Best Wood 'Glue'

[alant]

Best Wood \'Glue\'

Whats the best wood glue to use, to repair a split in a wooden boat, on a section upon which the the bow fairlead is fitted?

This is the fairlead through which a bowspring is almost always used when mooring alongside, enabling the stern to be kicked into the pontoon.

Fairly heavy boat, so repair needs to take some stick, not simply cosmetic.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

G'day Alant,

If the finished repair is to be painted I would use an epoxy resin with Micro Fibres mixed in after the hardener has been added, add fibres till the mix is lick thick toothpaste, apply to both sides of the timber joint.

Do not clamp to the point they only a very thin layer remains, this will weaken the joint, a couple of mm or more is fine, wipe off any excess when still uncured because it's a pig to sand after curing.

The resulting joint will be stronger than the timber, try a test piece and break it, I bet the timber breaks and not the glued joint.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[Grajan]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

Without seeing the damage it is difficult to comment however
A make shift repair would involve washing out the split with fresh water to remove any salt, drying out the split with a hair dryer fill with Epoxy glue and using some additional fastenings,screw the timber back together, might not be the prettiest repair but should keep you sailing until the damage can be repaired properly

 

[johnb2]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

Titebond III is an excellent waterproof wood glue. I've no experience of using it in a marine environment. Maybe someone else has and can help.

JB

 

[johnb2]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

A bit of research shows Humbrol Extraphen as a good product for marine woodwork. No experience at all of this myself but others may. (Apols for extra post)

JB /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[rogerthebodger]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

We have available a polyurethane waterproof wood glue

When I started to use it I tested by soaking it in sea water for a week. Then I boiled it in a bucket to an hour or so . The after it cooled I tried to break the joint but the wood broke.

The wood was Iroko.

have a look here

Don't know if its available in the UK but must be something simular

 

[fluffc]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

[ QUOTE ]
This is the fairlead through which a bowspring is almost always used when mooring alongside, enabling the stern to be kicked into the pontoon.

[/ QUOTE ]

The clue is in the name - FAIR LEAD. These lumps of metal are to <u>assist</u> in providing a fair lead to a line (and to protect the deck edge). They are not 'designed' to put a serious turn on a piece of rope.

Your bow spring needs to be led from a strong point, and in as straight a line as possible, to the pontton cleat. Logically, the appropriate fairlead would be located much further back than the bow.

 

[Drascomber]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

IMHO by far the best wood glue for boats is "Aerodux".

Difficult to find in small quantities but you can get it on the web from Severn Valley Sailplanes here. They call it Prefere 750/405M

http://www.svsp.co.uk/Shop%20Website/pages/wood_repair_materials.htm

I reckon it has better adhesion than epoxy, doesn't have to be laid on so thick, has a longer open time and is nearly indestructable. Dries with a dark glue line. Brilliant for laminating.

 

[johnb2]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

Titebond also do a Polyurethane. You'll find info at http://www.axminster.co.uk/

JB

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

I used to use Cascophen, a recorcinol adhesive, which consisted of a purple syrup to which one added powdered hardener at a ratio of 1:5. This was terrific stuff and I have used it for deepening keels and building entire rudders in iroko (no other fastening) among other projects.
Unfortunately It is no longer available locally and so I now use an epoxy resin, similar to what Oldsaltoz suggested although personally, I prefer the consistency of yoghurt rather than that of toothpaste. (He probably knows more about it because I understand that he earns (earned?) a living from building boats). The mixing is 2 to 1 and it is very important to get it exactly right; if you don't, you risk it not setting at all. Not forgiving like Cascophen.
One other thing to watch out for is to use a <u>flat</u> thing to stir up the mixture, paying extra care to reach all the corners of the container. Believe me, it does make a difference!
Have a sticky time! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[pappaecho]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

Repaired a dinghy rudder in 1966 with Aerodux. Still working!

 

[alant]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

"The clue is in the name - FAIR LEAD. These lumps of metal are to assist in providing a fair lead to a line (and to protect the deck edge). They are not 'designed' to put a serious turn on a piece of rope.

Your bow spring needs to be led from a strong point, and in as straight a line as possible, to the pontton cleat. Logically, the appropriate fairlead would be located much further back than the bow."

The 'fairlead' is used in this instance, to take a line from a pontoon cleat/bollard through the fairlead and onto a strongpoint & needed to spring the stern on mooring.

Taking it through any fairlead "further back" as you put it, is not possible. The 'boat' involved, is 80 tons & the failure occured simply because an old crack opened up further under strain.

 

[Strathglass]

Re: Best Wood \'Glue\'

There is no such thing as a 'best' wood glue but for your specific task it sounds that the glue you require is both gap filling and is required to handle a fair degree of strain.

In my opinion, for your job there would be no substitute for (as Old Salt has sugested) epoxy resin. (do not overclamp).

I would use a coloidal silica and microfibres mix but once this is set it will take some sanding, however it will be very strong.

A B&D power file is quite good at shaping it when set.

When finished either paint or overcoat with a UV resistant varnish.

I find myself using D4 polyurethene glue more those days (for many tasks) and also D4 pink glue when laminating.

Adhesives are improving all the time but I still prefer epoxy for any structural items.

Iain