Boat engine doesn't start all of a sudden

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I have an old boat with a 2 stroke 60hp overboard. Took it out last weekend and it wouldn't start in the water. But after a couple of tries, the engine started and we came back home. But since then the boat doesn't start anymore. All equipments get power but when I turn the ignition key, I hear a small click noise behind the steer wheel. The engine doesn't seem to get any power at all. There's a ignition circuit breaker switch between the battery and all equipment, which I replaced with a new one but still no luck.

I'm very new to boats, so any suggestion will be helpful.
 

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Either the battery is failing or the solenoid on the starter motor. Another option is a dodgy electrical connection possibly on the starter motor.

Where is the "solenoid on the starter motor"? All I can see is cables going to the batter and between that is the ignition circuit breaker. The battery voltage shows 12.6v.
 

Seastoke

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Surely the starter solenoid will be in the engine cowl .
If it is clicking behind the dash try to feel or look up the back and see what is going on .or follow the wires from the battery do they go straight to the engine.
 

Bigplumbs

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This is very likely one of 3 things that are very simple and they have already been mentioned.

1) The connections at the battery terminals are poor (This will happen if a boat is not used for a while) Take off the battery cable at the battery and slightly rough up/file the battery terminal to get a good connection. Smear some Vaseline of the terminals, reconnect the cable and try again.

2) The Bendix on the top of the starter motor is not engaging correctly. Take off the hood spin it by hand and oil with WD40.

3) The solenoid on the Starter motor has a bad connection and needs cleaning. Or possibly but not so likely a knackered solenoid.

All of these things should be a very easy fix

What is the Engine you have.
 

oldharry

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If there is no noise from the starter, its most lkely to be a bad contact or dying battery.

Check the battery with a Multimeter (£8.50 from Halfords or Amazon) set to 20v range: conne ted across the battery terminals you should be seeing at least 12volts.

Next bit is dead easy, spray some WD40 on each terminal both red and black both at the battery, and the starte. make sure you do the black wires too.

If there is a bad contact it should start properly. Unfortunately ths is only a temporary repair, as when the WD dries off the fault will reappear! This works on corroded car battery terminals too, and I have more than once started a 'dead' car doing this.

The science is that the starter takes a much heavier current than anything else, so while low current devices like lights and instruments continue to work, the faulty terminal is not capable of passing the high amperage, so nothing happens.

If this doesnt work then try loosening each terminal, wiggle it to and fro a bit then retighten it. If this doesnt work, the prolbem is more than likely in the starter motor. You can use your DV Meter to check for voltage drop to and across each temrinal ifd you are feeling clever!

Important: when working on a 'live' red cable, make sure the battery is disconnected. If the spanner on a live terminal touches any other metallic bit, you will geta very loud bang, a damaged spanner, and possibly quite nasty burn to your hand!

I know a mechanic who shorted a 12v battery through the spanner, via his wedding ring to the engine. It burnt his ring finger to the bone literally in a flash! He was off work for many months: they saved the finger, but not the molten gold ring!
 

Oscar24

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If you have one of them battery isolation type switches (red key type 1/4 turn) don't assume that with it in the 'on' position, the connection is any good. It may not supply sufficient current when cranking an engine. Very common failure esp when exposed to salt water air.
To check, put a voltmeter on the output side of the switch and see you still get 12v going to the engine when cranking.
 

Bigplumbs

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Attached a few photos and a video that shows the clicking noise when I turn the key. The batter is showing to have 12.6v. The other images shows the battery and the ignition protection switch. Now sure how to debug it. :(

Link: IMG_1952.JPG and 3 more files
Not sure I am happy to download those files. Just post the pics here in the normal way

Did you look into the many suggestions people posted above as you have not commented about any if those. I am starting to wonder if you are perhaps having a laugh
 
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Boathook

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You should be able to post pictures here after a few posts. Make sure that they are resized to view on a screen. Normally around 200 to 400 Kb size.
Make of engine, etc is required as they do vary.
 

QBhoy

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That does not stop it from turning over it just cuts off the ignition
Used to think similar, but since learned that it’s not always the case bigplumbs. But for the sake of this event, I’d strongly think most 60hp 2 strokes over a certain age would likely turn over without the lanyard in.
But I know for sure that some more modern outboards won’t turn over. Only because I tried it yesterday on my own outboard. I was wanting to turn her over without firing up straight away, just to avoid a stone cold start up in -8 temperatures!
 

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