Best "Loctite" for anchor shackle

[[2574]]

I have a blind pin in my anchor connecting shackle (to allow easy passage through the roller) so need to apply some Loctite of some sort to doubly secure the pin. I'd be grateful for recommendations. It is a Petersen stainless shackle.

Thanks

Rob

 

[dom]

Blue (medium strength) would almost certainly be fine, but "almost" isn't good enough in critical applications. So I'd recommend the high strength red, especially as I can't imagine you'll be too worried about applying the necessary heat when it comes to removal. Be interested to see other responses.

 

[Halo]

Blue (medium strength) would almost certainly be fine, but "almost" isn't good enough in critical applications. So I'd recommend the high strength red, especially as I can't imagine you'll be too worried about applying the necessary heat when it comes to removal. Be interested to see other responses.

I think just tightening it and fixing with a wire or cable tie is enough. If you need to undo the shackle you may not want to be on the bow waving a blow torch around to soften red loctite at the time.

 

[Kelpie]

I think just tightening it and fixing with a wire or cable tie is enough. If you need to undo the shackle you may not want to be on the bow waving a blow torch around to soften red loctite at the time.

I don't think that's an option for the OP- assuming a blind pin is the same thing as a flush pin.

 

[fisherman]

The thing that seems to lock threads when you don't want to is Sikaflex. Would that be reliable?

 

[Neeves]

Red Loctite, any of those that require heat to disengage.

If you are in the least bit worried, simply buy the bottle of Loctite, small though it is - it will last a lifetime - secure the pin (with the Loctite) then try to disengage after 48 hours. I've been using 609 for years now (but there are a host of others - just find one locally) and have had no problems. You can buy little blow torches as a development of cigarette lighters, just keep one handy (you can use it next time you make Creme Brulee

If its of any value - many of these Loctites set in the absence of air, anerobic, and will set if applied wet and underwater.

Jonathan

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I have Wichard flush-pin shackle on my anchor. I used the threadlock fluid that I had available on the boat. It is a green coloured thickish liquid that is called "Saratoga" made in Italy and that I had bought for when I was installing the hose barb nipples on a Racor fuel filter. I think that any threadlock would be fine for the purpose, especially since you would also be using a hex-key to tighten the pin.

 

[TQA]

Stainless shackle? Do you have a stainless anchor and stainless chain?

If you are using a stainless shackle between a galvanized anchor and galvanized chain I am pretty sure that is not the optimum choice.

 

[Quandary]

Stainless shackle? Do you have a stainless anchor and stainless chain?

If you are using a stainless shackle between a galvanized anchor and galvanized chain I am pretty sure that is not the optimum choice.

If he is anchoring for weeks at a time I might share your concern but for occasional immersion what is the problem? a 'Hi- Mod' stainless 11mm. pin shackle has an MBL of 4800 kg, most of the galvanised shackles you buy these days start rusting the first time they get wet.

 

[macd]

If he is anchoring for weeks at a time I might share your concern but for occasional immersion what is the problem? a 'Hi- Mod' stainless 11mm. pin shackle has an MBL of 4800 kg, most of the galvanised shackles you buy these days start rusting the first time they get wet.

+1
This has been done to death, including a thread this week.

Any galvanic action between the galvanised components and the SS is glacially slow. True, I wouldn't use such disimilar metals on a mooring, but on an anchor shackle which gets a good look-see everytime it comes up, no problem. I'm always prepared to chop of the nearest couple of links to the shackle if there's any appearance of corrosion. In ten years spent mostly on the hook, I haven't had to do so yet.

But why take my very ordinary word for it?: Vyv Cox has repeatedly expressed the same view.

 

[[2574]]

I don't think that's an option for the OP- assuming a blind pin is the same thing as a flush pin.

Yes I dont have the option of monel wire through the pin - see below:

Yes as you can see it is a SS shackle atwixt galvanised shank and chain but I'm not over worried about galvanic action; I don't anchor for weeks at a time.

Thanks for the responses gents; sounds like Loctite Red is the way to go.

 

[vyv_cox]

I use Loctite 242. It is described as a medium strength thread lock, so doesn'tneed Jonathan's blowlamp to release. Before I used it I tested its undoing torque, which was the same as the tightening torque. I have used it for several years now, at each end of season it takes a good heave to release my countersunk pin.

Once again, stainless shackles and swivels in galvanised chain and anchor are no problem. I often anchor for a week at a time and mostly anchor for 5-6 months of the year. The only galvanic reaction is that after about five years the final few chain links have lost their zinc.

 

[Neeves]

Robih,

I think you have an elegant and safe solution to your various issues. Certificated chain and shackle (which is better than anyone else here). Oversized link that appears to be much stronger then both chain and shackle. Everything is supplied by totally reliable and reputable manufacturers. Shackle and over sized link should run through the narrow bow roller. You can either use blue Loctite if you are going to change the anchor frequently or red if its a lifetime assembly.

Its all comfortably, reliable and you have a bullet proof rode.

In five years time I, for one, will be interested in your reasoned summary of performance.

Sleep well at anchor.

Jonathan

 

[TQA]

As I spend about 350 nights on the hook I worry about dissimilar metals. I have seen the outcome of mousing a shackle with stainless.

I agree that if it is just the odd night then pani problem.

 

[Neeves]

If you can mouse then another option is quality cable ties - but then you need to have a clevis pin with a head and you need to religiously renew the cable tie before it fails - and this latter is less likely. So with conventional shackles and clevis pin with a head - do both, seize and use Loctite. For Rob's case - he does not have that option.

It is a great pity that we cannot source rated bow shackles with a flush fit clevis pin (though maybe even a bow shackle is too wide for Rob's bow roller.)

Its all a compromise.

Jonathan

 

[fisherman]

As I spend about 350 nights on the hook I worry about dissimilar metals. I have seen the outcome of mousing a shackle with stainless.

I moused the shackles on my occasional use fore and aft mooring, very large ones ex WD high quality, with morse 33c cable core. Not something you would want to handle much. Three years on (I lift it every spring) no sign of trouble. What was your outcome? What size wire?

 

[TQA]

I moused the shackles on my occasional use fore and aft mooring, very large ones ex WD high quality, with morse 33c cable core. Not something you would want to handle much. Three years on (I lift it every spring) no sign of trouble. What was your outcome? What size wire?

It was on my previous steel boat. I was anchoring most nights. My set up was about a year old and I noticed some movement one day when I lifted the anchor. On inspection I found that the threads had gone and I could pull the pin right out.

 

[fisherman]

It was on my previous steel boat. I was anchoring most nights. My set up was about a year old and I noticed some movement one day when I lifted the anchor. On inspection I found that the threads had gone and I could pull the pin right out.

So you had moused it with stainless, which disappeared?

 

[Neil_Y]

Araldite is what we recommend for under water bolt security, it can be softened with heat when you need to dismantle.
We use it for rope cutters that are subject to shock and vibration and bearings.

 

[[2574]]

Araldite is what we recommend for under water bolt security, it can be softened with heat when you need to dismantle.
We use it for rope cutters that are subject to shock and vibration and bearings.

Interesting, just plain Araldite? Nice lo-tech and cost effective solution. Have you used the technique over a few years without issue? Any idea how it compares in strength with the specialist thread locking products?

Rob