Boat deck replacement. (Wood) UK

MikeSutherland1956

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I have recently bought a Miller Fifer which needs the decking replaced.

The original decking is teak but I have read that Burmese Teak is now banned in UK.(although plantation Teak is still legal)

I have been recommended white oak.

Any advice?
 

ianc1200

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Mike, have you got a solid teak deck that's rotted? Bit unusual, but it's often the beams/beamshelves/lodging knees etc under which go rotten, because of the caulking to solid teak has failed, but needs the deck taken up to get at those structural elements under.
 

MikeSutherland1956

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Underside teak has rot. Where there is Marine ply underneath that has rotten instead and not the teak.

The Teak that isn't rotten is worse for ware.

The bow of the boat has badly constructed fibre glass which I aim to replace with wood.
 

Wansworth

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Please can you describe the problems in boatbuilding terminology,what is underside teak…….badly constructed fiber glass inthe bow?….will make it easier for people to help……and photos
 

ianc1200

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To get at the ply the teak will have to come off - usually then revealing subdeck problems you can't see until the ply has been removed. "The bow covered in fibreglass" - is this the top of the deck/other structure, or down the hull/stem? if so perhaps ends of planks rotten? A photo or two would clarify.
 

ianc1200

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Mike, search FB for Miller Fifer and then look at Peter Macko's posts. There's 64 photo's, many of taking deck off and showing supporting structure under, fairly typical of what you would find.
 

MikeSutherland1956

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To get at the ply the teak will have to come off - usually then revealing subdeck problems you can't see until the ply has been removed. "The bow covered in fibreglass" - is this the top of the deck/other structure, or down the hull/stem? if so perhaps ends of planks rotten? A photo or two would clarify.
She is under tarp for now. The deck of the bow (forgive my terminology) is poorly constructed fibre glass (it should be teak decking). There is Marine ply underneath the fibre glass.
 

Wansworth

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Would be helpful to get info about the construction the grp bitin the bows sounds odd.If money is a problem there would be no reason why two layers of ply glued with epoxy would not be good especially as the ply would add considerable stiffening to the deck
 

Keith 66

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Teak over plywood is always bad news once it gets old, too many screw holes & bungs & too many mastic lines to fail. Water will get in it, always does. Then the plywood subdeck rots.
If you want a laid deck do it with solid timber, I wonder if Ipe would be suitable? Its used for decking & available though it is far harder than teak.
A ply deck is good if its covered in glass cloth & epoxy. Forget polyester.
Your main problem today is finding decent plywood, if you want to use really good stuff its Robbins elite or Brynzeel, both are eye wateringly expensive. Anything else is a lottery with much far eastern ply appearing to be stuck together with wallpaper paste.
 

ianc1200

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Fed up re-canvasing my decks, I laid Robbins Elite (very thin, about 3 - 4mm) in epoxy over douglas fir decks, then woven rovings & epoxy on top. Ten years later problems started, I think due to the large number of fixings through that construction. The elite was like black rotten cardboard. Currently the deck is off again, beam shelf, lodging knees and deck beam replacements to be done, but it does go back it will be iroko t & g, V jointed, with canvas over. I know several people would go with Robbins ply (would have done in two 1/2" layers with fake V joints under routed out) but think better to go with what i trust, even if it means re-canvasing every six years or so. Plus in taking the old canvas up you can see any problems developing.
 

Hacker

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It would if you could get thick enough teak. You would need to lay it properly with a caulking bevel, caulk and then paye it. Alternatively you could lay a ply sub deck, sheath it with e-glass (using polyester or epoxy) and then stick a thinner teak deck down. Will be much cheaper.
 
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