Bilge Pump Float Switch.

[jamie N]

The bilge float switch has been on the boat for about a couple of years, and hasn't deteriorated at all; why would it? However, it's always been slightly intermittent in operation by way of the float being light, enough that on occasion it hasn't switched itself off, and has stayed in the up/floating position, which would drain the battery.
Today I removed it, cleaned it, although it had been cleaned previously to remove any crud that might have been interfering with the action, and shaped some 'Polymorph' around the float to increase its weight.
Testing it in the marina office sink showed it to work, still with plenty of buoyancy to activate it and enough mass to close it easily also, but of course we'll evaluate it over the next few months.
Thought that it might help someone else with the same issue.

 

[Refueler]

What I find is that any crud soft or hard that gets into the pivot of the float can cause sticking up. Hopefully your extra weight can help.

I gave up on separate float for this reason and now use combined switch / pump units - at least they have a rudimentary fliter to stop hard stuff ... I did use the Electronic Watermaid ... but that failed after a few years.

 

[geem]

What I find is that any crud soft or hard that gets into the pivot of the float can cause sticking up. Hopefully your extra weight can help.

I gave up on separate float for this reason and now use combined switch / pump units - at least they have a rudimentary fliter to stop hard stuff ... I did use the Electronic Watermaid ... but that failed after a few years.

I found the combined units worse than those with seperate floats. At least when you have a normal floatswitch fail it's easy to change

 

[PaulRainbow]

Use a water sensor such as Whale Electric Field Sensor Bilge Pump Switch BE9003 - Marine Scene

No moving parts, just need to give it an occasional wipe.

 

[jamie N]

This is the type I've got now, very common, very simple but the item I've got is too poorly made with a too lightweight float. Annoyingly simple fault.

 

[Refueler]

I found the combined units worse than those with seperate floats. At least when you have a normal floatswitch fail it's easy to change

OK - if the switch fails ... then agreed - but then all you do is revert the pump to non auto...... by removing the floater inside the filter ... wiring in a separate. No need to ditch the pump.

The switch is rare to fail as all it is really is a weighted magnetic ball inside that flips a relay. Its the relay that fails if ever. I have float switches on my bench that are so old - Noah would think them antique !!

 

[geem]

OK - if the switch fails ... then agreed - but then all you do is revert the pump to non auto...... by removing the floater inside the filter ... wiring in a separate. No need to ditch the pump.

The switch is rare to fail as all it is really is a weighted magnetic ball inside that flips a relay. Its the relay that fails if ever. I have float switches on my bench that are so old - Noah would think them antique !!

My main sump pump is a Rule. The seperate float switch pre-dates my ownership so at least 2012. In the event of failure, its mounted on a Star-board rod that is fixed with two screws at the top. My sump is deep. I can undo the screws and replace the float switch in 5 mins.
I installed a pump with a built in float for the engine bilge. That failed after a few months but was a sod to fix. Pump removal and rewire of the pump for a seperate float took a couple of hours. It now has a separate pump and float meaning either can be replaced quickly.
It's amazing how much crud the Rule pumps can deal with but the float in a cage jams with the slightest bit of debris. I won't go back to combined pump and float setup. Not reliable enough for me

 

[Refueler]

Fine "geem" .... swings and roundabouts .... I got fed up with separate getting stuff lodged under it ...

Trying to understand why wiring change was so hard ... just forget the auto wire and put the replacement float in the manual on wire .. you can even wire that to be manual on as well

 

[geem]

Fine "geem" .... swings and roundabouts .... I got fed up with separate getting stuff lodged under it ...

Trying to understand why wiring change was so hard ... just forget the auto wire and put the replacement float in the manual on wire .. you can even wire that to be manual on as well

Simply because the pump and float in the engine bilge are under the engine. Access is the issue. The new setup with a pump that just unclipped from the filter is easy. The float doesn't clog as its open with no cage around it

 

[Refueler]

Simply because the pump and float in the engine bilge are under the engine. Access is the issue. The new setup with a pump that just unclipped from the filter is easy. The float doesn't clog as its open with no cage around it

But my auto pump unclips from filter ... same as pump without auto float ????

 

[geem]

But my auto pump unclips from filter ... same as pump without auto float ????

I understand, but I don't need to unclip an open float as it doesn't clog unlike the caged version.