30boat
N/A
Is there a car alternative to the BD722(20hp) temperature sender?
Thanks
Thanks
Beta temperature sender
- Thread starter 30boat
- Start date
stevebirch2002
Well-Known Member
Not that I know of. Do you need one? Need engine number and K number and I will ask Beta for you....
Steve
Steve
dam747iam
Well-Known Member
asap supplies do senders and thread adaptors
freebird1
Well-Known Member
Why do you need one? Defective or does alarm sound when engine running at higher revs? Know of one that did this.
Leo2
Well-Known Member
They do not fit Beta senders to cars. Beta senders have dual functions, it will operate the warning light and buzzer, but will also work gauge should you have a Beta Panel with a temperature gauge fitted. Note they also vary with the manufacturers of the gauges i.e. VDO, Murphy.
If you are interested am pretty sure we have a previously fitted but un-used sender. Will look tomorrow and let you know.
www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk
If you are interested am pretty sure we have a previously fitted but un-used sender. Will look tomorrow and let you know.
www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk
30boat
N/A
Thanks Steve and Leona.If Leona can find a used one I'll go for that.if not I'll get the engine nº next time I'm down at the boat.The alarm sounds when the engine is run at higher,but not too high,revs for a while and it is obviously not overheating.It sometimes sops sounding after a while and sometimes not.
Leo2
Well-Known Member
If the alarm sounds it is worth checking the water flow through the system, starting at the point of entry.
The skin fitting should be at the last 3/4" BSP (3/4" - 19mm) internal diameter. This should be clear through the skin fitting, seacock, strainer, hose to the pump. The pump impeller should be in good order.ie. no wear of blades on ends or blade tips. Blades should be flexible with no signs of perishing/cracking at blade root. If you have had damaged/broken impellers in the past, have you retrieved all the broken parts? These broken parts can end up in the pump port, both inlet and outlet, also they can be passed through and sometimes jam in the pipe between the outlet of the pump and the heat exchanger!
The heat exchanger end caps can be removed to expose the tube stack and any obstructions, the bulk of this will be trapped at the anode end cap. Sometimes the erroded zinc remnants can cause a partial blockage of the tube stack. The small bore holes through the tube stack should be clear. These can be rodded out with a straightened coat hanger or fencing wire.
The water injection pipe in the exhaust bend can corrode on the aluminium models; also check the exhaust system must not have any restrictions. This can cause a rise in the engine temperature and loss of power. Exhaust hoses can blister and de-vulcanise, generally just after the exhaust bend.
A water flow test can be carried out with the vessel afloat. With engine running in neutral, hold a large bucket at the exhaust outlet whilst running the engine at full throttle for ten second (timed with watch) the bucket should contain no less than 4.5 litres of water. If there is less than there is one or more of the faults previously mentioned.
www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk
The skin fitting should be at the last 3/4" BSP (3/4" - 19mm) internal diameter. This should be clear through the skin fitting, seacock, strainer, hose to the pump. The pump impeller should be in good order.ie. no wear of blades on ends or blade tips. Blades should be flexible with no signs of perishing/cracking at blade root. If you have had damaged/broken impellers in the past, have you retrieved all the broken parts? These broken parts can end up in the pump port, both inlet and outlet, also they can be passed through and sometimes jam in the pipe between the outlet of the pump and the heat exchanger!
The heat exchanger end caps can be removed to expose the tube stack and any obstructions, the bulk of this will be trapped at the anode end cap. Sometimes the erroded zinc remnants can cause a partial blockage of the tube stack. The small bore holes through the tube stack should be clear. These can be rodded out with a straightened coat hanger or fencing wire.
The water injection pipe in the exhaust bend can corrode on the aluminium models; also check the exhaust system must not have any restrictions. This can cause a rise in the engine temperature and loss of power. Exhaust hoses can blister and de-vulcanise, generally just after the exhaust bend.
A water flow test can be carried out with the vessel afloat. With engine running in neutral, hold a large bucket at the exhaust outlet whilst running the engine at full throttle for ten second (timed with watch) the bucket should contain no less than 4.5 litres of water. If there is less than there is one or more of the faults previously mentioned.
www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk
30boat
N/A
Thanks,I've done all those tests and nothing is amiss.The heat exhanger was dismantled and cleaned last season,the impeller is new and I never had blades braking off ,the exhaust bend is not corroded inside and the flow is very good.On top of everything the engine doesn't feel too hot as I can rest my hand for a while on the engine block when it is at working temperature.I'm pretty sure that the sender is faulty.
