Beta 20....starting problems......where to start looking??

sailorman said:
Just a thought, perhaps the OP has adopted the totally wrong start up procedure these past 10 years :encouragement:
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Entirely possible, but whatever his start up procedure, it has worked well, as he described in post #1. If it no longer works, then something has changed/deteriorated/broken etc.

Unless of course he's been using the correct procedure for 10 years and has suddenly forgotten what is and no longer applying some throttle, in which case your advise is spot on :encouragement:
 
awol said:
Takes longer (do the wires have to be removed before a socket can be used?) so more billable time?
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Seriously ?

The wires have to be removed whichever way it's done. If i was on site i would test in situ, i know how to do it, the OP doesn't.

What's with the snide billable time remark ? No-one here is getting billed, i'm offering some practical advice, based on over 40 years of experience of working with engines, no charges involved. Same as all of the help i give by PM, often including my contact details, no charges. Same as all of the offers i've made to local owners to take a quick look at something when i'm in the area, no charges.

I often wonder why i bother. The last time this subject came up i explained how to do it easily in situ, a different bunch of super smart amateurs said that was the wrong way to do it.
 
sailorman said:
Removing the glo plugs can sometimes be difficult, with dire consequences, ie stripping the thread for one. do the simple checks first.
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Let's hope he hasn't got any failed glow plugs then, he might need to buy a new engine.

The simple checks first involve checking the glow plugs, first. Not fiddling with the throttle.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Seriously ?

The wires have to be removed whichever way it's done. If i was on site i would test in situ, i know how to do it, the OP doesn't.

What's with the snide billable time remark ? No-one here is getting billed, i'm offering some practical advice, based on over 40 years of experience of working with engines, no charges involved. Same as all of the help i give by PM, often including my contact details, no charges. Same as all of the offers i've made to local owners to take a quick look at something when i'm in the area, no charges.

I often wonder why i bother. The last time this subject came up i explained how to do it easily in situ, a different bunch of super smart amateurs said that was the wrong way to do it.
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Calm down Dear, calm down
 
VicS said:
I agree ,

Open the throttle a little ( 1/3 ITYWF the manual says .... RTM!)

If its not cranking normally check the battery state of charge and the connections etc, incl the negative

If it is cranking normally check that the glowplugs are being energised ... no relay AFAIK

If not investigate the reason ... Ignition switch ?????

If they are disconnect the wiring and check each one for continuity (a head light bulb on a couple of leads from battery positive to each in turn should light )
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My engine is BMC and takes forever to start. Believing that information is power, I wired a micro-ammeter across the supply lead to the glow plugs (i.e. from leaving the relay to the first plug). The small voltage drop across that wire results, fortuitously, in FSD for all plugs drawing current (and proportionately less for fewer).

It's been a godsend.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I hope we have feedback on this. What the problem was. I'd ring beta marine if it were me. BTW if one plug is defective, replace all three/two.
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I am not suggesting its not good advice, but why.

One of my cars used to eat glowplugs, I never found out why, (I even changed the control relay, to no avail, because I thought they stayed on too long) Knowing what I know now Id say I was fitting the wrong type but I usually bought them from the main agent.

Usually I just changed the failed plug but once changed all four. The three good ones went on the shelf and overtime were recycled. I never found any convincing reason to change the whole set.
 
VicS said:
I am not suggesting its not good advice, but why.

One of my cars used to eat glowplugs, I never found out why, (I even changed the control relay, to no avail, because I thought they stayed on too long) Knowing what I know now Id say I was fitting the wrong type but I usually bought them from the main agent.

Usually I just changed the failed plug but once changed all four. The three good ones went on the shelf and overtime were recycled. I never found any convincing reason to change the whole set.
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There is often one that is hard to get at in a car engine
 
skipper_stu said:
Disagree there Vic, checking them by meter can be iffy, pull them and look at them glowing is what I have found best!
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I dont use a meter (I guess you mean a multimeter on an ohms range), although if I had a clamp type ammeter Id probably use that to check them without even removing the wiring.
Removing the wiring can be a bit of a fiddle!

Ive always known that I am looking for a failed glowplug. Checking as I suggest with a bulb on a couple of wires confirms and identifies the dud one.

You can often tell a dud one when you remove them.... its the one with a build up of carbon on it !
 
It doesn't take much of a drop in revs from the starter before it is reluctant to start.

It would be well worth a look at the batteries, and the -ve connection onto the engine block.
 
i have the same engine and the same problem , worked fine all last summer but last winter took two or three attempts to get it started .checked g plugs and were working . still not sure what caused it but again all this summer started first go both with and without throttle . i am going to dismantle the fuel line to check for any small air leaks or possible causes between the fuel tank and lift pump. at this stage there is nothing obvious ie: fuel leaks from any point .
 
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