Buck Turgidson
Well-known member
As previously mentioned, when your house battery is big enough to take the starter load without flinching it will stay connected during engine starts .
The starter battery is doing nothing because the house battery is a monster and is doing all the work.So that is happening here exactly? Is the starter battery not dropping below the 12V required to have a swift disconnect? If so, is that because you've got a fantastic starter battery, or is it because charge flows from house to starter during cranking? Either way, is it really a problem?
The video shows my house doing most of the work. That’s with a new 60ah start battery. I don’t have an ammeter on the start batt so I can’t say for sure how much load it takes but the previous one was dead and the engine started normally with the same load on the house bat.It must be doing *something* though, as they are effectively in parallel. I just replaced my starter battery and installed a Cyrix and I'm pretty sure the engine fires up more easily now. I wonder if that could be due to the service battery participating. The cheapskates at Victron didn't include an LED indicator for the 120A Cyrix so you've got no idea what the switch is doing.
We have large led voltmeter for our batteries on the main panel. They tell you quite a lotIt must be doing *something* though, as they are effectively in parallel. I just replaced my starter battery and installed a Cyrix and I'm pretty sure the engine fires up more easily now. I wonder if that could be due to the service battery participating. The cheapskates at Victron didn't include an LED indicator for the 120A Cyrix so you've got no idea what the switch is doing.
When the batteries are parallel due to the VSR being closed the voltage is the same for both.We have large led voltmeter for our batteries on the main panel. They tell you quite a lot
Off course. But when it isn't closed, the engine battery voltage would drop if there was a cell downWhen the batteries are parallel due to the VSR being closed the voltage is the same for both.
If the engine battery is up to the job it will start the engine, the domestics will contribute some, but not do the whole job.The starter battery is doing nothing because the house battery is a monster and is doing all the work.
Yes and that currently only happens at night when the engine is off.Off course. But when it isn't closed, the engine battery voltage would drop if there was a cell down
It’s the difference in capacity/cca that has me thinking the whole philosophy of small starter battery/ large house bat is pointless if you fit a VSR and have solar charging. What I have is a main battery that does everything during the day and a small battery that starts the engine at night.If the engine battery is up to the job it will start the engine, the domestics will contribute some, but not do the whole job.
It’s the difference in capacity/cca that has me thinking the whole philosophy of small starter battery/ large house bat is pointless if you fit a VSR and have solar charging.
I may as well have two equal sized batteries with this setup.
See the other thread. A charge voltage from an mppt will keep the cyrix closed . Even if it’s only milliamperes worth of current. You can only see battery voltage when the contact is open and that will happen when your solar stops or perhaps when your alternator overheats .CCA considerations aside, a good reason for having a separate starter battery is that there's no way for the house loads to drain it and leave you stranded. Even in your case the Cyrix accomplishes that, since the it will open if one of the batteries drops and stays below 12.8V.
See I think this is what I don't get, my understanding is that if the battery is over 13V it must be charging, i.e. more current is going in than being consumed. I'm hardly an expert on the matter though.
You have no way to measure the battery voltage, that’s the whole point. The internal resting battery voltage could be 5V for all you know, but the circuit voltage might be 13V and that’s what the VSR and your multimeter would measure. They are very dumb devices made out to be very clever devices.See I think this is what I don't get, my understanding is that if the battery is over 13V it must be charging, i.e. more current is going in than being consumed. I'm hardly an expert on the matter though.
Thanks, I see this consistently and it helps explain my other thread. What many won’t realise is that although the shunt measures the discharge on the house bank, the start battery is also draining if the VSR is closed, it’s just not being measuredBattery discharging at 13.05v with charger connected in storage mode at 13.2 . Charger amps increased as load increased. This was a transmission on vhf. h ipower. Charger amps increased to about 2.5 at the same time so the battery can definitely discharge with voltage above 13v when charging source is paralleled.
No way. My smart shunt and mppt read the same. The MPPT uses the smart shunts voltage via Bluetooth. Even without, the MPPT voltage is only slightly different due to volt drop. I also have independent voltmeter on the main panel. They read the same battery voltage but independentlyYou have no way to measure the battery voltage, that’s the whole point. The internal resting battery voltage could be 5V for all you know, but the circuit voltage might be 13V and that’s what the VSR and your multimeter would measure. They are very dumb devices made out to be very clever devices.