Bought a Never splashed Colvic Countess 33 on eBay, Looking for infos

Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

I’m thinking of “cooking” the water out of the inside before I actually even bother to measure.

If that involves building a fire underneath the hull to boil away the water I'm sure that it would raise some smug smiles of the 'I-Told-You-So' type on the faces of the naysayers! :disgust:

However, on a more serious level, at this stage I would seriously consider the removal of all the gel-coat that is below the waterline and do a full epoxy treatment. Whether you use an angle grinder, peeler or grit blasting is up to you.

Some years ago I was faced with a boat where the original epoxy treatment was showing signs of failure with just a handful of small blisters visible, maybe twenty in all and none of them more than 6mm diameter. My first thought was 'angle grinder followed by epoxy filler as required. Unfortunately I noticed that passing the flap-disk over areas where the epoxy seemed unblemished was causing spurts of water from minute bubbles that were hitherto invisible because they had not yet raised the characteristic dome. I then decided to have the hull's underwater part grit-blasted because it would have taken me more than three weeks to do it 'my way'. The time and effort saved were well worth the expense, IMHO.

I was hosing down the hull with fresh water several times daily, usually while I was having a coffee break. This was over a period of three or four weeks until the readings stabilised. Meanwhile it was not time wasted because there were a thousand and one things to be done inside the hull, on deck and in the workshop at home because the boat had been unused and afloat for some fourteen years! Applying the new epoxy treatment (Veneziani) was left until close to the end of the to-do list, by which time the hull was as bone dry as could reasonably be expected.

The final cost of the boat, the treatment (self-applied), replaced electronics, replacement of all the exterior wood, etc., AND the bill from the yard was still well under the market cost of similar boats. I did not cost my time because I am retired. I kept a running spreadsheet that accounted for everything, down to the last self-tapping screw and the plug cutters with which I cut the plugs (what else?) that cover them.

Your call; I have just described what I did...and would do again. :encouragement:
 
Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

If that involves building a fire underneath the hull to boil away the water I'm sure that it would raise some smug smiles of the 'I-Told-You-So' type on the faces of the naysayers! :disgust:

However, on a more serious level, at this stage I would seriously consider the removal of all the gel-coat that is below the waterline and do a full epoxy treatment. Whether you use an angle grinder, peeler or grit blasting is up to you.

Some years ago I was faced with a boat where the original epoxy treatment was showing signs of failure with just a handful of small blisters visible, maybe twenty in all and none of them more than 6mm diameter. My first thought was 'angle grinder followed by epoxy filler as required. Unfortunately I noticed that passing the flap-disk over areas where the epoxy seemed unblemished was causing spurts of water from minute bubbles that were hitherto invisible because they had not yet raised the characteristic dome. I then decided to have the hull's underwater part grit-blasted because it would have taken me more than three weeks to do it 'my way'. The time and effort saved were well worth the expense, IMHO.

I was hosing down the hull with fresh water several times daily, usually while I was having a coffee break. This was over a period of three or four weeks until the readings stabilised. Meanwhile it was not time wasted because there were a thousand and one things to be done inside the hull, on deck and in the workshop at home because the boat had been unused and afloat for some fourteen years! Applying the new epoxy treatment (Veneziani) was left until close to the end of the to-do list, by which time the hull was as bone dry as could reasonably be expected.

The final cost of the boat, the treatment (self-applied), replaced electronics, replacement of all the exterior wood, etc., AND the bill from the yard was still well under the market cost of similar boats. I did not cost my time because I am retired. I kept a running spreadsheet that accounted for everything, down to the last self-tapping screw and the plug cutters with which I cut the plugs (what else?) that cover them.

Your call; I have just described what I did...and would do again. :encouragement:

Yes, that’s what we’re planning, peeling it all off to let all the blisters bleed and wash it down with an alkaline solution to neutralise the acidity. A shower a day for a bit and then when I have the bulkheads in place inside, we move to the outside and deal with drying it. I'm going with a self-made plane to peel the hull, as I want depth control. I'm sure I'm going to have to re-laminate the area where the bubbles are. I intend to remove a bit of glass till i find a layer that looks ok. I will have it sandblasted as well. My main worry is that the blisters form kind of a rough line and I want to make sure I do not have "dots" of damaged glass on a line in the hull. Not to my liking.

On heating the hull, I'm mainly going to go with industrial heating forcing the temp inside to 110 Celsius. The outside is going to get covered with a construction warming mat (used for concrete laying in cold temps) as to get the temperature sealed on the top sides leaving the peeled hull to exhale some of the moisture. Then Using industrial strength vac and heat for both inside and outside. The Inside is going to get a good grind then a layer of weave and probably vinylester.
The part of the Hull that is peeled will also get a layer of weave to help seal it when the time comes to seal it up. It will all be done using vac infusion. As to minimise any micro air bubbles in the resins, I am considering mixing under vac. Which is how I mix 2 part silicone rubbers to catalyse. The mixing being the moment were you add the air that you then transfer into the resin. There’s 2 ways of dealing with it. Using a mixer under vac, or degassing the mixture after catalyst and mixing. Degassing after is a bit more fiddly but cheaper as you don’t need an altered pressure tank.
Results are that any micro air bubbles are removed to a high degree ( 90 ish.. % top of my head)
In silicone rubbers it majorly affects duration and usability of cast product as the air bubbles will lead to high stress areas.
Resins are basically the same thing. From what I see of the industrials methods used to make boats, I fail to see how people think that they have a hull without hydrolysis.
In the case of my hull, having no weave on the outside of that hull is something I really want to change as to remove the capillarity effect from the strand.
 
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Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

Yes, that’s what we’re planning, peeling it all off to let all the blisters bleed and wash it down with an alkaline solution to neutralise the acidity. A shower a day for a bit and then when I have the bulkheads in place inside, we move to the outside and deal with drying it. I'm going with a self-made plane to peel the hull, as I want depth control. I'm sure I'm going to have to re-laminate the area where the bubbles are. I intend to remove a bit of glass till i find a layer that looks ok. I will have it sandblasted as well. My main worry is that the blisters form kind of a rough line and I want to make sure I do not have "dots" of damaged glass on a line in the hull. Not to my liking.

On heating the hull, I'm mainly going to go with industrial heating forcing the temp inside to 110 Celsius.

I'd assumed you meant 110 F when you said 110 degrees.

I've an alternative business idea for you. Convert the hull to a floating sauna (better at 110F than 110C :) ). Customers would have the advantage of being able to come up into the cockpit and leap overboard into the cooling sea. Or at low tide they could have a mud bath instead.
 
Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

I'd assumed you meant 110 F when you said 110 degrees.

I've an alternative business idea for you. Convert the hull to a floating sauna (better at 110F than 110C :) ). Customers would have the advantage of being able to come up into the cockpit and leap overboard into the cooling sea. Or at low tide they could have a mud bath instead.

hehe I like that Idea.
Sorry, I ONLY use metric and either Celsius or Kelvin. It's been long since I last used anything else (can’t even remember) Industrially and in science nothing else exists. My bad for failing to point out that I meant Celsius as 110 Kelvin(-163.15 Celsius) would be past the freezing point of Oxygen (54.36 K)

er.. I did point out :p
 
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Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

hehe I like that Idea.
Sorry, I ONLY use metric and either Celsius or Kelvin. It's been long since I last used anything else (can’t even remember) Industrially and in science nothing else exists. My bad for failing to point out that I meant Celsius as 110 Kelvin(-163.15 Celsius) would be past the freezing point of Oxygen (54.36 K)

er.. I did point out :p

Obviously K is the SI unit, but people use all sorts so you get used to it and F is the most widespread in the US. :)

I don't know what happens to water in polyester at 110C. You'd assume it'll boil off but I don't know what reaction there'll be with the polyester chains. I think it's well known that there is some reaction over a long period at lower temperatures. Maybe VicS as the resident chemist might have some input.
 
Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

Obviously K is the SI unit, but people use all sorts so you get used to it and F is the most widespread in the US. :)

I don't know what happens to water in polyester at 110C. You'd assume it'll boil off but I don't know what reaction there'll be with the polyester chains. I think it's well known that there is some reaction over a long period at lower temperatures. Maybe VicS as the resident chemist might have some input.

THAT is a great idea, I'm afraid I'm not much of a chemist when it comes to the nitty gritty of water reactions. I'll PM him thanks dude.
Yeah people sometimes just refuse to go with the times. It is a problem not only in the US i'm afraid its a more general thing.
 
Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

hehe I like that Idea.
Sorry, I ONLY use metric and either Celsius or Kelvin. It's been long since I last used anything else (can’t even remember) Industrially and in science nothing else exists. My bad for failing to point out that I meant Celsius as 110 Kelvin(-163.15 Celsius) would be past the freezing point of Oxygen (54.36 K)

er.. I did point out :p

What temperature does resin soften at? I once (advisedly or not) shifted the bottom rudder bearing by heating the surrounding area with a hot air gun and applying force.
 
Re: VIDEO UPDATE. 005 the Lady itself.

What temperature does resin soften at? I once (advisedly or not) shifted the bottom rudder bearing by heating the surrounding area with a hot air gun and applying force.
More than 105c but some epoxy such as araldite has a low melting point. Much lower that Greg is planning to have in his sauna.
 
This project was barely feasible when it was a fit out based on a viable hull but now the integrity of the hull is questionable, it's surely not worth doing.
 
This project was barely feasible when it was a fit out based on a viable hull but now the integrity of the hull is questionable, it's surely not worth doing.

You have a point, but there’s a kink in that line of thought. This would be barely feasible if we were to use the “traditional” methods used by most.
We’re not doing that.
Any project is Feasible, it’s just a question of three variables, Knowledge, Time, money.
More knowledge= less time and less money
We were aware of the condition of the hull and saw it before finishing the purchase. You cannot escape the bubbles on the side
IT is very well worth doing from a financial perspective. There’s going to be some engineering done to the boat and not only will she be restored, but by the time we’re finished with her, she will be a beautiful little Lady.
 
You have a point, but there’s a kink in that line of thought. This would be barely feasible if we were to use the “traditional” methods used by most.
We’re not doing that.
Any project is Feasible, it’s just a question of three variables, Knowledge, Time, money.
More knowledge= less time and less money
We were aware of the condition of the hull and saw it before finishing the purchase. You cannot escape the bubbles on the side
IT is very well worth doing from a financial perspective. There’s going to be some engineering done to the boat and not only will she be restored, but by the time we’re finished with her, she will be a beautiful little Lady.

Talk about sunlit uplands and looking on the bright side:D You are one of life optimists and your glass is always overflowing.:encouragement: I have no doubt that you will eventually complete the job but the time schedule is a real unknown and with the best will in the world and all the second hand big items like engine, mast, boom, sails and winches there is no chance of it coming in on anywhere near your budget figure.
I do wish you all the best and hope the boat that Greg builds will be a good un.:encouragement:
 
Talk about sunlit uplands and looking on the bright side:D You are one of life optimists and your glass is always overflowing.:encouragement: I have no doubt that you will eventually complete the job but the time schedule is a real unknown and with the best will in the world and all the second hand big items like engine, mast, boom, sails and winches there is no chance of it coming in on anywhere near your budget figure.
I do wish you all the best and hope the boat that Greg builds will be a good un.:encouragement:

Agree, Greg you have got to be the most positive person I have known. Like Oddball said 'Crazy... I mean like, so many positive waves... maybe we can't lose, you're on!'

hehe Thanks guys :encouragement::cool: It's nice to be the object of so much praise.

Having said that, I'm normally the one that worries. :p
 
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