Beneteau 350 Oceanis project

[gary111160]

This a new Forum for me after taking the move from power to sail and buying a tired Beneteau 350 Oceanis from 1986.

I also have a Hurley 22 bought first to see if I enjoyed sailing as much as motor boating...and I do!

Any other Beneteau owners on here? I have a couple of queries that someone's previous knowledge may help me.

Firstly, all the wood veneer down below is watermarked and blotchy so I'm uncertain how to improve the look without re-veneering throughout. I'm aware how thin the veneer is having hand sanded a test area the darker water marks remain so re-varnishing is still going to allow it to show through. Any ideas?

The other problem is a slight leak from one of the 4/5 wrap around windows that go over the cabin roof. It looks as if they were just bonded to the deck when new and I assume would break if I try and remove them to replace or rebond Any one done this work or had a similar problem. I was wondering if I gouge out as much of the existing bonding material from where its leaking on the inside and out as I can and squeeze in fresh new sealant would that do the trick? What is the correct sealant?

Thanks for your comments, all responses gratefully received.

Gary

 

[30boat]

Those curved windows are tricky.In your place I would go all the way and remove them instead of patching up the sealant.There are very good sealants these days that will probably do a better job than the ones used by Beneteau when they built the boat.

 

[Tranona]

Very difficult to remove staining from the typical thin interior veneers. Suggest you use a chemical stripper or a hot air gun first to remove the old finish and then bleach or maybe oxalid acid to try and lift the stain out. You may need to experiment a bit in places where it won't notice to find something that works. Alternatively paint the damaged panels - I assume bulkheads and coachroof sides - white and varnish the trim. changes the overall feel but can look good.

 

[gary111160]

Thanks for comments, Pretty much the route I though would be required. Some one in the past has painted some white panels that line a section of the hull in white and it looks terrible so I'm a little wary of painting the rest white.

 

[Donheist]

I have an Oceania 390 - same Windows. Mine leaked so I re-did them this summer. (Actually my very experienced friend did them, I watched and learned). The results have been leakproof so far.

Method: 1 - clean out the old sealant. The gap is around 3/4 inch across and deep. (That is the problem- if you just fill that gap the sealant in the middle never cures. That is why the leaks came through black: the rain picked up the uncured
Sika

2 - mask the area to be sealed carefully with good masking tape and consider covering the grp beyond - it is easy to get sika on the nonslip deck and very hard to get off. Ask me how I know this

3 - put in sika to fill the gap up to halfway and leave overnight to cure (maybe longer if you have the weather or can cover)

4 - put in sika to flush

5 - smooth sika - gloved finger best tool for the job.

Absolutely not a millimetre has come thru and I have used a pressure washer on the deck.

I was convinced I'd have to remove and maybe replace the Windows but thankfully not.

Before removing or replacing I'd try this. Worst case it costs you a tube and a half of sika and maybe a day's work.

My next job is to tackle the crazing with wet and dry paper to complete the topside cosmetic work.

Good luck.

 

[Donheist]

Ps I can't remember which type of sika flex but will check next time I go to the boat but a good chandler will know or look it up - that's how we got the right one. As for downstairs - can't help I'm afraid, my veneers are serviceable. But one thing that did improve life was chipping off the bit that lines the Windows - it's like the tape they use to face the edges of chipboard furniture. I sanded it back and then painted white. Really brightened up the interior.

 

[Pcd]

+1 for strip bleach and oxalic. I've had good results with oxygen bleach/sodium percarbonate. Google sodium percarbonate mildew for guidance
.

 

[gary111160]

Thanks again for the feed back.

Donheist when you say 3/4 inch across are you referring to the gap between the window sections? I think I have leaks from around the edge where the windows sit on the coachroof. What did you use to gouge out the old sealant?

 

[Donheist]

The gap is widest where the Windows meet the grp, particularly as the Windows wrap down towards the side decks. That's where we had our leaks too. Between the panes its perhaps 10mm but still quite deep. To gouge it out- I think we used a Stanley knife to cut the sealant close to the edges and then an old screwdriver to get the majority out. Lastly I think I went round with just a Stanley knife blade gently taking off the last residue with a spray adhesive remover to help with the stubborn bits.

 

[Otter]

Don't discount painting the veneer with a good quality interior acrylic paint, maybe better on older and classic yachts but a much easier solution to the problem.

 

[30boat]

If I were in your place I would remove the windows and all the sealant ,apply a thick bead of epoxy putty around the perimeter and offer the windows up so that the putty once slightly compressed would form a new mating surface that would perfectly conform to the shape of the windows. To stop the epoxy from sticking ,the window would be lined with parcel tape.