo and adjusted the trimpot, bringing the recorded voltage up from 3.89 volts to 5.00 volts. I then swapped the jump starters, and found that with the low voltage one connected, the meter still read 5.00 volts.
I do not know what solder Jaycar provided, but I am using it, and it seems to have produced good joints, even if I have used a bit more of it than a professional would have done.
I have now done the voltage setting and it is as I suspected. In the end I remembered that we have two jump starters in the garage, and on checking them I found one to be reasonably charged at 12.9 volts, and the older one down to 11.11 volts. I connected the good one as shown in the photo and adjusted the trimpot, bringing the recorded voltage up from 3.89 volts to 5.00 volts. I then swapped the jump starters, and found that with the low voltage one connected, the meter still read 5.00 volts.
I do not know what solder Jaycar provided, but I am using it, and it seems to have produced good joints, even if I have used a bit more of it than a professional would have done.
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pentagram
New member
Hi
Did you get the kit from the UK??
If so could you let me know where please
Thanks
Did you get the kit from the UK??
If so could you let me know where please
Thanks
Norman_E
Well-known member
The original thread on this subject is here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255467 and as you will see it generated plenty of heat. I bought my two kits via the website linked in Bitman's post, 5th down on the first page. The link still works but as shown here http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/productView.asp?ID=KC5498&SPECIAL=NEW&form=SPECIAL the product is shown as out of stock. For two kits I had to pay an extra £52.30 shipping on top of the original £20 and £37.06 UK VAT on the total plus an £8 handling charge from Parcelforce. That made the total cost for two kits £256.86 - Still cheap compared to the cost of commercial units.
P.S. My guess is that they will be back in stock soon, and the reason for them being out of stock is that they are not just a collection of off the shelf parts, but include a ready wound coil and a pre programmed IC, both jobs which Jaycar do for you.
P.S. My guess is that they will be back in stock soon, and the reason for them being out of stock is that they are not just a collection of off the shelf parts, but include a ready wound coil and a pre programmed IC, both jobs which Jaycar do for you.
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Ubergeekian
Active member
PM on its way!
Norman_E
Well-known member
Sorry for the delay in updating this thread. I did solder up the circuit board for the second kit on boxing day. It was a doddle after the first one, and took less than half an hour. I have also fitted both units in their boxes and soldered the cable provided to the transducers. One point to note is that unless you file the socket for the transducer very thin, you will not be able to put a gland nut on the inside, there is just not enough thread on the cable glands. My solution was to mill a small flat, then drill the hole 29/64inches and tap the hole 1/2 inch UNF so that the gland can be screwed in.
My wife appears to have arranged an unending succession of dinner parties and visits for the season, so progress is slow, but I hope to encapsulate the transducers in a couple of days time. I am considering a method of encapsulation that does not involve using the plastic nut, and risking adhesive getting on the threads. More to follow once I have tried it.
The photo shows how little thread there is on the inside.
I cut down the adhesive labels supplied by Jaycar, as I did not want to cover all of the transparent box lids.
My wife appears to have arranged an unending succession of dinner parties and visits for the season, so progress is slow, but I hope to encapsulate the transducers in a couple of days time. I am considering a method of encapsulation that does not involve using the plastic nut, and risking adhesive getting on the threads. More to follow once I have tried it.
The photo shows how little thread there is on the inside.
I cut down the adhesive labels supplied by Jaycar, as I did not want to cover all of the transparent box lids.
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Quidi Vidi
New member
Its looking good!
I am one of the gang who placed an order and then cancelled, perhaps it now appears in haste. I am not sure i couls of assembled it without help as my electronics knowledge is zilch! Therefor i am finding your post exremely interesting and can not wait to see it fitted and working. I am now seriously reconsidering whether to order a kit or not, is there any chance that you could put together a build guide for numpties like myself, perhaps as a word document so we could print it out and refer to it.
Good luck with the rest of the project and the dinner parties!
Brian
I am one of the gang who placed an order and then cancelled, perhaps it now appears in haste. I am not sure i couls of assembled it without help as my electronics knowledge is zilch! Therefor i am finding your post exremely interesting and can not wait to see it fitted and working. I am now seriously reconsidering whether to order a kit or not, is there any chance that you could put together a build guide for numpties like myself, perhaps as a word document so we could print it out and refer to it.
Good luck with the rest of the project and the dinner parties!
Brian
Fr J Hackett
Well-known member
Well spurred on by Normans build just ordered two, still only showing £20 postage etc so expect to get asked for the extra. Still a £260 punt reducing the annual antifouling pain has got to be worth it.
Norman_E
Well-known member
Bower, I am afraid it will be a bit of a time before I can install it as I am not planned to go to the boat in Turkey until I go out to launch it at the end of March. When you order the kit you get three pages of information from Jaycar plus a 17 page reprint of the two magazine articles. There is enough information there to do the build, though I did find the web page that I linked very useful for correct identification of the resistors, which are nowadays tiny things compared to the ones of my youth, so an illuminated magnifier also proved very useful.
Heckler
Active member
I dont understand the VAT and Parcel force charge, whre is it coming from?
Stu
Ubergeekian
Active member
The colonies.
Our Company
Jaycar Electronics is a leading Australian and New Zealand electronics retail company that is committed to providing our customers with quality, range, and value for money. We have a passion for electronics and are proud of the unique products we bring to our customers.
We have over 50 stores across Australia and New Zealand so if you're after a specific electronic component or any number of useful gadgets find your closest store and come visit us.
Jaycar Electronics is a leading Australian and New Zealand electronics retail company that is committed to providing our customers with quality, range, and value for money. We have a passion for electronics and are proud of the unique products we bring to our customers.
We have over 50 stores across Australia and New Zealand so if you're after a specific electronic component or any number of useful gadgets find your closest store and come visit us.
It seems that they have a UK domain, price the stuff in sterling and then add enormous shipping charges after you think you've ordered.
William_H
Well-known member
Buying from Oz into UK
Just as a matter of interest was it not practical to buy direct from Jaycar using a credit card debited to your account in UK pounds. They should deduct Australian GST 10% (ie VAT) and postage can't be that dear. Then deal with UK VAT when it arrives.
I can attest that they are a big company and have been in mail order for many many years. so should have no worries.
Interestingly in Oz there is a furror because you can order stuff on internet from overseas and for orders less than $1000 (650 squid) you pay no GST or duty. (goods and Service tax inspired by UK VAT) Anyway stores are really grumpy at the huge amount of buying via internet.
Pity for the UK folks that oz dollar has gone way up in value from 40p a few years back to now 65p. For the last week or so has been over parity with US dollar. Yes I hope to come to UK for your summer just to buy some of those cheap pounds. But don't plan on coming top Oz for a holiday.
All very interesting olewill
Just as a matter of interest was it not practical to buy direct from Jaycar using a credit card debited to your account in UK pounds. They should deduct Australian GST 10% (ie VAT) and postage can't be that dear. Then deal with UK VAT when it arrives.
I can attest that they are a big company and have been in mail order for many many years. so should have no worries.
Interestingly in Oz there is a furror because you can order stuff on internet from overseas and for orders less than $1000 (650 squid) you pay no GST or duty. (goods and Service tax inspired by UK VAT) Anyway stores are really grumpy at the huge amount of buying via internet.
Pity for the UK folks that oz dollar has gone way up in value from 40p a few years back to now 65p. For the last week or so has been over parity with US dollar. Yes I hope to come to UK for your summer just to buy some of those cheap pounds. But don't plan on coming top Oz for a holiday.
All very interesting olewill
Quidi Vidi
New member
This was mine (and others) problem with this company and the reason that we cancelled. They advertised the kit and a price for shipping online which we signed up to and ordered, they accepted our orders and money and then a few days later sent an email demanding extra shipping costs, no apologies for their mistake or please or thank you, I think it was this attitude that got up peoples noses as i'm sure we would have all been willing to pay the extra if it had been up front and advertised. It took quite a few emails before i got a response and eventually they gave me my money back.
Having said that i think Norman has got a good deal and his kit is looking good, the problem as i have said is the underhanded way that this company dealt with us. I am seriously thinking about swallowing my pride and re ordering a kit now
Norman_E
Well-known member
Skipper Stu, I thought I had made it clear in one of my posts, possibly on the original thread, but to recap the buying situation Jaycar are Australian and ship everything from there. They have UK pages on their website and you can order and pay in Sterling. After you do that the issue arises that whilst they quote £20 freight cost for two kits on the website the actual cost is much more, and they then ask for that.
The VAT arises because you are importing the kits from outside the EU. Anything you buy from outside the EU, for more than £18, including shipping, is liable to VAT on the whole amount. On some goods there is also Customs Duty payable, though none was charged on the kits I bought. There is a higher limit of £40 before VAT is chaged if the goods are a gift. Parcelforce (or whoever else delivers the goods) has to collect the VAT on behalf of Customs & Revenue, and Parcelforce charge £8 for handling the transaction.
The VAT arises because you are importing the kits from outside the EU. Anything you buy from outside the EU, for more than £18, including shipping, is liable to VAT on the whole amount. On some goods there is also Customs Duty payable, though none was charged on the kits I bought. There is a higher limit of £40 before VAT is chaged if the goods are a gift. Parcelforce (or whoever else delivers the goods) has to collect the VAT on behalf of Customs & Revenue, and Parcelforce charge £8 for handling the transaction.
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Norman_E
Well-known member
Encapsulation.
I have found the time to encapsulate the first transducer. I was concerned that the method described in the article could lead to the socket and nut becoming stuck together, so I thought up another method. What I did was to make a clamping fixture to hold the socket firmly down to a board without the nut. The fixture consists of a double thickness of melamine faced chipboard, with a third piece as the clamp. The third piece has a 64mm hole in it, which is a standard hole-saw size, to enable the resin to be poured.
My efforts to use cling film failed as it rucked up when sprayed with silicone dry lubricant which is intended to act as the release agent, so I have used aluminium foil. A small amount of the resin has escaped at the bottom, but it is not significant. It will be many hours before the resin sets and I can remove the clamp.
I did have a couple of problems with the resin mix. The first was that the translucent hardener could be seen to have crystallised, probably due to getting cold in transit. That was rectified by placing the bag in lukewarm water until the crystals could no longer be seen. The second was that in my efforts to remove the plastic clip that separates the two halves of the bag, I made a pinhole in it, and the mixing process became a messy one.
The photo should give some idea of how the clamping fixture works.
I have found the time to encapsulate the first transducer. I was concerned that the method described in the article could lead to the socket and nut becoming stuck together, so I thought up another method. What I did was to make a clamping fixture to hold the socket firmly down to a board without the nut. The fixture consists of a double thickness of melamine faced chipboard, with a third piece as the clamp. The third piece has a 64mm hole in it, which is a standard hole-saw size, to enable the resin to be poured.
My efforts to use cling film failed as it rucked up when sprayed with silicone dry lubricant which is intended to act as the release agent, so I have used aluminium foil. A small amount of the resin has escaped at the bottom, but it is not significant. It will be many hours before the resin sets and I can remove the clamp.
I did have a couple of problems with the resin mix. The first was that the translucent hardener could be seen to have crystallised, probably due to getting cold in transit. That was rectified by placing the bag in lukewarm water until the crystals could no longer be seen. The second was that in my efforts to remove the plastic clip that separates the two halves of the bag, I made a pinhole in it, and the mixing process became a messy one.
The photo should give some idea of how the clamping fixture works.
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bitman
New member
nice 1
can't wait till i get my parcel
can't wait till i get my parcel
Fr J Hackett
Well-known member
Ordered mine Monday still not heard from them asking for more postage, now wondering where to site the transducers on a long keel hull? All credit to NormanE for providing the impetus.
bitman
New member
customs charge of £22.83
just got my custom charges letter of £22.83
so now i can heat up my weller!
can't wait till i get my parcel
just got my custom charges letter of £22.83
so now i can heat up my weller!
Norman_E
Well-known member
You may need 2, as the magazine article (which appears to be more geared to motorboats than yachts) says that one unit is for boats up to 32 feet. Of course your waterline might be within limits for one, but the long keel shape may well dictate that two are required. The article recommends putting the transducer near the propellers and rudders, and there is a diagram showing a twin prop motor boat with the transducer well off centre, but behind the propellers. For a long keel yacht I would suggest you look for an accessible spot close to the position of the propeller, and to one side because you will not be able to fit it centrally, and fit the second unit ahead of the mast and on the other side of the keel.