Boats with old(ish) engines

A bit less than £150 usually but if you are not prepared to spend any money then you will never get any benefit from one so probably not worth finding out what you are missing.

However just so that you don't die of curiosity it is a device for splitting the charge from your alternator to your two banks of batteries. Ensures your engine start battery is always charged so that you can still start your engine if your house battery is run flat.

I have a switch that directs the current to whichever of the two batteries I choose or both at the same time so naturally I make sure the starter battery gets president.How is it any different to that?
 
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I have been put off a couple of otherwise quite nice looking boats by the fact that they have old Volvo engines for which are apparently no spare parts. OK that's a slight exaggeration, some parts are out of production, but that still worries me enough to put me off and make me look the other way. Terrible when common sense pours cold water over your romantic notions.
I am now avoiding MD and ND type Volvo engines.

I was wondering about Bukh though, does anyone know if parts can be relatively easily sourced for a Bukh DV20hp engine? I tried a search and found a servicing kit and a couple of old engines for sale but not a lot otherwise. I really like the boat that this one is attached to and was hoping for some reassurance on this, if anyone has experience or knowledge of this type of engine?

I think I am getting close to the end of my boat search, but it might be back to the drawing board...

Thanks for any info as always

Robert

We sold our previous boat with the original MD2B in it. Whilst old, it ran well, never had any issues starting and had only been lightly used (circa 1100 hours in 30 years). If like me, you are drawn to an older boat which is in good nick, you may well find it is in good nick as it has only been lightly used, and so you will find that the engine has only been lightly used as well. When we sold, several potential purchasers wanted the cost of a new engine off the boat. I can't blame them for trying, but at the end of the day I knew as well as they did that they were only trying to get money off and had no intention of replacing a perfectly good engine. So the boat never went to them! The only downside to that engine was the noise.

The boat we have now has a Bukh DV24. This replaced the original DV20 5 or 6 years ago, which I would hazard had been well used! I am more than pleased with it. It is not the quietest I've seen, but compared to the MD2B it is almost silent. Parts seem easily available. The only downside is that for servicing I still seem to spend half my life in the cockpit locker to get to the back of the engine. OK, it's only been a season with the new one so far but I'd have no reservations about getting another.

In general though, I wouldn't be too worried about old engines. New ones are nice, but definately not a reason to rule boats out.
 
Difficult to know where to start with the misconceptions and inaccuracies here. Some of your observationsn about what constitutes a marine engine might have been valid 40 years ago but are not valid now. Nobody would dream of having a starting handle for a car now so why do they need it in a boat?
Those of us who have owned the old style marine engines would never go back to them through choice.f
But of course I exaggerated :)
Nevertheless still have a starting handle for a car...
There is still something to say for engine that can be submerged in seawater and started by hand, so small fishing boats still use such. Not that I would recommend installing in a yacht now, only no reason to throw away if somebody already has one. And I would personally change old Bukh for new, so to spare me problems with installation.
Byt it is true - old Bukh would shake some new boats to pieces, or the owner :D
I have a Perkins myself, but would name it industrial tractor kind, or may be even called automotive.
 
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I have a switch that directs the current to whichever of the two batteries I choose or both at the same time so naturally I make sure the starter battery gets president.How is it any different to that?

And how do you decide when to switch your switch? Guess? :)

It's fully automatic, switch batteries on and it does the rest, no remembering to switch on or off the engine battery.

Start engine, all the charge goes to the engine battery until the voltage reaches 13.5 IIRC at which point it joins your house and engine batteries. Switch engine off, and both banks are used. When the voltage of the combined bank drops to 12.7 the Voltage Sensitive Relay opens and the battery banks are separate again. So even if you used all your house battery your engine battery is still full.

No guessing how much charge to put into the start battery, or someone turning the switch the wrong way or leaving all the batteries combined. Easy to fit and priceless. It really is a fit and forget bit of kit. :)
 
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One other thought about old engines is they are built like a brick *hithouse and are not lifed, modern engines are lifed to 8,000 hours and cost around £8,000 for a 50HP engine. I once asked Volvo haw much it would cost to build a modern engine to the build quality of the MD series and they said £16,000 which is why they don't do it.
 
I have a switch that directs the current to whichever of the two batteries I choose or both at the same time so naturally I make sure the starter battery gets president.How is it any different to that?

It does a similar job automatically and charges the engine start battery first then the house battery. The two banks are kept quite separate so you can't run down your engine start by mistake.

21st century, well late 20th anyway.
 
One other thought about old engines is they are built like a brick *hithouse and are not lifed, modern engines are lifed to 8,000 hours and cost around £8,000 for a 50HP engine. I once asked Volvo haw much it would cost to build a modern engine to the build quality of the MD series and they said £16,000 which is why they don't do it.

You would be lucky to get an old Volvo to run 8000 hours. It would rot away long before that. 8000 hours is over 50 years of typical yacht use.
 
the slug was £2,000

replacing the engine

guestimate..... £3,500

and slug would still only be worth £2,500

on cheap boats it seldom makes economic sense

D

The argument usually goes beyond pure economics, if you have spent a lot of effort getting the boat together you may not want to start again with a (to some extent unknown quantity) I appreciate that others will decide differently but having had a Trident 24 for 25 years which I put a new engine in 8 years ago, I'm still happy with the decision. The value increased by maybe a 1/3rd of the cost but that wasn't the point. Old boats need continual work to keep them up, but they do reward the effort. The way I see it is like buying an airline ticket, it isn't worth anything after use but it gets you where you want to be.
 
True story: When I bought current boat, we all accepted a fair price; broker, seller, buyer.
And I just assumed that at some point it would need a new engine. Probably not right away but at some point..
And I was particularly looking for a boat that would benefit from a refit and would lend itself, quality and construction-wise, to that. So a re-engine would fit in with that at some point too.
And heres the kicker...We all spend 10 or 15% of the value of our boat, annually, er, dont we? :eek:
To keep 'em in tip top condition. That is part of the running costs, joy and satisfaction of owning and using same:)
So, one engine= 10 or 15% of the value of the boat.. Simples:D

Don't be mean, don't be greedy, try to get 'some' adjustment overall on the price if you like it, and just accept that boats take time and money and are going to be fun..

Sooo, I would say don't discount an older engined boat out of hand, better to factor in a future replacement engine which will give YOU a better boat, just don't go relying on a boats secondhand engine/'overhaul'/fettling/history per se, whatever the age or declared hours..

I think the previous owner of mine was a tad surprised tho that I didn't actually leap to start the engine when viewing, esp as he'd gone to the trouble to warm it up n all, phnarr phnarr..
 
The argument usually goes beyond pure economics, if you have spent a lot of effort getting the boat together you may not want to start again with a (to some extent unknown quantity) I appreciate that others will decide differently but having had a Trident 24 for 25 years which I put a new engine in 8 years ago, I'm still happy with the decision. The value increased by maybe a 1/3rd of the cost but that wasn't the point. Old boats need continual work to keep them up, but they do reward the effort. The way I see it is like buying an airline ticket, it isn't worth anything after use but it gets you where you want to be.

Well said. I have read engined my boat twice in the 30 odd years I have had it. If you are a long term owner the measure is the value you get out of it not the cost in relation to market value.
 
You can in theory start a Bukh by hand but doubt anybody does when electric start is so easy.
BS - one can in practice start a DV24 by hand crank but like most things there is a knack to getting it to fire up first time. Yes, I do hand crank my old DV24 into life from time to time - just to prove to myself I have not "lost it" and yes I have had to do it in anger when SHMO has flattened all the batteries while watching movies and running the microwave etc and leaving the lights on half the night... No worries though just get the old crank handle out and give it some welly. - can't do that with a marinised tractor engine....:p
 
To get back to Robertt's point, have you contacted J N McDonald in Whiteinch to see if parts are available for the engine in the boat you are thinking of? There are a lot of us sailing about in boats with engines which are no longer in production and we can get bits if we know where to look.

No longer trading some staff at Fettes & Rankine at kip though!
 
BS - one can in practice start a DV24 by hand crank but like most things there is a knack to getting it to fire up first time. Yes, I do hand crank my old DV24 into life from time to time - just to prove to myself I have not "lost it" and yes I have had to do it in anger when SHMO has flattened all the batteries while watching movies and running the microwave etc and leaving the lights on half the night... No worries though just get the old crank handle out and give it some welly. - can't do that with a marinised tractor engine....:p

But if you had a well set up charging system as snooks suggested you would not end up with a flat battery.

I used to start my Stuart Turner by hand but my then labrador seadog hated it so reliable electric starting on the replacement Yanmar was a boon.
 
It's now called BV24 - main block the same, just new standard of measurement gives bigger number of horses :D
The DV20 is not the same as the DV24 - the extra 4 hp comes from the change from indirect to direct injection and different heads - granted the blocks are the same but the heads and fuel systems are totally different - note there is no "BV24" in the Bukh range
 
Yup, my mistake, only in this post; DV that is :) As DV 20 too.
Direct injection was necessary for environmental issues also. As for horsepower - old DIN measurement was different. I'm not sure how much difference there is, but usually it was about 10% less then now.
 
As for horsepower - old DIN measurement was different. I'm not sure how much difference there is, but usually it was about 10% less then now.

Ah, there may have been fewer of them, but they'm were proper British horses, as invented by James Watt. Built an empire on 'em we did. None of your foreign, fly-by-night, namby-pamby modern 'orses. No wonder they need more of 'em these days.
 
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