Bruntons Autoprop Propellor removal

MGambling

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Bruntons recommend using their extractor tool for removal at no doubt some expense. Has anyone removed with normal three legged puller without any problems.
 
I'm not sure that just any normal three legged puller will do it. As seen in this pic of my two-bladed Autoprop
IMG_1342.jpg

the active part of the propeller is quite bulbous, so a puller might need to be quite a large one to reach over it. Also, not a lot of space to get the feet of the puller in. I bought their own puller, don't remember it being terribly expensive, and it works fine.
 
Bruntons gave me one free of charge, so it can’t be expensive! Try phoning and see what you can get out of them.
It's a very simple metal plate, it wouldn’t take more than 30min to make out of a bit of scrap 6 or 8mm plate. There are two holes to match the holes for the prop anode, you put two set screws through these holes and into the tapings for the anode, making sure that there the set screws are screwed in at least a diameter.
There is a third hole midway between the first two holes, this is taped to something like M8 or perhaps M10 and takes a bolt which rest on the centre of the prop shaft. You simply tighten the centre bolt down onto the prop shaft. I’ve found it only takes a turn with ring spanner to release the prop from the taper.
You may be past this stage already, but don’t forget to loosen the grub screw which locks big brass nut in place ...... I can’t remember how many times I’ve forgotten to do this and wondered why the nut is so hard to get off!
 
Thanks for your detailed advice - I checked with Bruntons and I am told the extractor is about £60.00 no doubt plus VAT plus Carriage. So I think I will try with a normal puller first.Bit disappointing though. Mike
 
I didn't have a suitable piece of plate, but a clutch puller from Halfords costs about £15, and has the centre jacking screw - just drill it with three 6.5mm holes to line up with the ones on the autoprop, and use some 6mm bolts to secure it to the prop. Then follow Saltwater Gypsy's advice above.
 
I have a Bruntons puller. Unfortunately, a couple of years ago the screws which fasten the puller onto the rear of the prop sheared off with the pressure. Luckily I was able to extract the remains of the screws. My crew made a collar which fitted around the shaft in front of the prop and was attached to the puller by another collar and a pair of long bolts. The result being that the prop was pushed off by pressure at its front rather than pulled off from its rear. Following my experience I would favour a puller that did not rely on merely being screwed to the back ogf the prop.
 
I kid you not, I removed my 3 bladed one by hitting it with any large peice of wood lying around the yard. It had to be big and heavy, like a small prop, say a 3 ft long peice of 4 x 4, with a softish end. I'd basically thrust it at the rear of the prop flange when it would catch and, having a certain mass, keep going taking the prop with it. Sometimes I'd place a similar bit of wood in location and hit it with a large lump hammer. Mind you, I am also pretty large and soft and that might have something to do with it.
 
Previously I've taken off propellers by all the many means already posted, but now having a three bladed Brunton's Autoprop, there is no way that I'm going to hit it, heat it, or otherwise abuse it. It was a simple matter to make up a small plate with three holes to match the tapped holes for the anode screws, with a centre jacking screw, (actually a nut welded on to the plate).
 
I have a Bruntons puller. Unfortunately, a couple of years ago the screws which fasten the puller onto the rear of the prop sheared off with the pressure. .....

A word of warning, when you fit the anode if you use locktite make sure its a soft type, I didn't and used a hard setting one and sheared a screw off when I wanted to change the anode. I then proceded to snap the extractor tool off in the sheared screw.

So I had a staineless steel screw with a hardended steel core, try drilling that out !!!

Thats how I know Bruntons have a spark errosion machine :-)
 
I borrowed a puller from the boatyard (for £5 in their coffee fund) that did the job on my 3-blade Brunton fine. As well as the puller, I got a piece of advice: tie the puller onto the boat so that, if it slips, you don't get it in the face. I have since met somone who lost a front tooth through not having taken this precaution.
 
I have a variprop on a taper shaft. Never managed to release the taper by hitting it. Used tool similar to described for Bruton. Beware of stored energy tightening centre bolt. When taper is finally broken mine almost jumps off the shaft. Be ready to catch!
 
Most of these references to Brunton props seem to refer to Autoprops. Anyone made their own Varifold puller?
I had the variprop puller and had extra holes drilled to suit centres for my 4 bladed varifold.

Principle of puller is same as bruntons. Flat plate with centre bolt and holes drilled to suit centres of bolts to fit prop boss.
 
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