Buffer/Polisher?

Quandary

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The dog was in the back barking mad so I scraped the rear door of the car on the gate pillar and by the time I had filled, primed and painted it I had coated the bottom half of the door, steep learning curve but apparently the final shade of metallics is a consequence of the amount of sanding you do to the flakes before applying clear coat, and then later you have to buff the 'orange peel' off the clearcoat. So I decided I should buy a buffer/ polisher which then can be put to good use every year polishing the topsides. In the process using Google and Utube I discovered the massive world of 'detailing' inhabited by hordes of experts and obsessives which make boat owners with their epoxy habit look like rank amateurs.
Apparently, straightforward rotary polishers with 1200w. motors should only be handled by folk with massive experience, so my plan to buy one from Silverline or Sealey had to change, beginner 'detailers' like me should only use DA machines (dual action, or in our world random orbital) much harder, apparently, to do damage with these and they are about half the weight of a Silverline which will be an advantage for the boat job.
Of course the price of these little rotary motors varies enormously and the recommended models retail for up to £400, no way am I spending that.
In the cheaper category there is a Katsu sold by Amazon and a Challenge Extreme sold by Argos £50 and £60 respectively, then there is a Duren for about £80. all 600w. variable speed and similar in spec and warranty. The 'cheapy' that the experts condescendingly deign to mention is Deltalyo Kestrel DAS6 sold under a host of badges in a variety of models rising from 500w to 900w the latter with a 15mm. throw compared to the normal 8mm. but costing £160.
Does anyone use a cheap 600 watt dual action polisher to do their topsides, how does it cope? Mine hopefully will only be out once a year so reliability is not going to be a major issue but performance is. I can also use it to sand the keel when I need to.
£50 or £60 can go on my list for Santa but £160 might be greedy and have to be reciprocated.
 
Bought a Makita a couple of years ago, it does the cutting and polishing. Now built up a selection of cutting pads and mops as well as liquids. The machine has a rubber type flex which unlike the cheapo ones which have a glossy plastic type does not get tied in knots. Highly recommend.
 
Aldi have got two on offer at the moment. 12v and 240v. They'd probably do the job. The 12v is much lighter and presumably less tiring to use. No doubt the more you pay the better the tool but is adequate good enough.
 
I bought the DA Silverline 600w from Toolstation as I thought it could do the job - It can't!!

Let me qualify this. It is probably fine to wax an already good surface, but if you want to polish or cut any chalkiness it really isn't up to it. After very little time, once there is any build up on the mop, it pretty much grinds to a halt.
 
The key thing to consider is the weight. I have a Rupes mini polisher which, in spite of the name, is well up to the job and weighs less than 2Kgs. Some of the cheaper alternatives can be twice this weight.
 
If the Silverline is one of those two handgrip gadgets you can buy for about £25 I am not surprised, I have one though it is badged Nutool or something like that, I have only ever used for final polishing with a lambswool bonnet and even that is faster by hand.
I am reluctant to pay Maguiars prices for something that I will not use very much, after all they are just a variable speed electric motor built in to a handle, not a lot to go wrong if 600w. is enough power, though I accept they are well regarded. The price of little bottles of chalk powder in a liquid is another rip off, amazing number of companies selling the abrasives, Mag, 3M or Farecla seem to be the established brands?
 
The key thing to consider is the weight. I have a Rupes mini polisher which, in spite of the name, is well up to the job and weighs less than 2Kgs. Some of the cheaper alternatives can be twice this weight.

All you guys buy good stuff, but even the cheaper DA polishers come in at around 2-2.5 kg, the 1200w. Sealey or Silverline type without the oscillations are twice as heavy but the experts claim you need to be one of them to handle them.
I am still hoping someone with experience of using a DA cheapy will turn up.
 
I use a Silverline variable speed with Farecla compound. Important thing I discovered is to keep the compound damp and the polisher moving, don't dwell too long in one place or the surface will burn. I use a trigger spray with water and a few drops of washing up liquid to prevent it drying out too quickly. Results have been pretty good on both dark blue and white gelcoat.
Good luck!
 
For compounding, which is what you are talking about, a DA is the wrong tool.

I have 2 air operated DA's, useless for compounding/polishing. An air rotary polisher, not totally useless but slow. A Sealey two speed polisher/sander, this will compound or polish all day long if your arms could manage it. I have used this professionally and it's probably 15 plus years old, the new models are multi speed. The secret is to use the correct speed and not to let it dry out.
 
All you guys buy good stuff, but even the cheaper DA polishers come in at around 2-2.5 kg, the 1200w. Sealey or Silverline type without the oscillations are twice as heavy but the experts claim you need to be one of them to handle them.
I am still hoping someone with experience of using a DA cheapy will turn up.


Not sure why you believe so strongly in a DA over a Rotary. Each has pro's and cons. I have a rotary but use a foam pad and never wool (which is more aggressive) and have come to boats after a hobby of car restoration. The technique is simple enough. Have you read this article? It's worthwhile going through it to understand the process and technique and he has many more on the forum.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024
 
Not sure why you believe so strongly in a DA over a Rotary. Each has pro's and cons. I have a rotary but use a foam pad and never wool (which is more aggressive) and have come to boats after a hobby of car restoration. The technique is simple enough. Have you read this article? It's worthwhile going through it to understand the process and technique and he has many more on the forum.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024

I have read that, I am sure (in fact certain) that our cars have all the defects listed but until this week I was blissfully unaware of them, In the case of the boat, I like to maintain shiny waxed topsides and so far have been happy with the results achieved by hand, so my aspirations are pretty low.
My assumption is that gelcoat is easier to polish and wax than car paint, I had hoped that the DA machines would be adequate to use for that and sufficiently idiot proof for me to use on the car door, my Forester and my wife's 14 year old MX5 are metallic silver so never going to be concours standard even if I aspired to it. Just want them to be clean and tidy (she likes to wash hers fairly often). When I started out nearly a week ago I thought a polisher was a 4.5 kg lump with a big pad that spun around so all this DA stuff was new to me but the lighter weight and idiot tolerance seemed to be aimed at me. I am never going to be a car detailer content to remain a DIY bodger, but even bodgers like to do thing easier and better ways if they can.
I have learnt a lot and appreciate the efforts made to help me, I would still love to know if a 600w. DA polisher would be any use for shining the gelcoat?
 
I have read that, I am sure (in fact certain) that our cars have all the defects listed but until this week I was blissfully unaware of them, In the case of the boat, I like to maintain shiny waxed topsides and so far have been happy with the results achieved by hand, so my aspirations are pretty low.
My assumption is that gelcoat is easier to polish and wax than car paint, I had hoped that the DA machines would be adequate to use for that and sufficiently idiot proof for me to use on the car door, my Forester and my wife's 14 year old MX5 are metallic silver so never going to be concours standard even if I aspired to it. Just want them to be clean and tidy (she likes to wash hers fairly often). When I started out nearly a week ago I thought a polisher was a 4.5 kg lump with a big pad that spun around so all this DA stuff was new to me but the lighter weight and idiot tolerance seemed to be aimed at me. I am never going to be a car detailer content to remain a DIY bodger, but even bodgers like to do thing easier and better ways if they can.
I have learnt a lot and appreciate the efforts made to help me, I would still love to know if a 600w. DA polisher would be any use for shining the gelcoat?

The thing to remember is that the gel coat of a boat hull is very hard compared to most car paints. Some two pack paints are pretty tough. The da polisher will polish gel coat but it will be slow and it's not very efficient. The polisher is a lot more aggressive and can use more agresssive cutting compounds efficiently. Although some care is needed you would need to be a real numpty to burn gelcoat. Just keep it moving and lubricated with a spray of water. Also the cutting compounds tend to be more aggressive.
On the other hand it's very easy to make a real hash of car paint with a polisher less so with a da polisher but you still need to be very carful. Links on previous posts give good advice.
 
Well I have just done both sides of my 50 footer - wow its a job and a half which I do every two years with the antifouling. I use a Makita rotary which is brilliant. I am no expert but I find gel coat pretty tolerant. How perfect a finish are you after? For me a good quality marine wax and buffing is as good as it gets, and with the Makita I can achieve a good shine. On the down side I suspect any quality buffer is heavy, and four hours use is truly a good work out. It is all very well thinking in terms of cutting, polishing and buffing (which I did the first time) - now it is a marine wax with a little cutting action included and a good buff - I cant tell the difference and it saves a good 6 hours work.
 
A DA polisher like this works perfectly well for polishing gelcoat - just don't expect it to cut back a heavily oxidised surface without spending all day on it. I have one as well as a rotary polisher and have lost count of the number of cars and boats I've used it on. I also use a Mirka 77mm DA sander with 600 - 2000 grit discs or a Farecla polishing foam for hard to reach areas.

Autosmart sell some good orange compounding foams and Evo 3 is an excellent general purpose compound. I usually work with 3m Perfect-I, Evo 3 or Farecla G3 depending on what needs doing.
 
I'm surprised that people spend their time polishing cars and boats - haven't they got better things to do?
My car gets cleaned only at service time when those nice people at Audi do it for free. I once polished a boat but only with turtle wax (which made a nice job tho).
Polishing adds no speed or value as far as I am aware so doesn't get done.
 
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