Beneteau skin fittings

jwilson said:
Did similar job last year, used http://www.seaware.co.uk/Products/BRZ-BALL-VALVE--plus--SS-HANDLE--1-14__10981.aspx as have seen perfectly good DZR fittings with corroded handles - these have S/S handles. More expensive than DZR but I hope never to have to replace again.
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The valve in your link is very short of technical details. Many bronze balves have been found to have brass balls and stem fittings, and 'bronze' means different things to different people. I would ask to see a full description before spending that much.
 
yes david 2008 bene 9 with d4 changed at five years 600 hrs good as the new one, next time should be easy you may not have room for impact wrench.
 
mrplastic said:
Although I never used it I came across what seems a great tip for removing the skin fittings. It simply consisted of forcing a wooden bung in the outside opening, drilling a hole in the centre of the bung and then using a decent and correctly sized holesaw to cut through the skin fitting back to the thread so the fitting can simply be pulled out of the hull. Anyone tried it?
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I had to do that to remove an old transducer fitting, but it would be hard to do on a brass or bronze skin fitting. Careful work with a cutting disc in an angle grinder is the best way to deal with a metal fitting that wont otherwise come out.
 
Norman_E said:
I had to do that to remove an old transducer fitting, but it would be hard to do on a brass or bronze skin fitting. Careful work with a cutting disc in an angle grinder is the best way to deal with a metal fitting that wont otherwise come out.
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+1

I used a grinding disc, the edge of the disc at 90 degrees to the hull so it countersunk the hole, less chance of it skidding off onto the gel coat. When fitting the new skin fitting, a box spanner can often work if space is too tight to swing a spanner or adjustable wrench.
 
We replaced the three (yes three!) below waterline sink seacocks with drains that run to 2 inches above the waterline. No corrosion issues, an inline ball valve incase we heel over a lot (other Colvic Watson owners can be heard laughing - CW's don't heel) and now we have three less holes in the boat. The fittings are Blakes 1977 vintage and no sign on the three taken out of any problems, in fact they had huge problems getting them out and had to angle grind them off inside. It's shocking that the OP's boat is so new and the fittings such poor quality.
 
Lazy Kipper said:
We replaced the three (yes three!) below waterline sink seacocks with drains that run to 2 inches above the waterline. No corrosion issues, an in-line ball valve in case we heel over a lot (other Colvic Watson owners can be heard laughing - CW's don't heel) and now we have three less holes in the boat. The fittings are Blakes 1977 vintage and no sign on the three taken out of any problems, in fact they had huge problems getting them out and had to angle grind them off inside. It's shocking that the OP's boat is so new and the fittings such poor quality.
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Sadly a sign of the times in this throwaway society. cost cutting eventually cuts quality
 
Acowden said:
Can anyone provide or point me to the dimensions of these through hull fittings and associated stopcock valves?
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Welcome to the forum.

First thing - it is better to start a new thread asking exactly what you want to know, rather than tagging onto an 8 year old thread that wandered all over the place.

Beneteau use standard size ball valves. The toilet inlet are 3/4" BSP and the outlet 1 1/2" BSP. Engine inlets on smaller sized engines are 3/4"BSP and other outlets such as sink and shower drains are also usually 3/4". You have a choice of metal which are fitted as standard or non metallic composite.

Hope this helps.
 
G
mrplastic said:
Although I never used it I came across what seems a great tip for removing the skin fittings. It simply consisted of forcing a wooden bung in the outside opening, drilling a hole in the centre of the bung and then using a decent and correctly sized holesaw to cut through the skin fitting back to the thread so the fitting can simply be pulled out of the hull. Anyone tried it?
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grinding out the inside edge of a skin fitting around the hole is the easy way of removing them .
Once three parts through lever the lip offthen just push them out .
Takes about two mins
 
sailaboutvic said:
G

grinding out the inside edge of a skin fitting around the hole is the easy way of removing them .
Once three parts through lever the lip offthen just push them out .
Takes about two mins
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I have changed a lot skin fittings and always used this method, but earlier this week I tried the bung/holesaw method. It worked really well on the 3/4 fittings. The 1 1/4 fitting took more time, perhaps because the saw was dull. Less dust around and less chance to cut into the gelcoat. One benefit of this method is that it generates less heat.
For the first fitting I used the grinder, and forgot that the valve open and the hose was off :rolleyes:.

This was on a Beneteau Oceanis 423, and the size of the skin fittings for the head out is 1 1/4
 
lustyd said:
What on earth do you do with 6 of them? I came up with:

heads
heads sink
galley sink
engine intake

I'm assuming on a 331 you only have a single heads, and any cockpit drains ought to be above waterline on that size AWB? Your wording implies that there may be a load more non metal or above waterline holes too and my (small boat) brain can't work out what all these holes do!
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Post deleted.
 
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mrplastic said:
Although I never used it I came across what seems a great tip for removing the skin fittings. It simply consisted of forcing a wooden bung in the outside opening, drilling a hole in the centre of the bung and then using a decent and correctly sized holesaw to cut through the skin fitting back to the thread so the fitting can simply be pulled out of the hull. Anyone tried it?
Click to expand...
That's far too complicated, I just use an angle grinder.
 
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