Best Glue For Wood

[DownWest]

PU uses many ways to cure :

Moisture in the air ..... slow and least expansion .... clamped together.

It cures very well with the moisture on your skin Hence the gloves..

 

[Old Harry]

It cures very well with the moisture on your skin Hence the gloves..

and picks up dirt before it fully cures

 

[Refueler]

It cures very well with the moisture on your skin Hence the gloves..

Never worn the gloves with it .... nail polish remover dissolves it .... soap and water removes it.

 

[Refueler]

and picks up dirt before it fully cures

Now don't get all silly ... just because you don't like PU glue ...

If thats a problem - you will have that with any glue while its setting. Its very simple to prevent any glue from getting dirt / crud ... cover with tape or clingfilm ...

 

[jamie N]

.... nail polish remover dissolves it ....

Favourite shade??

 

[Refueler]

Favourite shade??

Remover is clear ..... darling !

 

[DownWest]

You two should find a room and stick together..

 

[Old Harry]

You two should find a room and stick together..

Mebe they could have a mardle around the glue pot

 

[lw395]

For mending large bits of outdoor woodwork, I'd use an exterior PVA glue.
Much more sensible cost for big jobs.
The 'Instant Nails' stuff from Toolstation is also very useful and cost effective, despite bearing no resemblance to either 'instant' or 'nails'.

Mending a gate is different from building a Merlin Rocket.

 

[Refueler]

I always find it interesting that you can have a glue that is stronger than the material it is joining - but the repair often fails before the material ......

On a Gate or similar - I would usually look at inserting a bridging piece or dowel across the joint to increase the strength of joint. You see many people make the mistake of screwing metal plates ... but they soon fail and are loose. Better a wood dowel inside the joint - which not only gives mechanical strength but also increases glued area into the good material.

 

[C08]

Yes I had planned to dowel as well. Having great difficulty finding 100mm x50mm,it seems industry standard 4x2 ia about 95mm x45mm planed, even sawn timber is not normally actually 100x50. I will probably have to have a bigger section planed down...at a cost.

 

[Old Harry]

Yes I had planned to dowel as well. Having great difficulty finding 100mm x50mm,it seems industry standard 4x2 ia about 95mm x45mm planed, even sawn timber is not normally actually 100x50. I will probably have to have a bigger section planed down...at a cost.

All timber is nominal sawn dims, 6mm is remover to plane it to PAR

 

[DownWest]

Yes I had planned to dowel as well. Having great difficulty finding 100mm x50mm,it seems industry standard 4x2 ia about 95mm x45mm planed, even sawn timber is not normally actually 100x50. I will probably have to have a bigger section planed down...at a cost.

An electric planer is peanuts at B&Q, then can be used to assult wood later on. Far cheaper than asking for it to be done.

 

[knuterikt]

Best would be rescorcinol, but needs close glue lines and good clamping pressures, + above 10°C while going off.

I have a boat built 1960 using this glue. The glue is not holding anything tougher any more. Same problem with all the boats built at the same time.

 

[C08]

I have my dowels, Titebond but still no wood. Still a full time job trying to get a food delivery