Best treatment for external woodwork?

Pauly

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Having just become the latest owner of a slightly neglected boat I was wondering what would be the best treatment for the external woodwork, rubbing strip, handrails, cabin door etc? My first thought would have been good old yacht varnish, but I think the wood has bleached out enough to make that a dubious choice. So what else is there? Obviously something with a bit of pigment at least, and equal to the rigors of life on the ocean wave...obviously. Or would the varnish suffice? I must admit I have had good results on some jaded aircraft parts with the application of clear lacquer restoring some of the former colour.
What do you lot think?
 

PhillM

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Find a small spot and try giving it a sand with 80 grit, then 120, then 240. A quick pre-test is to lick the sanded wood. If you get colour then crack on and varnish.
 

Poecheng

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Varnish the bits that must be varnished - but understand you will have to keep doing it.

The weathered bits - assuming they are ok looking weathered but need a clean - wash off the worst and then use Borocol. Its like water and after two weeks the dirt goes and you end up with the silvered appearance. It maintains that appearance for a long time and, when you need to, it is painting on "water" and as easy as it gets.
Check the HR site - thats what they recommend for their teak decks
Good luck.
 

Tranona

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Rub it down with 120 grit, wash with Oxalid Acid solution to clean it and reduce some of the unevenness in colour, wash well with plain water, then white spirit. 3 coats of International Woodskin and forget about it for a few years, but keep the tin handy to touch up any serious scrapes.
 

robmcg

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Woodskin looks great when its first applied but has all the longevity of a loaf of homemade bread. The Starbrite stuff doesn't change the colour as much either. You can get it in classic teak which is darker or natural which isnt. Lasts much longer than woodskin but has a matt finish which helps retain grip.
 

Tranona

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Woodskin looks great when its first applied but has all the longevity of a loaf of homemade bread.

What evidence do you have to support that as that is not the experience of the long term tests of the product and its predecessor, Cetol - nor of other users.
 

robmcg

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Tried woodskin on our bowsprit - twice! It's a low traffic area and lasted maybe three or four months before looking shocking. I have anecdotal feedback from others in our yard that it requires regular topping up to maintain any kind of finish = extra work. That's why I reverted to Tropical Teak oil and sealer which lasts the whole season and is much lower maintenance.
 

Tranona

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Can't argue with your experience - just different from my experience of this type of product over the last 15 years or so and the published long term tests in PBO and Classic Boat.
 

robmcg

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Can't argue with your experience - just different from my experience of this type of product over the last 15 years or so and the published long term tests in PBO and Classic Boat.

I wish I could get the stuff to work but it didn't - maybe it's me! I do know some people swear by the stuff. There is a guy in our yard with a Cornish Crabber or Yawl that uses it on his mast and he seems happy with it. They do say its all in the preparation!!
 

PhillM

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Here we go again, I'm an epifanes man. However, I have just gone over to Rapid Clear because the drying time is much shorter, meaning I can varnish later into the season without worrying about blooming.

http://www.epifanes.com/page/rapid-clear

I'm told LeTonkinis is as good / better / rubbish - depending on who you talk to. Varnish is as touchy subject on here as choice of anchor!
 

NOHOH

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Yes..... Here we go again......COELAN is the only thing that is not only durable but looks fabulous. I have some bits that I treated 14 years ago that still look good........but none of it has ever lasted less than 7 years.

Its expensive....and slightly `fiddly` to apply.....but you only ever do the preparation once (I hate sanding)...

..When its time to renew......score it lightly with a Stanley knife.....and peel it off in sheets and re-apply...((they do pigmented primers).......You end up paying the same as about 7 years worth of coats of varnish but only do the work once.........Just Google it
 

philiphurst

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Here we go again, I'm an epifanes man. However, I have just gone over to Rapid Clear because the drying time is much shorter, meaning I can varnish later into the season without worrying about blooming.

http://www.epifanes.com/page/rapid-clear

I'm told LeTonkinis is as good / better / rubbish - depending on who you talk to. Varnish is as touchy subject on here as choice of anchor!

Another vote for Rapidclear. The best results so far for me have been with seven coats of Rapidclear finished off with four coats of Epifanes gloss varnish. Looks fab and remains adhered to the teak.

Another classic owner in the same yard uses Le Tonk and swears by it. Personally, I don't like the finish but it is clearly an excellent product that lasts well.

Each to their own, I guess, but always useful to hear the views and experiences of others.
 

single

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This subject often comes up and after years of testing all the suggestions i would suggest Sikkens Cetol filter7 plus. There is a place on Ebay that sells damaged tins at about half price. Sikkens is the only thing that has stayed looking new for more than 3 years now.
 
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