Biofuel in UK Diesel

Up to around 5% bio-diesel is added to all supplies,as well as a boat I run a farm and have been trying to get a reliable figure of how much Bio-diesel is added to red diesel. My supplier does not know or wont tell. However they have informed me that there are problems with keeping qualities and that "no more than 6 months supply should be kept" this I can deal with on the farm but not so easy with the boat if you want to keep tanks full up over wimter, it may not be a good idea.
There are several problpems with bio-diesel on boats, or indeed anywhere else come to that.
1) It does not keep for very long
2) It can damage some materials within the fuel systems, I have recently had to replace rubber gaskets on Tex tanks inspection hatches on diesel tanks. I wonder what else may break down.They supplied me with cork gaskets to replace.
3) Bio-diesel is much more likely to attract fuel bug as I discovered to my cost and potential risk of accident, engine died during bash to windward close to Selsey Bill in some nasty conditions. Luckily managed to sail back to Sovereign harbour.
4) We the customer have no choice in the matter at all we have to have a percentage of the stuff whether we want to or not.
5) And finally and this may not be on everybodies agenda but it most certainly is mine. The production of Bio-fuel does nothing to reduce fossil fuels as the cultivation, production and distribution takes up just as much energy as it saves. All is does is take precious land out of food production and deprive a huge swathe of the global population the chance to eat a decent diet and have food security.
 
Piers said:
This is a problem for me since I carry 3,500 ltrs in four which can last years. Is there a "Viagra style additive" that can rejuvenate the diesel?
Click to expand...

There are a number of additives that reduce the incince of the dreaded bug. I use Startron, and there are several others. To my knowledge, a percentage of bio is compulsory in red for use inland. Our marina at Tewkesbury supplies diesel with up to 7% bio, but also treats the fuel. Coastal supplies do not currently need bio. These are due to Eu Regulations for emissions, mainly around sulphur and pm.
 
Being heavily involved in the sale of marine diesel I can guarantee there is NO bio content (aka FAME) in marina diesel sold in Lymington. I believe, but cannot be certain, that this is the case in other marinas in the Solent area because it all comes out of Esso at Fawley.

The red marine product is known as GO10, Gas Oil with 10ppm sulphur.

At work, I have a datasheet from Esso which states that the FAME content is 'possible traces'. This is because they wont guarantee that it is 0% in case there is any contamination in the distribution process. Road diesel is allowed to be up to 7% FAME.
 
In addition to previous post, there is requirement for marine diesel retailers to sell fuel with FAME if they are in Category A or B waters, but not if they are in C or D. This is because vessels in open waters are at greater risk IF repeat IF there are any problems as a result of FAME, hence the production of GO10 as above.

The category of UK locations are listed here (except the site is/was down when I posted the link)
 
Piers said:
I've always added wither Soltron or Fuel Doctor, but it's more something to add that keeps diesel powerful for more than the 6 months some say bio-fuel lasts.

Sadly, the site mentioned by moodyNick is off-air...
Click to expand...

I don't believe there are octane booster's for diesel, like petrol, but diesel does not degrade like petrol over time. The issue with diesel is the potential for water to introduce the dreaded bug. This is where bio fuel can be more of a problem.
 
rafiki_ said:
I don't believe there are octane booster's for diesel, like petrol, but diesel does not degrade like petrol over time. The issue with diesel is the potential for water to introduce the dreaded bug. This is where bio fuel can be more of a problem.
Click to expand...

So it's a question of keeping the diesel water free - such as with a fuelpolishing system?
 
I follow the biocide route.

Diesel available to boats has changed content and Fame is around.

The important thing is to be absolutely scrupulous abot removing water from your filters and tanks, I have sumps in mine which I can strip by using a suction line, we do this at least annualy.

I have had a problem and have controlled it by filtering the fuel, then treating with a biocide Grotamar 71 and regular stripping of the sump in my tanks.

I now use Grotamar 82 which is formulated for bio diesel as well and dose with every load at the apropriate normal treatment rate of one litre to four thousand. Grotamar 82 is tested and complys with the new EEC biocide regulations which some others do not.

Soltron is an enzyme that has been around for donkeys years for mineral diesel and works by emulsyfying the water and allowing it to pass through the engine and get burnt. I dont know if it is compliant with the new regs.

I dont want any water going anywhere near my inection pump and injectors, on a mechanical engine water damage will cost about £2 to 3k per engine to sort out and on a common rail engine £3.5 to 5k per engine plus a full tank clean say another £1 to 1.5k.

Having had a problem my diesel is now clear and sparkly.

Your prefilters should after use be lightly darkened, perhaps a little dust but clean with a little debris after use, if you have slime or strings of slime in your prefilter you have a problem easy to see in a Racor but in sealed cartridges such as Fleetguard the only way to know is to hack saw off the crimped end and open up the paper cartridge, dont do this on your teak deck.

If you get water in your prefilters and have drain the filters then you have a substantial ammount of water in your tanks and you risk taking a gulp in heavy weather and getting it past the filters to the engine.

For anyone who has severe contamination ie blocked filters dont chuck a high dose of biocide or enzyme into your tank , assume all is ok and set out to sea you could kill a matt of slime at the bottom of your tanks or on the sides or bulkheads that would block fuel lines and stop the engines. If you have severe contamination you need to treat your fuel with a shock dose of biocide then clean the tanks and filter the fuel to remove all water and bug.
 
Quest

Bio activity reduces with temperature but the liklihood of condensation in the tank increases and some peoples winter of not using the boat is end of sept to 1st may so 7 months, so probably 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.

If you think you have a problem check it and if nescesary sort it, it wont get better of its own accord. Sooner rather than later.
 
I was thinking more about whether or not there is a need to treat the fuel all year round or just over the winter when condensation is likely to be greater. I'm guessing from your response that you would advise all yr round?
 
Quest said:
Is Diesel Bug a greater risk of forming/growing in the winter rather than in the summer?:confused:
Andrew
Click to expand...

Yes, due to the cold, forming condensation inside your fuel tank. Best is to brim your tank so there is little air gap for condensation for form within. Diesel floats on water, lower specific gravity, so water can collect in the bottom of your tank. Therefore it is a good idea to siphon out from the bottom of your tank every cole of years, but clearly you need access to get your hose in!

Rafiki's tank is made from Aluminium, and in the winter, the outside of the tank is covered in condensation. It would be the same inside the tank, if there were any air gap.
 
The other bit of joy is the biproduct of the bug the excreta is acidic and attacks aluminium and other metals, the record I have seen is a 3year old puk production fly with ally tanks holed through the base.
 
rafiki_ said:
Yes, due to the cold, forming condensation inside your fuel tank. Best is to brim your tank so there is little air gap for condensation for form within. Diesel floats on water, lower specific gravity, so water can collect in the bottom of your tank. Therefore it is a good idea to siphon out from the bottom of your tank every cole of years, but clearly you need access to get your hose in!

Rafiki's tank is made from Aluminium, and in the winter, the outside of the tank is covered in condensation. It would be the same inside the tank, if there were any air gap.
Click to expand...

Rafiki,
So do you treat all year round or just for the winter?
Andrew
 
Quest said:
Rafiki,
So do you treat all year round or just for the winter?
Andrew
Click to expand...

I treat every fill. Saturday night on board didn't drop below 8C, however, the ammount of condensation on everything was incredible. This soon dried out with the sun on Sunday morning, but of course, the sun doesn't get to the inside of my fuel tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

boatmike
Merry Fisher 695
Replies
3
Views
225
Bouba
Bouba
W
  • Locked
KAD32 Injector and sleeves
Replies
0
Views
117
Wobbo
W
cyberkryten
We finally bought a boat - Merry Fisher 895s2
2 3
Replies
40
Views
1K
Neil1300r
Neil1300r

Share this page

Top