Boat in build pics (2013 Fairline Squadron 78)

I think I understand the design criteria for the idrive........

controlSmall.jpg
 
Last edited:
The trick with the cardboard imho is to get it looking right. Spray paint it or whatever, so it doesn't look a pile of manky packing tape. If you did it really well, you might not actually need to buy the real boat :-)

you're a very sad person mr J :D
defo worse than me!

V.
 
:D:D This forum is a bit of an asylum Vas, eh?
very true :D

Not sure if I should say so, but the other thing about CAD is that i like the smell of the glue and the spray paint, ooooh yes, :o:o;);)

ohhh, now you're dropping v.low indeed :p

the thing is I actually make my living teaching and researching CAAD and VR as well as interactive smart space design and all that digital palava, so I shouldn't agree with you :rolleyes:
But likewise, I was mocking up very crudely the design of my f/b helm in a similar manner yesterday, only difference was that I was doing it on the actual boat :D

and to make it more relevant to the thread, I obviously like the design but wasn't sure of the joystick layout, no hut controls???
How will you crawl sideways with just 2DOF?

cheers

V.
 
I think the wheel is redundant most of the time but I'm happy to keep it for occasional use, and I need it as part of my resale-price-maintenance strategy, which involves adding clever things but not frightening off the buyer (Match 1 was sold to a family owner-driver and a no-wheel helm would have spooked them)

Remeber the navigator/captain sits to the right of the wheel and the whole boat and a/pilot are driven from the screens

During our first season, the steering (Sleipner fly by wire electronic thingy) was very stiff. Excellent support from Sleipner - replaced the flybridge head - and now I can move the rudders from fully one way to the other in a matter of seconds using just my finger. i.e. - I poke my finger into the steering wheel's spokes and just spin it in whichever direction I want.

Anyway, to begin with, I would have agreed with you that a steering wheel isn't that necessary but now I use it a lot. If manouvering with no "way on", the rudders definately help with a turn - eg if you want to turn the boat on the spot, turning the rudders into the turn whilst splitting the throttles definately helps the turn so, now that the Sleipner fly by wire helm is working properly, I have changed my mind about a steering wheel and find it really useful.

A steering wheel is also much more intuative - our last passage home we arrived in complete darkness so the lookout crew was briefed - "I dont need to know that there's a lobster pot in front - if you see one just tell me which way to turn". A lot less to think about with a steering wheel - just turn it.
 
Steering is hydraulic so any electrical signals you generate can only operate the power steering pump, but that's ok. NMEA2000 can handle that. The steering is an independent thing, not connected to engine j1939 or anything like that, but that's ok. And there is no integrated trim on a fat boat this size, just trim tabs operated manually from the dash with NMEA2k connectivity serving only to display the tabs position on the nav screens

Fantastic boat you are building! I learn a lot for my small project - keep up the good giving us all your expertise.

Why not mount interceptors from www.Humphree.com instead of trim tabs? I am thinking about installing their boat control system with active ride control. I just got their broschyre about their new system that they will introduce in jan/feb and it looks really interesting!
 
Fantastic boat you are building! I learn a lot for my small project - keep up the good giving us all your expertise.

Why not mount interceptors from www.Humphree.com instead of trim tabs? I am thinking about installing their boat control system with active ride control. I just got their broschyre about their new system that they will introduce in jan/feb and it looks really interesting!
Hi Johang. Thanks for the kind comments. I cannot have Humphree style equipment because it tries to make the boat level automatically, but I already have proper fin stabilisers to do that (100x better than Humphree). The two systems might tend to "fight" each other, and anyway the fin stabilisers would "win" the fight and make the Humphree gear mostly irrelevant. I need/want good old fashioned manual-control nmea2k interfaced trim tabs
 
I need/want good old fashioned manual-control nmea2k interfaced trim tabs

nah, that's not good old fashioned! That's hi-tech mate!

Old fashion is what I have, tabs, pump and two sets of toggles to move them. No fcking idea where they are at any given moment (just use my stopwatch to calculate how long I keep the pump pumping to make sure they are moreorless level :D )
That's maximum lo-tech I recon ;)

V.
 
Here's a general update and first pic of white decks...

Lumishore underwater lights are installed. 6 of their new DMX enabled colour change series and even more light than the previous ones, especially in the red LEDs. Planning some good shark attack scenes. EME can give more details
DSC07619.jpg

DSC07620.jpg

MapisM, some nice stainless steel trim tab cylinders are going in those slots this time, you'll be pleased to hear:)


Below is the hull in early stage fit out. The 1.5inch grey butyl steel reinf piping that you can see quite a lot of is The Best Thing in shoite piping. Way better than the white plastic piping. I've done a lot of research and redesign of black tank stuff on this boat, and this includes new pipe runs and custom made aft black tank so there is no black piping under any cabin floor in the boat, and no black piping (other than in stainless steel thickwall, which I reckon is gonna be odour free...) anywhere in/under/near the master cabin
DSC07626.jpg



Below picture shows the big internal liner mould, first on the mould, then released and turned the right way up. This forms all the cabin floors, shower trays (you can see them either side on the first shot) and other stuff. It's a major reason for the creak-free ness of Fairlines. Few other builders make boats like this because it is too hard. This moulding, when bonded in, creates many girder like sections and eliminates creaky floors and such like, as well as shower leaks. It's in white gelcoat in accordance with my "no-beige" rule which even extends to bilge areas :). This is the first Sq78 with a white internal moulding
DSC07628.jpg

DSC07635.jpg



Here's another shot of the hull. I think one of the guys is cutting out a window panel
DSC07630.jpg



As an aside, I have asked Fairline to move the Cat digital displays from the sides of the engines, where you can't see them( !) to somehwere else. Cat have suggested handed brackets above the gearboxes like below, so this is what Fairline will install. Seems ok to me. Anyone think of any concerns with this? They are tucked in nicely between the turbos so do not restrict access to far sides of engines
Catdisplayovergearbox.jpg



Here is first pic i have of the white deck. Looks ok to me...! I hop to have shots of the side decks and bigger areas of deck next week
DSC07637.jpg



Below is CAD design for custom/unique "floating" flybridge aft stair case. This has RHS spine, round handrails and LED downlighting using those Osma "4 focussed pencil streaks of light" LEDs
flysteps.jpg



The pic below shows the boat 4 slots or so in front of mine being assembled prior to launch (yesterday, at Fairline Ipswich). Note to self: you can see right in those wndows at night :)
IMG_0062.jpg



The pic I put up a few days ago of the silver flybridge dash looked a bit beige-ish to me. It was taken on Essex Boatyards iPhone. I've now seen it in real life and it is proper silver, phew. This has been beautifuly made by the Essex Boatyards team - a fantastic GRP shaping and paint job. Huge thanks to the team in Essex.
IMG_0138.jpg

IMG_0140.jpg

IMG_0143.jpg


Cheers
 
I've done a lot of research and redesign of black tank stuff on this boat, and this includes new pipe runs and custom made aft black tank so there is no black piping under any cabin floor in the boat, and no black piping (other than in stainless steel thickwall, which I reckon is gonna be odour free


shoit disposal in boats is becoming your specialist subjet :D


the black tank, is it made from Stainless steel or some synthetic/plastic material ?
(I'm considering lowering part of the Util / engineroom floor in BA; for that I have to replace the blacktank, which is old and rusty anyway.)

interesting and impressive photos, thanks for the update
 
On a blimmin project so just popping in here briefly at stupid o'clock whilst catching breath. So anyway, the caulking on the stair treads on the f/b staircase is black on the CADs. Is this going to be the case in reality or jsut illustrative?

Gotta dash. Matron's calling. :D
 
the caulking on the stair treads on the f/b staircase is black on the CADs.
LOL, talk about forum quality control... :D

Actually, I would consider also the option of having no caulking at all, on those steps.
Imho, large wooden planks with no caulking are the most elegant choice for interiors (as in Blue Angel saloon, frinstance), and that stair visually "belongs" much more to the interior than to the decks.

Re. the Cat displays, J, aren't you having some sort of s/s tubes above and around the engines (those which in turn can also support steel flat panels above the engines, which are useful in many circumstances)?
I'm asking because if a couple of these tubes are extended to the ceiling, they could also support the instruments above the engines, either in the same place as in your pic above or on the engines sides, both facing the corridor between the engines.
I'd prefer the latter btw, and don't understand what you mean when you say that on M1 they weren't visible on the side of the engines.
Ahem, did they put them on the external side, rather than inside...?!? :eek:
Anyway, regardless of the position, I'd rather have the instruments 1) higher, and 2) not mechanically attached to the engines.
 
i was a bit concerned regards having white caulking between the teak but after having seen the pic i must now admit i really like it, it looks so fresh and bright i think it will look great on that boat well done for having the nerve to go for it i dont think i could have ordered a new boat and made all the little changes you have a credit to your vision
 
John, with respect to the Cat display position, those turbo's are going to get mighty hot. Will the panels need insulation?

I wondered that too, you wouldn't want the radiant heat to bake the flexibility additive out of the PVC insulation on the wiring and the loom sleeving. I suspect not an issue because the turbo's most likely have water cooled snails.
 
Top